wojtrek

Hi, I'm interested in the door and RH rear brake ducts/grills etc. Question is, will you send them or will that be a problem?

Hi. I need all 4 arms but just the right/driver side. Are you interested? If so, shipping to PE30 3HR, or if you are willing to an address in Poland. Thanks

Great, should you find it, will you ship to Poland? Thanks

do you still have the upper water neck? [ATTACH=CONFIG]212398[/ATTACH] if so, will you ship to Poland?

if you're willing to pack them, I can arrange transport to Poland and get them off your hands.

you DO have boost under 1800rpms, it's just that your gearbox will not let you have 100% open throttle and 1800rpms, when it sees that kind of throttle position the torque converter bumps the revs to around 2500, just like most automatic gearboxes from that time. Only these new autoboxes and DSG boxes will transfer all power from low rpms without the 'slip'. That's the reason you have that dip on the dyno graph before 3000rpm, that's the autobox ecu not transferring all the power. and 7 psi by 2500 is not really a valid readout, because the needle went past that mark just as the rpms were crossing 2500mark to the ECU's desired rpms. From the SC characteristic it is simply not possible to have 11psi at 3000rpm and only 7psi at 2500. I had a supercharged civic, 1.6 engine with 12psi boost, it made 265hp at the crank. It had a M62 eaton, so half the size of you SC, but it was half the engine. so, because it was a manual, I could watch the boost rise with the rpms, and at idle rpms (from around 1000rpms) it already was at 3psi. 1500rpms 5-6 and 7-8 at 2000rpms and 10+ from 2500rpms, and I'm pretty sure this is what you'd see with a manual. thanks for the video edit: and it's true you don't really need a clutch on the SC pulley because you're using a bypass valve. Mercedes puts the clutch on cars without the bypass probably. The SC only eats significant power when compressing air, when it's in bypass mode, it just spins. Probably it's more than .5 HP but an insignificant number nonetheless.

that's great what about below 2000? is it like say 8psi at 1800rpms, 5 psi 1500rpms?

so your transmission holds a gear even if you floor it at say 1800rpms? and I mean WOT. I doubt that, simply because looking at the dyno chart, you'll see that the torque at 2000rpms is at 320, which is more than peak torque at around 4800. Since I have a dyno and I have had many cars with automatic gearboxes on it, with me at the wheel, I can tell you that this looks like a typical automatic gearbox chart, that dip, high torque at low rpms etc. but please check that boost at low rpms, since this is one of the advantages the SC should have over turbos a 3 liter naturally aspirated motor that revs to around 6900rpms needs around 350cfm at max rpm, WOT (at 90% Volumetric efficiency) - according to many CFM calculators online. so, to get 1 bar positive pressure (15 psi) the charger should flow around 700cfms. depending on charge temps, fuel, ignition etc, that should net, in our 2JZ, around 450hp at the crank. this is more a guess work, not real calculations. I think it;s pretty hard to convert CFMs into HPs. But I think most of you will agree that once you go single 450HP at 1 bar is more less what you get. If you have a huge turbo, you will have closer to 500hp and with small twins, you're closer to 400. So more less 450 from 1 bar. now, your SC revs at 1.69 the revs of the engine. that's around 11500rpm. looking at a M112 performance map (http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128487.gif) 11500 rpm, 0.7bar (11lbs which you have) it flows ca. 1160 m3/hour, which converts to about 680CFM. now if a 2JZ really needs around 350CFM while naturally aspirated, and at 1 bar positive pressure 700CFM, then at your 0.7 bar (11lbs) it needs ca. 595CFM. unless of course, your engine's VE is different. so, the SC flows 680CFM at the specs you provided, the engine needs around 600 from these calculations. a stock 2JZ-GTE has 320hp at the crank and 323ft/lb of tourqe at the crank. and it does that with 0.7bar of pressure, so your kind of pressure. if around 750CFM really equals more less 500hp, then your 600CFM equals to 400HP. Now, we have to consider 2 quite important things. 1. You have 320 at the hubs, which probably is around 340-350 at the crank, BUT! 2. A supercharger needs power to rev, it eats up your crank HPs! Parasitic loss at 11500rpms at 0.7 bar is about 50HP (http://www.mediafire.com/conv/fe2f8b017ec84d1a11dff490fbb856a9514d50f15d61d66df7126eba4bed85f46g.jpg) so, your engine produces about 390-400HP at the crank, so pretty good for that boost. but only 320 get to the hubs due to the parasitic losses and some power lost in the gearbox. since a turbocharged supra does not have the parasitic losses of a supercharger (only that of a gearbox) your car should be more less as fast as a 350HP (crank) automatic supra. if you want to add say 100hp, you would need to change your pulley set from 1.69 ratio to a 2.1 one. so if you leave your crank pulley, you need to change your SC pulley to 3.24". but then your revving your SC to 14500rpm and making around 500 crank HP. the parasitic loss goes up to probably 70-80HP, so you end up with around 400 at the hubs. you have a 3.8" SC pulley. this will raise the ratio to 1.78 and SC rpms to 12200rpms. you will gain appx. 50-60CFM so I'm guessing 30ish HP? sorry for that long post

