kargato

Okay, thanks for responding bud. I appreciate it.

Yup thats the plug, I moved that white tab up, it hinges upward, but I cant get it to pull out. Or maybe I'm afraid to pull on it hard enough.

I I know this thread is old, but this is where I'm at. I need to remove the ecu harness as I have a break in 3 sensor wires, crank, and both cams. And this dang orange plug is in in my way. The plastic retainer hinged upward for me, but I can't seem to get the plug out. Anyone got pics Thanks for the help in advance

I just experienced this same issue, however I realized that the o/d light would not flash if the o/d button was actually off. Putting it on results in it flashing together with the slip cont off light. Also, the relay labeled abs sol clicks rapidly as soon as the ign is turned on and never stops. Has anyone experienced this?

Hey guys, Not sorry to revive an old thread because good informative threads should never die I was doing some research on the 12v mod and came across this thread, and I have a few questions.. There is a revised 12v fuel mod that uses a relay to retain near stock operation. With this revision, what are your opinions? Would you still advise to leave the factory wiring as is or does the new mod satisfy your concerns. Also, I am curious to find out what eventually happened to Suprash car. thanks for the replies.

Anyone?

Hey guys a bit of an update, I had the car checked out and did not find a solution to this problem yet! But the noise has disappeared since I made that video I posted. over the weekend I decided to clean up my rims and give them a good polish, and saw that the tire on the left rear (where I suspected the noise was coming from) is bald on the inside, to the extent that the steel belt is showing This was a complete surprise as the car was checked about 2 months ago trying to find the cause of that "tribal band" noise and there was a decent amount of tread left on the tires. When i checked the right rear wheel, the tread looked pretty much the same as it did 2 months ago, BUT! while looking around I saw that the rear sway bar (stock) was broken near the end where the drop link attaches I have no idea when this happened, and I have not been pushing the car since I am still uncertain about the cause of that noise that is proving to be elusive, so I could not feel excessive body roll as one would expect. my question is, would the broken sway bar cause the excessive tire wear on the OPPOSITE side of the car or is there something more sinister going on here... Jonathan.

My car had this issue since I bought it, and I just recently solved it thanks to chris and others pointing me in the right direction. turned out to be the active spoiler ecu and a airbag lamp that was stuck on.... In my case, the active spoiler ecu was keeping the master warning lamp on regardless of speed... have a read http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?282764-Mil-on

Ok thanks for the heads up. I am trying to sort everything one step at a time. Right now I need to know if anyone has replaced their u joint on the drive shaft. I know there are replacement joints for this type of u joint for other vehicles, and I would much rather replace the joint than to obtain another used shaft which may or may not last long, and puts me back where I started...... I have searched this forum and google extensively, and I am finding it unbelievable that I am the only person with a faulty joint on an mkiv, or maybe they all just replaced their drive shafts and didn't document what they did

Well I am trying to sort the drive shaft out first because a bad u joint can cause unpleasant noise as well. Has anyone looked at the pic I uploaded in my last post? I am trying to find replacement u joints. The TSRM says to replace the whole drive shaft! I'm sure there is a way around that!

I did that when the car made the noise, before I recorded that video clip. The suggestion came from a forum member on another supra based forum. Everyone on that forum claimed wheel bearing and told me what to do to check for a faulty one, but it was kind of strange because the noise would happen once in a while... The last time I heard the noise was when I recorded the video clip, and that was a few months back. The car is driven daily, and its a bit strange that a faulty wheel bearing would stay quiet for so long. BUT I will say that the noise did stop when the weight of the vehicle transferred to one side and became very loud on the other, and returned as soon as the car's center of gravity returned to neutral. It also makes the noise slightly when I reverse a few yards, but nothing like what you hear in the video. I can also get it to make the noise slightly when I accelerate hard and boost and then slow down or stop; the noise will then surface when I move off again, but it wont last long, just a second or two. I have jacked the car up, shook the rear wheels side to side for movement, checked the bolts, exhaust etc everything seems OK. However, in the process of checking for the cause of the issue I have found a faulty U joint. The one closest to the transmission. It does not look like it can be replaced? Please let me know what you guys think, I have attached a picture of the u joint. It does not have any C clips on it, so if it can be replaced, please let me know how to do so. My next step is to have the diff checked out, to see if it got visited by a bad dentist thanks Johnny. IMG-20130126-00382.zip

