j_jza80

The more i read, the longer the bargepole that i wouldnt touch that car with becomes.

Yes. The whifbitz dct conversion achieves this, although it is an automated manual box. But the SRD isf 8 speed swap is an auto, and apparently that bkx is capable of faster shifts than the notoriously quick shifting dct box found in the r35 gtr.

all around the windscreen and rear window seems to be a common area on these cars, one I saw a few years ago had only just come from japan and the drivers A pillar had almost rotted completely through. Think they did a poor job on the paint around the glass. Another couple of places worth checking are under the windscreen scuttle, and on the roof of the shell, in the recess where the rear hatch hinges are. I've seen many of them have surface rust here, which will turn nasty if not sorted.

Boost creep is exactly what I meant (in the middle of an essay and my head is still buried ) Was it the Amuse kit that utilised the stock exhaust manifold using an adaptor, as you have above? I remember those, think they were discontinued many years ago.

Nice I run the GTX3576R turbo (which I bought from you), even on a HKS tubular manifold this is realistically as quick spooling as the car can cope with, and thats on a tiptronic with a TRD LSD. on a manual with a log manifold the GTX30 setup would be savage. Wouldn't running such a small turbo result in a lot of surge? And similarly, a small turbo with an integral wastegate would presumably exacerbate this? This would be worth a look at re: your log manifold, nicest log manifold I've seen for these cars; http://fsrmotorsports.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=29&Itemid=87&vmcchk=1&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=87

Nice id love a california sage db9 coupe at dome point, still one if the best looking cars ever imo, especially these earlier cars. Also, the stock exhaust manifolds look very restrictive, some tubular ones with free up some power, but more importantly they will make it sound properly exotic.

IMO any performance loss/gain over a conventional flange (t3/t4 etc) will be marginal, the advantages and disadvantages lie in the way both types fit and seal, vband being easier to fit and remove, and having a more consistent seal with no need for a potentially troublesome gasket, but a little bulkier so may be more difficult to fit in some instances. You would need a decent divided V band manifold in order to use one of those turbos though.

That may be the case, but the tt6 has a heavy clutch pedal and gear action, the auto is effortless and crawls forward in traffic at a decent pace without using the accelerator. I've had 2x 6 speeds and 2x autos (well, 1 auto and 1 tiptronic, as well as an auto gs300 which is very similar), even with a relatively light RPS clutch my single turbo 6 speed was a pig in traffic compared to the auto cars, and my totally stock NA 6 speed was barely any better. Auto wins hands down for any sort of daily driving or city use, manual only comes into its own for twist B roads or on track.

Daily: auto / tiptronic occasional weekend toy/ sunny weather car: manual track car: manual drag racer: auto But buy the best car that you can afford. If it is a choice between a bottom of the market manual and a clean auto, get the auto. Similarly, if it's a toss up between a clean NA or a 'project' TT, go with the NA.

Ive seen cars in Japan spoilerless from pretty much all model years, the only caveat being that spoilerless seemed more popular (relatively speaking) for NA's on earlier cars, but towards the end of production it seemed to be the RZ-S twin turbo which was most commonly spoilerless. Thats not based on any figures, purely my observations of the japanese auctions and dealer stock.

No doubt thats why they drink the "chacha". Bet that stuff is potent

£25k will certainly get you a 6 speed manual TT, but it wont be of an especially high standard these days.

the B&M one also sold in Germany? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?239811-Low-level-rear-spoiler

You see some stock spoiler-less cars going through the garages and auctions in Japan, though they are quite rare.

You would get much more than £21k breaking it. Great car

Doesn't look like it would be difficult to install rubber boots on the front lower balljoints.

While these cars are exceptionally well engineered and built, you have to remember that they are getting quite old, and at one point they were a £40k plus car when new (£70k allowing for inflation), so when things need replacing, it can be very expensive.

Nothing to do with Yorkshire, just my inability to spell words with more than two letters

This is a particular issue with copper. Thry used to fit sacrificial annodes to copper cylinders, but they found that the annode would actually cause the destruction of the tank in many cases, as the annode would do its job, but the local corrosion would first destroy the wire suspensing the annode, which caused it to fall to the bottom of the cylinder, which would then rot through very quickly.

Great setup for someone who wants something better than a cheap springer. the fit and finish of these Weihrauch rifles is just sublime.

The new Polestar coupe sounds like it will be a monster. Good looking car too https://www.pistonheads.com/news/general/polestar-launches-as-independent-ev-manufacturer/36916

Personally I'd say an E46 would be a better thing to spend money on at the moment than an E92, prices have already started going up for good ones. You can get a lot of XKR for that sort of budget too.

It is unusual for any 2 cylinders to have tappings in the same place, and depending on the size of the cylinder and the area you live in (really) they can be male or female threads, or even 22mm or 28mm compression fittings. Also check to see if your existimg cylinder has a coil (some even have 2), immersion heater bosses etc. Most immersion heaters now have a thermostat built in, but some have a separate 'stat. I would, however, change the tank. Usually by the time you acrually realise you need a new one, the existing one has rotted through entirely. Dont use flexi's, use copper tube. You can use plastic pushfit, but i wouldnt on visible areas like an airing cupboard. I believe it is good practice to use sweeping bends rather than elbows where needed on the cylinder connections of gravity systems.

I think theyre made of a different, lighter material.