Marmoot

If she has a twin, time to try the other one.

Looks like FMIC and suspension job. Congrats. It looks nice. Welcome to the glorious and joyful headache of owning a TT.

Nice celicas

Jap spec front calipers are 2 pistons (not 4) aren't they? Btw, confirmed it looks like a crack

Your issue sounds similar to mine. With mine, there was no overheating at low power, even when I was stuck in traffic jam for 20 minutes. As soon as I apply power (open the throttle more than 20%ish) the temperature gauge starts creeping up. If I stop applying power the temp gauge stays, but as soon as I apply power again it starts moving up, etc. Turned out to be a micro crack within the head (or in your case it is possible to be a minor BHG too) which was too small for "low" combustion pressure to push through but allowed "medium to high" pressure to seep through. This heated up the coolant and resulted in boiling/overheating.

More or less. I emailed the guy, paid by Paypal, and the thing turned up on my doorstep in reasonable time.

Sent you a PM. I don't mind having a look and compare it to my supra to see if we can figure out something.

Finally got my SAFC Neo and dyno tune session. Started off with 260 and ended up at 280 (on the axle) after a little tune by the Master [Nissan] Guru -san. I was nodding "oh OK that's cool" (thinking my NA-TT is off a Jspec Aristo) until he said it was kW not bhp. Stoked! At 1 bar boost; must've been the straight steel exhaust. I wonder how long the stock turbo would last. Lucky I have a spare pair in the garage. On the upside (well there's no downside, really) the car feels smoother on normal drive. Definitely a great NZ$1k spend (err, that's about 400 pounds to you brits).

I remember I had that before. Turned out the boost gauge had gone to the crapper. Supdawg, you don't happen to have one of those $20 TradeMe/eBay boost gauge do you?

Hey Sup_Dawg. Whereabouts in NZ? I'm in Auckland. Should meet up sometime. IMHO for stock it'd be hard to even get into boost on 1st gear. Stick it on 2nd or 3rd and go up a hill somewhere. Otherwise, perhaps a boost leak?

I am ashamed to admit, but I am sometimes too lazy for a Supra Just scuffed the surface lightly to make sure there's no leftover glue lumps from the stick-on vinyl the previous owner put on. It's not self adhesive. It's a fabric. I could've made a pair of bras out of it but my wife didn't think it's a good idea. Basically, you spray 3M spraycan glue on the flat surface and use rubber roller to flatten it. Once it grips on a good flat surface then comes the time to contour it to the tricky concave surfaces. Superglue would help alot here, as the 3M had difficulty in gripping the fabric when it's stretched. On the other hand, convex surfaces would be much easier. Overall I used about 1yd or even less. But I still have the centre console and the powerwindow panel on the driver's door to do (bugger if I know how to remove this one). Got a praise from a Japanese Nismo mechanic yesterday. It means a lot P.S. Yes the area around keyhole is a separate piece. Just wrap the main sheet around it and cut a circular hole around the perimeter using a good hobby knife. Then cut a (approx) 14-16 cm circular piece and use it to wrap around the keyhole mound, starting with the longest side. You'll want to make some sort of conical shape. Once it grips on a section, it's a matter of slowly working your way around the mound. Some cutting and loud swearing may be necessary.

WIN! Off goes the vinyl stickers to the Failbox! P.S. Be careful when using superglue for the tricky bits. Superglue is great to make sure the fabric stays on the surface, especially on concave parts. But some brands actually partially melt the "CF" overlay, resulting in wrinkled finish on the affected areas. Some other brands work OK. Not sure how to choose which one that works and that doesn't. Trial and error I suppose.

Say if Supra's displacement is 3000 with 6cyls, then each cylinder is roughly 500 cubic centimetres. If you're designing a stroker kit with 10cm stroke, then your piston area would 500/10 = 50sq.cm. With pi*r*r = 50sq.cm, the radius of your piston would be the square root of 50/pi. If you don't have square root function, the next logical step would be to make your piston rectangular the size of 50x1 cm to get it to 50 sq.cm, but 50cm per piston would make the engine too long since it would make the 2JZ a 3m engine.

Kiss Me - Sixpence none the richer

Both hands on bodykits so they don't fall off

What happened to the roof? It has a slight red tint?

Camouflage pattern with brown beige and olive drab. But for Supra, it'd be either silver or white. A big pain waxing the white though. It's hard to spot the wax.

Rosso Corsa with black window tint.

AHAHAHAHAHAAH! I love your signature.

I don't know...I quite like the tall side trim/wall (or whatchacallit?) where the doors' bottoms meet the body.

I've always wanted one since I saw 3 black supras they used for Highway Patrol squad back where I came from (Indonesia) in 1995. Couldn't afford it back then. Bought a white 96 SZR in 2003 and kept it standard till Feb this year, when I bought a NA-TT SZ to tidy up. Just finished spending $10k (about the price of an old SZ standard) fixing the motor and it's now going well. A bit on the expensive side, but took it on a B road thrash last weekend and boy $10k suddenly feels cheap (and that's with a standard boost)

yeah, might be putting a resonator next week just to quieten it a bit even more and to prevent boost creep. But anyhow, 1.5 bar would be awesome, wouldn't it?

I just got my car fixed. My FMIC was mounted at a slight angle by the previous owner (very slight. You can only see it from the side if you take the bumper off) and because of this not even the mighty standard fan can cope. Also, we discovered that the cylinder head was either porous or has micro cracks which can't be seen by 2 engine reconditioners. We replaced the head gasket (first diagnosis) but it didn't help. Ended up getting used head. Problem solved.

I'm with him. My TT has this straight (and I mean "straight"!) steel pipe from downpipe to the muffler at the back when I bought it. It's still quieter than my N/A. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but turbo cars are generally quieter as the turbos act as dampers? Btw, is it true not having cat/resonator/etc may cause dangerous boost creep? I'm a bit worried

Which one of you did this beautiful thing?