bobapple

Thanks mate, I think that articles is of the US forum to be honest in that Pdf it says to check connector/ harness, from what I could tell the relay only goes to the ECU as that was at the top of a pyramid table showing it going relay to ecu to actuator. So the relay either isn't sending out power or just not receiving it at all I think. But the relay is working as I swapped the abs and trac one round. I just read some more and found this, and now even more confused , .

http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA80%20TSRM/DI.pdf Info here for any wiring geniuses, starts around page 542.

If I were to pull the ABS one would, the ABS warning light come on ? As I just had a quick look and the trac and abs seem to be the same so if I swapped them round I would know ones buggered. Thanks Si Just went and tried this and yes it does stay on so swapped the relays round and the abs went off , guessing it's to do with the wiring it's self between relay and ECU. Any auto electrician magicians near Bolton way ?? Again Thanks Si

This is what the manual says for code 22. 22 Conditions (1) through (3) continue for 0.05 sec. or more: (1) ABS solenoid relay terminal (SR) voltage: Below 1.5V (2) Voltage of ABS ECU terminal AST: Battery positive voltage (3) When power transistor of ECU is ON, voltage of terminal SFL is 0 V or battery positive voltage. L ABS actuator L Open or short in SFLH or SFLR circuit

Where would I find this , when it says solenoid relay is it referring to the the ABS fuses, I get a code 22 and I think it is making my slip cont off light flash constantly. Thanks Si

Will you save me one till Monday mate. Thanks Si

Hijack - Sorry , I am also after these both sensors for trac and throttle. Again sorry for hijack.

Still after one of these. Thanks Si

A friendly match against other forums would be good, gtr forum vs mkiv forum for example. Will get you added mike when I get back home .

Just to add my ps3 gamer tag is Supra_Si be good to see you guys in the warzone .

That looks quality. Can't wait .

Thank you, sorry if it seemed a silly question as said still learning.

Right sorry to butt in, but I am going to, to try learn something . I understand the water is their for the bearing longevity but are you not putting quite hot fluid into something that is already quite hot does this not further the heat temps? And if it did is that extra temp pushed more to the hotside for effficiency?. Sorry if that makes no sense.

Sorry 93 tt jspec no fault codes. Thanks

Hey everyone, it has not done this for a while, but I did a short journey in it today left it 20-30 mins to go to bank came back and it refused to start.This has happened before and I am noticing it does it on short journeys more. Say if the cars revs have only just dropped to a normal idle then switch it off it won't start again?. I used to think it might be a immobiliser issue, but today I managed to force it to start by pumping the throttle as I noticed every time I had my foot down it gave a little splutter of live, I thought I was going to flood to be honest. It coughed into live and all was well. So asked around and was told possible throttle position sensor or water temp sensor as it's happening more when the engine is barely hot. Sorry for the essay and probably bad gramma but thanks for reading. Si

So he did roughly 14,000 miles between 2009 Sep and 2010 feb . Thats a average years driving in 6 months.

Sorry to hear this, I am sure I remember reading on here someone snapped a cam shaft which made a horrid rattly noise if memory serves me, maybe worth a quick investigation. Again sorry to hear this.

I had this problem used to get warning triangle and engine warning light pop up at certain speeds and load. Thor rewired my odo not sure how , but no more code 42. This will then allow you to find out if you have any more fault codes I had a rear wheel sensor out which didn't show until 42 was cleared though the ABS light did come on intermittently. Though up to now no one can work out why my slip cont off light is flashing, though not too bothered as it just means the crappy traction control system isnot working.

Mr T did think of everything didn't they. The only thing is that is at the back of the car isn't it ? so surely he would need it to fail in reverse to flip the car wouldn't he ? I personally would leave it or as suggested earlier get one fabricated. Safety features are always a good thing.

My world has ended, I have ran out of beer .

Reminds me of a CWest one don't quote me though .

Maybe one for you've been framed you might have £250 sat in them few seconds .

So happy you edited that vid

That sounds a fair price as they cost roughly £1200 new I know a rear alone is £330 obviously fronts are slightly less. New tyres cost me £700 all round so yeah a good price cant see them being here for long.

Mine is a 93 pre face lift original , but if I were going to search for another I would look for a facelift, nothing to do with looks or mechanical reasons, just the fact it's newer. Saying that if their was a known good pre face lift, up for sale to a unknown could be dodgy face lift I would get the pre face lift. At the end of the day you can make a Supra look and go how you want. The only thing I have heard is that VVTI are a nightmare to tune the engine, so that depends on how fast you wanna go .