jihwaan

its not the length of the wand its the magic in it sunshine.... in plain english its not how much power you have but how well you drive... alternatively its not the size of the turbo but the amount of boost it can produce.. yada yada yada I could go on all day...

yep- I got one. looks like its black and has some sort of hairdryers attached to the engine... Lol- no my supra is my life...

hmm, I think I have one- let me go out to the garage and check.....

that is sex. I never saw a red supra I liked (except that one in denmark or wherever it is with the same Cwest light overs. That is uber sexy.

Very very noice I must say !

however I am led to I believe they have been discontinued

well if its not about supra's that means we are already off topic so I can ask- why do none of the links in your sig work Tee? both the postercars link (goes to the admin config console or summin') and the empire.com doesnt work either nor NiHaoEmpire.com? jus curiosity...?

Real quick effort also: http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=107101&stc=1&d=1269401877

most (or all- I dont know) toyota v8's are auto- unless you use all the soarer ecu/management you need g/box management ecu- then as was said gearbox mounts will likeley be different (very easy to fab gear box mounts though especially if you have the original soarer ones) and then tailshaft will almost certainly be different length (not a big issue either)...

The problem you have is twofold- the entire lip is not mirror polished and if you were to sand down the scratches you need to go deeper than the deepest scratch which is removing material (this is your second problem- not a big issue though in this case its only a mm or two by the looks of it). But yes you can sand down the area with some coarse (say 240 grit paper) to get the area at the same level as the deepest scratch then sand with 400 grit wet and dry paper with water- then 800 grit and if you wanted 1200 grit then polish but you will have to polish the rest of the lip to make it match in and I cannot tell if they have any sort of coating on them, if so you will have to get rid of that wth either stripping it chemically or sanding it down with 800-1200 wet and dry. easy enough job and I would do it if it was me but as was said earlier if you can get it fixed for 25$ GBP I would go that way.

If it is just resin top coat you can easily sand them back with some 1200-1500 grit wet and dry (keep it nice and wet) and just buff it out. If it has been 'laquered' with a two pack type clear over the top coat of resin you can still do the same but you must be extra careful not to rub through this thin clear top coat- as if you do you will see the layer difference even after buffing. My advice use the water test- if you wet the scratches and they mostly disappear you can wet sand and buff it out- if not take it to a panel shop or someone who specialises in carbon fibre mfg- it may be you can fill the scratches with clear resin (dont try and use standard fibreglass resin it is actually yellow when it goes off) then sand back level with the orginal and buff- but this is a job for someone experienced in this type of repair..

Post some more pics! thats nice.. congrats!

it may be a repost but if it is I haven't seen it before- does anyone know where there is anymore info on this car? http://foro.enfierrados.com/autos-motos-y-categorias-nacionales-e-internacionales/81467-sin-palabras-supra-super-gt.html Not to everyone's taste admittedly but you have gotta give the guy credit.. there is an amazing amount of work gone into that... hmm, access has been blocked for me so I will upload some of the pics here: (btw the info on it is its a street car from Malaysia- apparently the guy has done it to be like a super gt car over there or something with the lexcus front etc- built the whole bodykit himself by hand- the only panel left original is the roof or so the article said:

noice.

I have a roll of ductape, a balaclava and a female swedish backpacker, oops no hang on she has escaped.... seriously tho' just the spacesaver and an amp and 2x 10" subs...

what year celica was the wheel from? (or did i miss it in this thread?)

Ok I cant figure out which of these I need- I want both exhaust and intake cam cover gaskets- but as its vvti and I cant read japanese I cant figure out which part number is for the vvti intake cam cover and which is for the exhaust cover- these are from toyodiy.com - can anyone tell me which gaskets I need for the vvti tt motor cam covers? 11213 GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD COVER 11213-46020 2JZ*..JZA80; ｲﾝﾃ-ｸ ｻｲﾄﾞ 1 $17.18 11213-46030 2JZGTE..JZA80; ｲﾝﾃ-ｸ ｻｲﾄﾞ 1 $15.05 11214-46010 2JZ*..JZA80; ｴｷｿﾞ-ｽﾄ ｻｲﾄﾞ 1 $14.84 11214-46011 2JZ*..JZA80; ｴｷｿﾞ-ｽﾄ ｻｲﾄﾞ I did search and came across the part numbes in technical here but it doesnt tell me either- just has these numbers - v/c gskt intake-#11213-46020 v/c gskt exhaust-#11214-46011 v/c gskt exhaust-#11214-46030 [NA 98].. Can anyone tell me which gasket numbers are the ones for the vvti tt motor?

These are exactly the same as the Godspeed radiators on ebay.com- as stated the dowel type pins at the bottom are too big for the standard rubbers, the left radiator clamp bracket is about 4-6mm too far too the left and it fouls on the radiator support banel (bottom one) hence the radiator sits too high and the sensor bung at the bottom is the wrong size- I did manage to get mine to fit (well sort of)- I had a friend weld me in a new bung and tap it, cut my rubbers down where the pins go and cut the pins down and have had to do some small mods to the support panel (ie just tap it down with a dolly and hammer on the right side bracket - this isnt flush on the support panel from the factory- bend it back flush with some hammering and radiator drops 5-6mm which is enough for it to fit). unfortunately for me I didnt do a full search as I bought mine the day afer this was posted. Short version - DONT BUY ONE OF THESE UNLESS YOU ARE CONIFDENT IN SOME METAL MODIFICATIONS!!! even then it aint worth saving a hundred bucks or so. Thanks OP I hope this saves someone else.

Im getting the car ready for a car show in few months and i think it would be the icing on the cake- I like the way it looks, gives me something to mount the exinguishers to etc... But yes I know they offer no roll protection but they are technically legal here coz they mount to stock points and dont interfere with dirver/ passenger.. where as if I buy a bolt in cage it is illegal..

This is getting silly. Dusty at MVP has said he can get them but it will cost between 500 gbp and 750 gbp just for shipping from Japan >MVP USA > ME. starting to think this is impossible. Does anyone know if Jurgen could possibly source these?

Heya Nic, does this mean you are feeling better / selling again?

Is that a mint steering wheel or mint air bag? if its the steering wheel I will buy it right now (if of course pig doenst want it and as long as there are no marks etc on it)! I have been chasing a new wheel for a while now..

Thanks Rob- that was what i feared as I am after the do luck RTS not simply carbing braces... and so the search continues.... anyone else got any ideas where I may find a do luck rear tension set?

SO they arent identical then Rob? BTW Rob, have you still got your TS bonnet on? any chance of sending me some pics (I already saved all the ones in your gallery).. I have spent days chasing photo's of a black supra with do luck front trial rear and TS bonnet then I found your threads and gallery... (I am in process of getting said parts fitted to my black sup') so i could see what it looked like... and after seeing your car all I can say is it looks sh*t hot!!

Done - have PM'd him. I have just come across a post of Nic's on our aussie forum where he says carbing make the do-luck braces but dont sell them under their own name - maybe this has changed if do luck have discontinued them and they now sell them direct as carbing braces? shall wait and see but thanks everyone for your help!