They do, at 5252rpm as they should. If you put the left torque (red) graph over the right power (red also) graph, they will cross. But no idea what the greens stand for?

I just renewed my membership to see that dyno chart, really Great work! I presume 320 is at the wheels, the dyno chart says wheel torque, so I guess this is wheel power? and that dip before 3000rpm is due to the autobox not letting to go full throttle and downshifting? David, what sort of psi are you seeing at 1500-2000rpm? I wonder if having so much boost of idle is killing the bearings once again, I bow to your craftsmanship! you have fans in Poland

I'm using a multimeter with a temp probe which measures temps 5cm before the throttle body. I'm guessing it's even hotter in the manifold. The test was conducted first on my dyno with a huge (1meter diameter) high power fan and then on a motorway, and repeated many times. Same result all the time And like you say, even after a stop at the lights, the temps go back to normal in a matter of seconds. What I'm guessing is that since the SMIC is so 'narrow' (less than a half of a normal FMIC) the air does not have enough time to cool as with a 'wide' one. The GReddy SMIC is quite thick, but 'narrow'. If you touch it after a dyno pull it's barely warm around the outlet, hence my guess as to why the air is so hot... but maybe I'm talking rubbish

Yeah, I read all of that before, but since these are so hard to get hold of and I found something even more rare - the GReddy SMIC, I thought it would be alright. What is an OK inlet temp at around 500hp? Because I can't see my temps staying at 60degrees C after I raised boost from 1.1 to 1.5bar

Of course it is efficient in some way - I'm just saying it isn't efficient like I hoped it would be. I never tested the stock SMIC, but my friend's supra, which I also tested today, that has an AEM EMS2, which logs manifold temps shows 12C higher than ambient temps at 1.7bar! He's basically running same sort of turbo but has a GReddy 4 row, the biggest IC there is. At 1bar the temp was only 8 degrees higher than ambient. that is 40 degrees difference at same sort of pressure and power. I have a stock front bumper, so nothing is in the way of fresh air...

Hi, I just wanted to post the temps I logged today while driving around. I read that this SMIC should be fine for 500-600hp, but I don't think so - I have a relatively big single turbo running today at 1.1bar (which is nothing, as it's capable of 650hp) and a 60 to 120mph pull through 3rd, 4th and 5th raised the intake temp from around 25C to 63C. The ambient temp was 15C, so that is almost 50C more than ambient during a not-too-long acceleration. The sensor is just before the throttle. At this boost my car dynos at 450hp. So, 450hp, 1.1bar, and it looks like the GReddy SMIC is having enough. Has anyone of you who owns the Chris Wilson SMIC logged temps while driving? regards, Wojtek

before the hybrids, I had the GT3076R turbo, but at that time I had a cat (although a high-flow) which now I know was very power limiting. I always wanted the widest power range possible, I thought that since even a small turbo like the GT30 is not 'wide' enough for me I need to go back to a sequential setup. I found the hybrids here and gave it a try. Yeah, 400 is not enough. But with these hybrids I think 450-460 is not a problem with good tune with some piggyback or standalone. If that is enough for you - go for it. But now I have put a turbo that has a very wide power range, almost as good as the sequential setup, but capable of 600hp. I will post the results as soon as I have finished tuning it. All I will say now is that with this turbo, in 6th gear on the road, I see 1.0 bar at 2650rpms, and that's before tuning, so with stock ignition timing That is almost exactly like the first hybrid turbo. cheers

