Big Supes

Absolutely. Works well with the SRD FMIC. Obviously it depends on what turbo/manifold combo you run, but you can see from the pictures it gets you 90% there.

SRD FMIC fitted along with the Link G4X ECU. As you can see in the previous pictures the whifbitz hot side single turbo pipework works a charm with the turbo position.

Manifold, turbo and downpipe bolted down. New OEM water pump, thermostat, cam belt, tensioner and idle pulley fitted. Also went for a new fluid crank pulley. TT water outlets welded shut and capped off. Speaking of the water pipes, I performed the heat matrix mod to free up the pipe work and moved the T-piece forward to allow more room for the downpipe. I'm undecided which route to run the oil feed to the turbo and whether it needs some heat protection.

@keronat Extreme Performance. As for other breakers, ebay might be your best bet.

https://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk He responds to DM's on Instagram @whifbitz and yes, they supply and fit their own NA-t kit.

Update... Downpipe is done, and more importantly, it actually fits, which is handy. So, I ended up buying a tig welder and put the time in to get familiar with it. There was so much work to do, it was the only way to get it done as favours only go so far lol. My welds aren't the prettiest so go easy on me lol. My main focus was strength and no leaks. Tbh, this was a bit above my pay grade, but with determination and perseverance, it finally got there in the end. I managed to source a Whifbitz 4" cat back system to marry up with the mid pipe so in theory it shouldn't have been too much work, but after getting it all to fit, I wasn't happy with how low the mid pipe hung so it was back to the drawing board. I decided to chop the midpipe, decrease the angle of the bend so it can sit a lot tighter to the body and adjust the downpipe again. The end result is the midpipe now has a little finger gap between it and the body. Once I was happy with the above it was time to get the wastegates sorted. I took some measurements and pictures of the gap between the downpipe and the steering column and body of the car and then removed the manifold and screwed it to the wall of my garage for ease of access. One wastegate is fixed as vibrant bellows seem to be a PITA to get hold of. Fortunately a standard flex pipe could be used for the other as it's pretty challenging to get it 100% perfect as 1mm of error on the flange can throw the downpipe to turbo out 5mm which equates to inches where it meets the midpipe. I appreciate it'll likely warp once its ran a load of boost, but I'll have the vibrant bellow ready and waiting to plum in next time the downpipe is removed. I opted to recirc the wastegates as I'm a bit oldskool and like all the noise to come out of the rear of the car whilst hearing that old S300 whisling its tits off up the front. That being said, I think screamer pipes are still incredibly cool. Coming on boost feels like an event. Once everything fitted I was really pleased and went to fit my magnificent creation into the car only to find out my big old saxophone was too big to squeeze past the manifold and it was too big to stuff down the gap and fit the manifold after. Back to the drawing board again to make the second wastegate removable with Vbands. So, the order of installation is as follows... Manifold, insert downpipe into position, turbo, connect downpipe and then connect wastegates and remaining wastegate pipe.

Any questions just ping them over mate and I'd be happy to help. In a nutshell, I went for the Grannas Racing 700a kit and haven't looked back, tbh. Everything arrives on a pallet for you to drive away 6sp manual. It's a really decent, comprehensive kit. As for the heat today, I also couldn't do a full day on the car. I got the brakes off mine too and called it a day.

Outside of checking for vaccum leaks, it sounds a bit like one of those, change 'this and that' and hope you get lucky, scenarios. I'm not very versed in the GE or NA-T's, but I'd imagine it would have a MAP sensor, but sure, the dizzy is driven by the camshaft so the timing is mechanical. Tbh, if Chris Wilson is on the case, I don't think I can offer anything outside of his knowledge. I presume the ignition system is in good order, especially the HT leads? I recall them shorting onto the cylinder head when they break down over time.

Sounds like the bodywork is in good hands. Yeah, I love the close ratio T56 with 6th being overdrive. Doing the manual swap on mine with the Grannas Racing kit really brought the car to life and reignited my love for it. 4th time lucky buddy!! I look forward to more updates.

What model of Supra do you have and what modifications?

Howdy peeps, Just removed my UK-Spec brakes and they look like they need a refurb as I have signs of seized pistons. I could try and free them up on the bench and slap them back in, but there's obviously a seal gone so they'll only bind up again. Does anyone know of someone who I can send them to for a refurb? Any idea on price? Lastly, I'm pondering replacing with a set of K-Sport brakes instead, but they'll need to work with my wheels.

Ouch. That's a PITA. Maybe time for a carbon bonnet and a new wing?

Hey Homer, great to see you and Kev giving the RSP some love. I still find myself with a strange attachment to the car as it's the reason I got back into Supra ownership after negotiations to buy it with Jason. Once I had it in my head I was coming back to the Supra world, it was going to happen no matter what. Getting back to your project, good plan using the silver one as a donor car. Do Toyota still do body sills? I'd look to replace the whole lot for new instead of patching them up. So, how many gearboxes has this car had once the final swap (or not lol) has been done? BTW, a quick FYI, the large UK Auto LSD goes incredibly well with the T56 in terms of gear ratios.

Let's hope so mate. They seem to perform pretty well on a mates big single which gave me confidence in getting them as a last resort. I'm hoping by the time it comes change them, the Pilot Sport 5's will be available in my sizes.

Nice, it goes to show just how important the choice of tyre is. I found it hard to get tyres for the rears so ended up going with P Zeros all round. I tried to source R888's, but the distributors in my area said they can't get them. The P Zeros should do the job for a bit.

That is one girthy rear plate.

Thanks mate, they're 265/35/r18 on the front and 285/30/r18 on the rear. I've forgotten the offset, but the rears are pretty much perfect on stock arches, but the fronts require a 10mm spacer to clear the UK brakes. Not the end of the world, mind you.

Absolute steal for a built single. GLWS.

Nice. My ashtray is the one thing letting down my brand new manual surround.

Rubber and centre caps fitted. They're just patiently waiting to go on now. Apologies for the lack of updates, I've genuinely been so busy working on the car trying to meet a friends kids prom, but I intend to do a big catch up once it's running.

Lovely example you've got there. Welcome.

Alpine Silver Supra's - roll out!

You might be better giving SRD a shout and getting a new Bride rail.

I'm thinking 285 will be the sweet spot. Good find mate. I'll be honest, I've found it a bit of a headache trying to find size consistency with the PS4's. Michelin don't have all the sizes available on their website and other suppliers list the missing ones, but not others.

Max size for Michelin PS4 on a r18 is 265, IIRC. I can run a set on the front, but not the rears.