wojtrek

Hi, I'm interested in the door and RH rear brake ducts/grills etc. Question is, will you send them or will that be a problem?

Hi. I need all 4 arms but just the right/driver side. Are you interested? If so, shipping to PE30 3HR, or if you are willing to an address in Poland. Thanks

Great, should you find it, will you ship to Poland? Thanks

do you still have the upper water neck? [ATTACH=CONFIG]212398[/ATTACH] if so, will you ship to Poland?

if you're willing to pack them, I can arrange transport to Poland and get them off your hands.

you DO have boost under 1800rpms, it's just that your gearbox will not let you have 100% open throttle and 1800rpms, when it sees that kind of throttle position the torque converter bumps the revs to around 2500, just like most automatic gearboxes from that time. Only these new autoboxes and DSG boxes will transfer all power from low rpms without the 'slip'. That's the reason you have that dip on the dyno graph before 3000rpm, that's the autobox ecu not transferring all the power. and 7 psi by 2500 is not really a valid readout, because the needle went past that mark just as the rpms were crossing 2500mark to the ECU's desired rpms. From the SC characteristic it is simply not possible to have 11psi at 3000rpm and only 7psi at 2500. I had a supercharged civic, 1.6 engine with 12psi boost, it made 265hp at the crank. It had a M62 eaton, so half the size of you SC, but it was half the engine. so, because it was a manual, I could watch the boost rise with the rpms, and at idle rpms (from around 1000rpms) it already was at 3psi. 1500rpms 5-6 and 7-8 at 2000rpms and 10+ from 2500rpms, and I'm pretty sure this is what you'd see with a manual. thanks for the video edit: and it's true you don't really need a clutch on the SC pulley because you're using a bypass valve. Mercedes puts the clutch on cars without the bypass probably. The SC only eats significant power when compressing air, when it's in bypass mode, it just spins. Probably it's more than .5 HP but an insignificant number nonetheless.

that's great what about below 2000? is it like say 8psi at 1800rpms, 5 psi 1500rpms?

so your transmission holds a gear even if you floor it at say 1800rpms? and I mean WOT. I doubt that, simply because looking at the dyno chart, you'll see that the torque at 2000rpms is at 320, which is more than peak torque at around 4800. Since I have a dyno and I have had many cars with automatic gearboxes on it, with me at the wheel, I can tell you that this looks like a typical automatic gearbox chart, that dip, high torque at low rpms etc. but please check that boost at low rpms, since this is one of the advantages the SC should have over turbos a 3 liter naturally aspirated motor that revs to around 6900rpms needs around 350cfm at max rpm, WOT (at 90% Volumetric efficiency) - according to many CFM calculators online. so, to get 1 bar positive pressure (15 psi) the charger should flow around 700cfms. depending on charge temps, fuel, ignition etc, that should net, in our 2JZ, around 450hp at the crank. this is more a guess work, not real calculations. I think it;s pretty hard to convert CFMs into HPs. But I think most of you will agree that once you go single 450HP at 1 bar is more less what you get. If you have a huge turbo, you will have closer to 500hp and with small twins, you're closer to 400. So more less 450 from 1 bar. now, your SC revs at 1.69 the revs of the engine. that's around 11500rpm. looking at a M112 performance map (http://www.eaton.com/ecm/groups/public/@pub/@eaton/@per/documents/content/ct_128487.gif) 11500 rpm, 0.7bar (11lbs which you have) it flows ca. 1160 m3/hour, which converts to about 680CFM. now if a 2JZ really needs around 350CFM while naturally aspirated, and at 1 bar positive pressure 700CFM, then at your 0.7 bar (11lbs) it needs ca. 595CFM. unless of course, your engine's VE is different. so, the SC flows 680CFM at the specs you provided, the engine needs around 600 from these calculations. a stock 2JZ-GTE has 320hp at the crank and 323ft/lb of tourqe at the crank. and it does that with 0.7bar of pressure, so your kind of pressure. if around 750CFM really equals more less 500hp, then your 600CFM equals to 400HP. Now, we have to consider 2 quite important things. 1. You have 320 at the hubs, which probably is around 340-350 at the crank, BUT! 2. A supercharger needs power to rev, it eats up your crank HPs! Parasitic loss at 11500rpms at 0.7 bar is about 50HP (http://www.mediafire.com/conv/fe2f8b017ec84d1a11dff490fbb856a9514d50f15d61d66df7126eba4bed85f46g.jpg) so, your engine produces about 390-400HP at the crank, so pretty good for that boost. but only 320 get to the hubs due to the parasitic losses and some power lost in the gearbox. since a turbocharged supra does not have the parasitic losses of a supercharger (only that of a gearbox) your car should be more less as fast as a 350HP (crank) automatic supra. if you want to add say 100hp, you would need to change your pulley set from 1.69 ratio to a 2.1 one. so if you leave your crank pulley, you need to change your SC pulley to 3.24". but then your revving your SC to 14500rpm and making around 500 crank HP. the parasitic loss goes up to probably 70-80HP, so you end up with around 400 at the hubs. you have a 3.8" SC pulley. this will raise the ratio to 1.78 and SC rpms to 12200rpms. you will gain appx. 50-60CFM so I'm guessing 30ish HP? sorry for that long post

