bigbloodyturbo

Hows your experience with this one been? Is it easy to use and operate?

This. Buying out of warranty on modern German cars is a risk nowadays in my opinion, dont get me wrong buying out of warranty in any car is a gamble but the German marques seem to be able to have common faults that don't require a recall but do require you to re-mortgage to pay for in the event they fail ( a-la Audi stronic gearbox's that let go and cost £k's to fix)

Stupid thought but make sure all your wheel studs are still in place. I had a similar problem during acceleration and when I was done prodding about at sub frame bolts I decided to jack the back up and take the wheels off only to discover 2 studs where gone and one more had broken enough to lose the nut on one wheel and the opposite wheel had lost a couple aswell. It seemed to be a fairly common thing on here at one point people losing wheel studs.

264's iirc are slightly higher lift than stock but its the duration that you should be interested in. Mucho overlap on high boost might not be what your after at the stock rev limit, selecting cam profiles and timing is not the same between a naturally aspirated engine and a FI engine. High lift and overlap can be detrimental to what you really want to achieve.

Check the wiring to the coilpacks for heat damage on the sleeving.

I dont see why they would seize any more or any less than any other brake setup (assuming they has the dust covers put back on the pistons). My old jspec setup was bloody horrible for seizing, and they were used everyday.

I wouldn't call a v8 more reliable than a straight six, look at ajp v8's, lotus v8's even those old TR stags haha. Between the two i'd rather have a v8 supra than a straight six but thats more due to the way it would deliver power when its boosted, tons of capacity to drive a big turbo with plenty of off boost torque AND the noise is amazing.

I'll admit I do have a habit of using the old croc clip and needle technique to probe outputs from various things. Around where the break in the insulation is it looks like its seen a lot of heat, insulation has gone brittle and many of the strands in the core have broken. I've got some double insulated teflon coated high temperature wire we use downhole, i'll repair it with that, be able to hold a blow torch on it then:)

you probably wont believe this but I just checked my coilpack harness and I have EXACTLY the same damage in EXACTLY the same place on cylinder one coilpack clip wiring. I'll take a picture but it's literally identical:blink:

Funny I'm chasing a missfire under load at 4krpm and during my google searches I've found your exact same problem mentioned in atleast three different threads on supraforums, guys saying they traced missfires back to coilpack wiring shorting out from dodgy insulation.

Just because the turbo flange isn't clocked out doesn't mean its a cheap and nasty manifold, you'll find its most likely a cast manifold which if on a budget will be a lot more reliable than a budget tubular manifold. Look at phr's cast manifold, straight like this one. He also hasn't mentioned what ecu or injectors he has but judging by the money spent inside it on fancy gauges and boost controllers I'd be surprised if he's overlooked ecu and fuel control, this add strikes me as someone who doesn't know very much about cars writing an ad, not neccesarily a half arsed effort at a single conversion, could be wrong.

the fuse is next to the throttle pedal. Put the spoiler down when the ignition is on then pull the fuse. It will stay down but it finds kerbs hella fast.

I get what you mean now. Nah, I only know that bit as it happened to me when I fed a 0-5v input from an LC-1 into a syvecs and wondered why it went stinking rich all the time, turned out because the lc-1 was 0-5v LINEAR and not the usual gradient response off the syvecs supplied wideband it defaulted when I blipped the throttle and told the ecu I was at 18.4afr(user defined default value) when I wasn't. ECU then dumped fuel in and I couldn't understand why. I got 9.5-10afr on idle and ran like a bag of spanners:)

no 18-19 afr. If the ecu see's your sensor output as being outwith the expected values then it defaults the to 18-19 or whatever you set it to. This skews the map to always make you run rich. -edit- should mention this was on a syvecs, I dont know if other ecu's operate the same, hence why I asked which ecu he had.

What ecu have you got? if your ecu has flagged your o2 input as 'failed' it will default to the failed sensor value, as standard this may be 18-19:1 which would make you run pig rich for safety all the time.