Cool. I sorted all the dash lights that were off, but I also had an underlying fault witht he active spoiler. Disconnecting the ecu sorted my warning lamp issue.

I Did not suspect the active spoiler because I expected it to throw a code up when the car hits 50mph or so. Most claim their warning lamp would come on then, and go off after they have turned the car off and started it up again. I'm just glad one issue is sorted.. Now I have to get my rear end inspected to find out whats causing that dodgy noise Please have a look at my other thread "strange noise" and post any ideas you my have. Thanks once again guys, couldn't do it without you guys pointing me in the right direction

Definitely is satisfying .

Ohh I think I made a mistake, I was referring to the big red triangle in the middle of the odo. At the time of creating this thread I thought it was called the malfunction indicator lamp. But I see now that the check engine light is the MIL and the red triangle is the Master warning lamp. I should have titled the thread MWL on instead. Sorry for the confusion, but it is off now

Guys! I pulled the plug from the spoiler ecu and reassembled the dash. Was about to head out to get some brake fluid and when I released the handbrake the main warning light went off!!! Thanks for all your help.

Thanks guys. I just did the air bag reset. Took me about 5 seconds to get it off. I followed the thread I found, but since I did not have anyone else to monitor the lamp for me I made a wire harness with 3 "gator clips", long enough to reach the cabin. Two clips for AB and TC clamped on 2 paper clips and shoved into the terminals of the diagnostic port and the third gator clip on the negative battery terminal. The main warning lamp is still on, but it seems to be a bit dimmer as it gets a little brighter when I open the door. I believe I am getting close to getting it off entirely. The dash has been removed before I got the car for certain. When I ordered it from japan it had a 7 inch dvd player/nav, but this was taken out/stolen along with the stereo brackets while the car was in transit to me. Took me a while to track down a rhd pair of brackets, but I finally got them a few weeks ago. Anyways, I will pull the plug on the active spoiler ecu and try adding a little more dot 4 fluid and update you guys. Chris the weather is a little gloomy, at the moment, expecting some rain but still nice! You been to the caribbean?

anyone?

Forgot to mention that I have it set up to vent to atmosphere.

Well my master warning lamp is on constantly, and I have not seen all those lights that were listed by jev. So I was wondering if a blown warning bulb would cause the Master warning to stay on after the engine has been started, and the hand brake has been released, because as we all know, the master lamp stays on with the handbrake, and I think if a door or boot is open as well?

Ok, I will have a look at it over the weekend.

Hmm. Well the whole rear axle is going to get checked out soon. Just wanted to know if you guys had experienced this before and possibly point me in the right direction. There no Jumanji game back there but you may get that real life Jumanji experience if you drive down to Blackpool Zoo on East Park Drive and maybe jump the fences?

everything is tight. jacked the car up, took the wheels off and everything looks the part. I have checked the plates behind the brake disk to see if they were bent but thats not an issue. I am inclined to believe its the wheel bearing, but it does not sound like a faulty wheel bearing, and I dont hear this noise all the time, last time I heard it was 2 months ago

I have a syncronic dv from synapse engineering.

Hey guys, Im trying to sort out some issues with my car. From time to time I hear a strange noise coming from the rear of the car. I am not sure what it is so please let me know what you think. It sounds like the wheel is about to fall off...[OOPS][/OOPS] you can hear the audio in the attachement or view on youtube. Thanks for your help. Johnny. [video=youtube;CcSsON-HkyQ] VID 20120902 00006.zip