matthewm1965

There should be a couple of screws holding each aero clip in place. Then a few screws behind blanking cover dics that hold the plastic trim.

My local body shop fitted one of those for me a few weeks ago. Said it was a real pain. End result not brilliant. The surface seems to have crinckled in a couple of places.

The voltage fluctuating up and down every second indicates that it is working correctly. It's when it stays at one setting or only moves up and down slowly that you have a problem.

Are these still available?

All sorted now. I went out this morning and bought a decent SP socket and 1/2" T bar. The plugs then came out no problem at all. All put back together with new plugs and leads, and is purring like a kitten! I'd like to say roaring like a lion, but it is an N/A after all The original oil leak was caused by the cam cover screws all being finger tight only. They have never been touched in the 2 years I've had the car. Thanks to all thosw who gave advice... Cheers Matt

It's one of the blue handled Halfrauds ones that I'm using. I'll go out in the morning and get a proper T bar and socket. If warming it up is the best way, then I'll do that. It'll be a pain putting all back together again, but if it works it'll be worth it. thanks for all the advice.

The water has only been there for about 24h. There is probably more oil in there (from the cam cover gasket leaking) than anything else, so it shouldn't be corroded. The area around the plugs looks fairly clean. I don't have access to compressed air, but I do have a suction thing that I use for the oil changes. I'll use that to remove as much as I can from around the plug recess.

As you say, I have gone to all the trouble removing the throttle body to get access to the plugs, so I can't realy warm the engine up! Though if it's the correct way to go, I could put it all back together again.... :-( So no one has snapped a plug or stripped a thread, removing a plug? I'll go and get a bigger bar and suitable socket tomorrow morning and give that a try. Thanks

Not posted in a while, as the Supe as been behaving itself, but after cleaning the engine to discover the source of an oil leak, I must have got a bit of water into the spark plug area (despite being careful!). It has developed a misfire. I have bought a new set of HT leads and plugs and have now removed the throttle body to gain access. The problem I have is that the spark plugs are F tight and I’m unable to remove them with my Halfrauds plug spanner. What are the risks of damaging something by using a socket with a bigger bar on it to give a bit more leverage? I would hate to strip a thread or snap a plug. Any hints or tips anyone please. Thanks Matt ’93 N/A

There's only one on mine, black. Mine is a '93 model, later ones may be different?

The N/A is the single wire type

As a freelance contractor, I use Sage Instant Accounts, which I think is the entry level package. It can be a bit tricky until you get used to it. Great for VAT returns, unless you are on the flat rate scheme.

I used to work at the Kenco coffee factory in Banbury. Being staff, you could buy the tassimo discs for next to nothing. I've still got a cupboard full of the things 4 years on !!

Keep the stock intake system. Much better than the HKS system. IMHO. Hope you get as much enjoyment out of it as we get out of ours.

I'd kill for £94 a month !! Last winter the gas bill was £300/month (yes month, not quarter) and the electric was £150/month !! That comes from having a big house and a cold wife. I have got double glazing on order and am in the middle of fitting a new high efficiency boiler, so hopefully things will improve. Matt

Matt & Lorraine from Sacriston

This mornings little project on the Supra was to get rid of the HKS mushroom air filter that was on when I bought the car, and go back to the stock system. I picked up a stock air filter box on ebay a few weeks ago and decided it was time to fit it. Only took half an hour but am well pleased with the results. The biggest difference is how much quieter the car is. Taking it out for a test drive, it seemed to have a bit more low down torque, and overall felt smoother. Time will tell if fuel economy is any different. Its an N/A so not looking for power increases, just an enjoyable driving experience, which this simple “de-modification” has improved.

My son got scammed by that trick. Thought he was downloading AVG, used his credit card to pay for it. The money started disapearing faster than he could catch it!! I have the fully paid for AVG on the home pc but didn't have time to put it on the laptop before I came away.

Following on from SupraGirlies thread last week about a computer virus, I hope you got it sorted in the end. I got home from work last night, fired up the laptop and connected to the net to download my email. The first thing that I noticed that was strange, was that the bottom task bar had change to white from its normal blue (windows XP). Then I noticed that the anti-virus software icon, AVG free 8.5, in the notification bar had changed colours also. Hovering the mouse pointer above this gave the balloon message “Ante Virus” instead of the normal “AVG Anti-virus Free”. I went to the start menu to start AVG, It had disappeared! Luckily I had an install application of AVG in a directory that I keep for such things. I rebooted the laptop after disabling all the startup services using msconfig. Re-installed AVG and ran a complete scan. Apart from a few dozen tracking cookies that I’m not too concerned about, it indicated that a bit of software called “flac frontend” contained a virus. I had downloaded this a couple of months ago for decoding some music files and not used it since. After another reboot and an AVG latest definitions update and another scan, everything seems to be back to normal. The thing that concerns me is that a virus has not only got past AVG without flagging anything up, but has disabled the anti-virus software and replaced its icons with fakes! AVG is supposed to be one of the better anti-virus software packages out there.

I remember a few years ago, they wouldn't let me into Rock City because I was dressed too smart!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/97-98-Toyota-Supra-Crystal-Clear-Bumper-Indicators_W0QQitemZ380134195668QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5881c381d4&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A30 Have just purchased a set of these. Not tried to fit them yet, as not at home. I am also after a loom, so if you find a part No., post it up.

I have been with the AA for 25 years. Used them quite a few times and never had cause to complain. The last time I hadn't even broken down. The water pump was leaking and I didnt want to risk further damage by driving 200 miles home. I told the guy, "water pumps gone", He just took my word for it, never checked, put it on the low loader and took me home.

Our pet rabbit just died this morning. Wife & Daughter very upset:cry: Used to love watching it run arround the garden digging holes.

I agree its one of the best upgrades you can do. I went for the 4300k colour, but thats personal preference. I only converted the diped beams and found that I rarely need to use main beam now as the dips are so good, so probably wont bother upgrading them.

Is it worth fitting HID main beams? They take about 20 sec to get to full brightness, and you're switching on...off as you're driving. I have fitted HID to the dipped beam and find them so good that I never need to use main beam anymore. Currently saving up for a pair of glass headlights to replace the yellowing plastic ones. Think they look so much better.