They do, at 5252rpm as they should. If you put the left torque (red) graph over the right power (red also) graph, they will cross. But no idea what the greens stand for?

I just renewed my membership to see that dyno chart, really Great work! I presume 320 is at the wheels, the dyno chart says wheel torque, so I guess this is wheel power? and that dip before 3000rpm is due to the autobox not letting to go full throttle and downshifting? David, what sort of psi are you seeing at 1500-2000rpm? I wonder if having so much boost of idle is killing the bearings once again, I bow to your craftsmanship! you have fans in Poland

I'm using a multimeter with a temp probe which measures temps 5cm before the throttle body. I'm guessing it's even hotter in the manifold. The test was conducted first on my dyno with a huge (1meter diameter) high power fan and then on a motorway, and repeated many times. Same result all the time And like you say, even after a stop at the lights, the temps go back to normal in a matter of seconds. What I'm guessing is that since the SMIC is so 'narrow' (less than a half of a normal FMIC) the air does not have enough time to cool as with a 'wide' one. The GReddy SMIC is quite thick, but 'narrow'. If you touch it after a dyno pull it's barely warm around the outlet, hence my guess as to why the air is so hot... but maybe I'm talking rubbish

Yeah, I read all of that before, but since these are so hard to get hold of and I found something even more rare - the GReddy SMIC, I thought it would be alright. What is an OK inlet temp at around 500hp? Because I can't see my temps staying at 60degrees C after I raised boost from 1.1 to 1.5bar

Of course it is efficient in some way - I'm just saying it isn't efficient like I hoped it would be. I never tested the stock SMIC, but my friend's supra, which I also tested today, that has an AEM EMS2, which logs manifold temps shows 12C higher than ambient temps at 1.7bar! He's basically running same sort of turbo but has a GReddy 4 row, the biggest IC there is. At 1bar the temp was only 8 degrees higher than ambient. that is 40 degrees difference at same sort of pressure and power. I have a stock front bumper, so nothing is in the way of fresh air...

Hi, I just wanted to post the temps I logged today while driving around. I read that this SMIC should be fine for 500-600hp, but I don't think so - I have a relatively big single turbo running today at 1.1bar (which is nothing, as it's capable of 650hp) and a 60 to 120mph pull through 3rd, 4th and 5th raised the intake temp from around 25C to 63C. The ambient temp was 15C, so that is almost 50C more than ambient during a not-too-long acceleration. The sensor is just before the throttle. At this boost my car dynos at 450hp. So, 450hp, 1.1bar, and it looks like the GReddy SMIC is having enough. Has anyone of you who owns the Chris Wilson SMIC logged temps while driving? regards, Wojtek

before the hybrids, I had the GT3076R turbo, but at that time I had a cat (although a high-flow) which now I know was very power limiting. I always wanted the widest power range possible, I thought that since even a small turbo like the GT30 is not 'wide' enough for me I need to go back to a sequential setup. I found the hybrids here and gave it a try. Yeah, 400 is not enough. But with these hybrids I think 450-460 is not a problem with good tune with some piggyback or standalone. If that is enough for you - go for it. But now I have put a turbo that has a very wide power range, almost as good as the sequential setup, but capable of 600hp. I will post the results as soon as I have finished tuning it. All I will say now is that with this turbo, in 6th gear on the road, I see 1.0 bar at 2650rpms, and that's before tuning, so with stock ignition timing That is almost exactly like the first hybrid turbo. cheers