pedrosixfour

The spoiler makes it. The end result is a credit to you Ben.

I have the rear part of that unit, the piece with the indicator and wiper stalks, in perfect working order. The small unit with the yellow stickers is not with it.

How old is it now? Y'know, in human years.

Alarm/immobiliser been checked and passed as working properly?

Looking at the wheel and the brakes, she's either a Cobwebbi or a Nevastop.

Mine would be standard output at best mate. And I do believe that the NA appropriate alternator, as my replacement might very well be, has a smaller output than the TT unit, so do NOT buy something that will only cause more trouble or possibly even harm. There, another potential sale scuttled by yours truly!

For the alternator itself? If you can change the serpentine belt without getting into difficulty then you are halfway there already! First thing is to disconnect the battery. Remove the alternator/cooling fan (serpentine) drive belt by holding the tensioner pulley nut with the correct socket & bar and applying pressure in a clock-wise (looking at the front of the engine) direction. This lifts the tensioner pulley off the belt, relieving the belt tension, and allowing you to slip the belt off another pulley. After that the heavy current (battery) lead and the control wires to the alternator need to be undone. The control wires are all contained in the three pin plug, which pulls out once the locking tab has been pressed firmly enough to escape the socket. Wiggle the socket to release it, don't pull the wires if at all possible or you'll be repairing those too. The heavy current lead is held in place by a 6mm nut. Use a 10mm socket or spanner to undo. There are only two fasteners holding the alternator to the engine after that.

You may struggle to get access without removing the airbox mate, if you have one that is. I can't really remember as mine was heavily altered by the time the original alternator gave up the ghost. For what it's worth, my loom plug and alternator socket is the round type. I'm not sure what the stock TT plug and socket configuration is. My car was an NA, converted to 1jz. Perhaps someone with first hand experience of the TT configuration could shed some light on the matter.

I've a new replacement alternator here with no more than two hours on it if, you want to save some dough on a brand new unit. I'd need a pic of the three pin socket on your own alternator or the corresponding loom plug, to ensure mine is a match.

Hi Kev. I have one here mate. It's not immaculate, but is in perfect working order. The plastic handles are in very good condition but, if it's perfection you are looking for, the white diagrams are probably the weak point with a blemish or two and a bit of aging. If you want pictures and you're on WhatsApp pm me your number and I'll fire them straight over to you.

Cool beans mate. Say a tenner, posted?

I've both sets here Mark.

All good this end Greg. I'll get the piping out to you early next week.

Hi Greg. All pipework, to & from the power steering cylinder, is available and in excellent condition, including the pipe-securing clamps. Is it just the metal section with the banjo on the return side you require?

Hi Dave. The biggest box I have available (50 x 50 x 40) for the cooler still requires the 90° bend (where the cooler bends to follow the chassis into the engine bay) to be bent a little further in order for the box to close. But, with the condition and nature of the material, this can be done (and undone) without any trouble. Being doing this sort of thing in work for years! All bracketry is still with the cooler and, if the finish wasn't a concern, everything is ready to fit. Price of the cooler, including shipping to the UK, is £70.

No bother mate, I'll be in touch when I know more on Saturday.

I should do Greg. I'll certainly check for you.

Can you leave it with me for a day or two mate, so I can see what the shipping would be on a suitable box. I'd probably have the bracket as well, also rust-free. As is the entire underside of the car.

If you're talking about the stock PS oil cooler/metal pipe I've a complete one here in excellent condition. A quick rub and a fresh coat of paint would leave it good as new as rust is certainly not a issue.

I have a bare BOV in a box somewhere Jody. I'll root it out for you over the next day or two if it's of interest to you.

There's two bump stops per window Griff. I have both if you still need them. Both will come complete with all fasteners and gaskets.

Reservoir here Ross, if you can't find one closer.

Did you receive the pictures alright Keron?

Pm'd Keron