
CWD
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Crossgates, just by Dunfermline, maybe back you never know or perhaps my son will take up the baton, he's car daft, i wonder what could have caused that:innocent:
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Well its time to move on, :rolleyes:today will be the end of my third spell as a supra owner, previously owned a 93 TT auto and then a 96 TT manual facelift:), the very late 1997 TT Tiptronic will pass into history tonight, must say I have enjoyed reading the great information on this forum and will continue to pop in now and again to catch up on some of the long term projects that are such a good read. My 13 year old son wasn’t happy that the car was going but I am sure he will enjoy the 2002 M5 that is replacing it;). So my long suffering wife will have to put up with yet another petrol guzzler on the drive.
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That will have been me;)
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Red dust over turbos and water lines? ? o and down on compression!
CWD replied to mattysupra's topic in Supra Chat
as above looks like coolant residue, if you are down on compression it maybe a head gasket, have you had a proper compression and leakdown test done? it doesnt take a big leak to leave lots of evidence behind -
Are you sure its not the connectors to the coil modules, a faulty coil is unlikely to cause damage to a new spark plug , but as you have just changed your spark plugs you will have distrubed all the coil module connectors which are a well know problem
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The crown size (top of piston that you can see) is smaller than the actual piston (seal size) in the bore so fronts probably measure 40mm across the crown but when removed they will measure 42.8mm
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From http://www.brakeparts.co.uk/ front 42.80mm seal diameter Back 40.00mm seal diameter if you look in the correct associated parts listing and then click on the piston it gives you the spec
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looking at the diagram the hose is part of 44402 cooler sub-assy power steering oil1 no1, it may not be a seperate part (in the land of toyota:()
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Thanks, got mine yesterday, very happy
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Pm sent
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unfortunately autoglass will only deal with OEM or OEM quality, and only buy from certain companies, i did think about the heated ones but dont know if they would go down that route.
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Just looked up the parts and can see why there is an issue. The standard UK screen has a blue tint, mines has a green tint option which was not available in the uk, and the green tint is 3x more expensive:( no wonder im over the windscreen limit on my insurance policy. looks like i will just have to wait it out
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Last week while driving across the forth road bridge, i got hit by a low flying object:rolleyes:. It chipped and cracked my windscreen beyound repair as its in the area directly in my line of sight:(. AutoGlass cannot source the replacement in the Uk other than from Toyota, and guess what Toyota have back ordered the part, :blink:probably because the chassis number is an imported 1998 vvti, toyota wont give them any sort of ETA. :taped:does anyone know of an alternative source of a puck brand new windscreen in the UK:search:
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Saw one of these go round knockhill years ago, very impressive, untill it entered the pits with melting front brakes, and dumped all its brake fliud over the tarmac:blink:
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100% correct, this isnt about Ferrari throwing their toys out of the pram, its about the total mismanagement of the sport by the FIA if you want F1 to be just another bog standardised championship, then back the FIA, people have such short memories i watch Ferrari for 21 years win nothing, they didnt shut up shop then did they!!! personally i would rather watch Ferrari at the back of the field than some made up US team with no history, and dont forget Brawn arnt winning because they had a small budget they have benifitted from the huge sums of money that Honda put into the team over the last winter, if they had only spent 40m they would be no where. (rant over)
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The first one looks like a pukka Seibon carbon Fiber Type TS, you can just see the fibre weave in the close up picture in the advert. the ebay one is a pretty good looking copy of the Seibon type TJ, but £400 cheaper!
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Have you checked the windscreen for small amounts of over spray since its just been painted?
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1997 Supra RZ-S Twin Turbo VVTi Tiptronic
Images added to a gallery album owned by CWD in Supra Garage
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From the album: 1997 Supra RZ-S Twin Turbo VVTi Tiptronic
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Just fitted 60.1 - 72.6 for my volks 18"AV3's and they fitted perfectly both to the wheels and the hubs very nice snug fit:D, got them from the ebay link above, emailed them and they were very helpfull:D, rings were very good quality:D The wheels now centre easily when refitting them,they were a nightmare before and threw away the 3mm & 5mm spacers that some nice japaneseee person had fitted for no reason other than to screw up the handeling as the wheels were already the correct ofset etc, wheels still easily clear uk brakes front and rear. the difference on the road was instantly noticable, the spacers and no rings were obviously a very bad combination, really happy with the results
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I have been looking into getting my dash panels coated for some time now, most car companies I believe use water transfer printing to coat the panels on new dash boards to get carbon or wood effect. I initially found mad coatings in Australia who were willing to do the work for about £300 plus delivery and it would take about 4 weeks. They even have photos of a supra dash on their site:) http://www.mad-coatings.com After some further investigation I found a company in the UK that can do the same process, and I have been given a quote of £188.50 including delivery, I have just mailed them a copy of the carbon effect I would like on all my face lift dash panels. And am awaiting a reply as to whether they can match the effect. The quote is for all dash panels including the door handles and window switch panel and gear surround. My only problem is that my facelift speedo/rev panel is missing a fixing clip leg so really wanted to replace this before getting the coating done. http://www.wtp-technics.co.uk/index.php
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Standard interior :Pling:the seats dont look as bad in real life dont photograph very well
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Is this still open as i would like some toooo;)
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Yes it should be tight even when newly fitted, if it wasnt the fluid would blow past the seal. The recommended way to remove is with compressed air. getting them out by hand is a real pain as you cannot be sure you are applying a consistent straight pressure so the piston may then squint in the bore . Just did one on a four pot front and the only reason i did it by hand was because i knew i was replacing the piston and seal.