My car is Euro spec, 550 injectors, with mass air flow sensor, but I removed the MAF with a HKS VPC. The HKS VPC is working fine in my friend's supra with a Greddy TD07S and around 530bhp, apart from the turbos, the cars are exactly the same, euro spec, 550 injectors. So I really don't know why wasn't it making more power with more boost. If it's not the Greddy SMIC (still looks like new), then I don't know. I'm also running single turbo now, with the same setup (injectors, SMIC, HKS VPC) and I already have 500bhp. and patrik, I don't think I will ever sell my supra

if anyone is interested, I have finally found out what was the reason I couldn't push these beyond 1.1bar - the wastegates started to crack open at 1.1bar. You can see the point when they start to open on the dyno chart above - there's a decline that starts at 5100rpm. No matter what I did, I always had this decline from around 5000rpm. I used a wire to manually shut them and it helped - I could then run them up to 1.6 bar, but since I was running on a stock ECU this wasn't too safe. I used HKS VPC to delete MAF and run higher boost but probably due to my SMIC (although it's Greddy) not being sufficient or something else I couldn't pass 450hp. I think these hybrids are good to around 460hp with a decent IC and tuning, maybe more? Since I had 430hp at 1.1bar which is more than the max I had on stock turbos (at 1.3bar I had 420hp AFAIR) Anyway, these are already out of the car and soon I will share what I have put into my car - the ultimate street turbo I guess. the car is already running on it, but I will tune it soon, put finishing touches etc. so expect extensive video and dyno coverage soon

permission to say 'c*ck'...

OK, I have measured my brakes, these will clear them - I'll take them. PM on the way.

Here's a little update for those interested. Didn't have much time, so my HKS264s are still not in the car, have not been able to control boost reliably with my apexi avcr etc. I dynoed the car today, 18C ambient temp, the hybrids boost 0.75bar before transition (420Nm or 309ft/lb at 3000rpm), and go up to 1.1bar, peak at 1.15 (where max TQ is, btw 577Nm i 425ft/lb), and fall to 1.1 or just slightly below 1.1. this is what the dyno showed: http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/8118/supra110115bar.gif Uploaded with ImageShack.us the current setup is stock engine, Greddy SMIC, Tanabe Medallion, downpipe and no cats. I have no idea why I cant go higher than 1.2bar. The apexi is maxed out, I may have problem with some actuator, VSVs or sth. I tested them many times but to no avail. I will be putting my HKS VPC instead of my MAF, will dyno then too. I'm thinking that maybe I have problems with wastegate, maybe it's a 1bar wastegate and it will just open under pressure from exhaust gasses? Or am I talking rubbish?

I'm looking for a complete, good condition targa top (with all seals, parts etc). Anyone?

I have the greddy BCC, so I guess I have the boost cut bit covered. Although it is interesting to read, that the MAP sensor is there only for fuel cut. I'd imagine that the ECU looks at both MAF and MAP reading and sort of interpolates a point in the fuel and ignition maps, but it turns out, I just learned some new stuff. Great info! That load of cr*p I read either here or (probably) supraforums while looking for info about my HKS VPC, which currently sits on a shelf. The suggestion was, that whatever you do below transition point, would not affect the AFR. So, just to make sure, a hypothetical situation - is it true, that altering the MAF signal might alter the ignition? for example, if I had bigger injectors, tried to lean out the mixture by lowering the MAF voltage, this might trick the ECU to thinking there's less air/boost so it could advance timing - the effect being knock or in the extreme situation blowing engine? thanks again Ian, I'll start looking into Emanage!

great! thanks for sharing your knowledge! i just thought that tuning MAF signal and MAP signal on a supra at the same time might be tricky. although maybe all I'll need is just a moderate tune for my hybrids... also, can anyone confirm what I read here in archived posts, that with a piggyback, you cannot control whatever is happening before transition, because the ECU is ignoring this signal or something along those lines? this is stuff read here, so don't flame me this might as well be a load of cr*p, but I'd rather ask.

OK, so I now know, that for instance Emanage ultimate should do the job. Are there any risks involved in piggybacking a MAF 2JZ? Any examples of blown up engines?

i just installed hybrids in my car - parallel mode is out of the question. I want my car as streetable as possible. I know AEM is the best bet, but this is a rather hardcore approach I think. No idea what the solaris is. But my question is, is it at all possible to tune a supra with MAF using only a piggyback? The car I think will just need a few percent more fuel, no major modifications I think.