j_jza80

The yellow wire on all DIN stereos needs a constant 12v feed the 12v ignition wire is the red one. Having them backwards would only normally wipe the memory when the ignition is turned off. Have you checked to see whether the stereo is in a Demo mode?

First of all, those looms are in a horrendous state, and won't be helping anything. Didn't you receive new ones with your facelift lights? Those horrid scotchloks need to go ASAP (those red plastic connectors) they are terrible things at the best of times, but you can see the wires in them are corroded. When you say "When I plug them in they light up wrong; The indicators light up the reverse lights", do you mean that when you turn the indicators on, the reverse lights come on as the reverse lights normally would, or are the reverse lights flashing? Always start with the easy stuff - are you sure you have the bulb holders in the correct place on the lights? IE, are the looms mixed up or installed backwards?

This might interest you... https://www.facebook.com/torquedevelopments/posts/10156197461694002

Volvo V70 D5 (P2 platform) Euro 3 (up to mid 2005). Will cover more miles than any competitor if its been looked after, and is a very reliable, comfortable car with a great sound system as standard. Will hold its value too. Not sporty, but still very nice to drive and have a great sounding engine for a diesel.

Yeah, check the alternator output.

Have a look at the crank pulley for the aux belt. You will see its made of two parts, with a rubber section and a metal outer that the belt goes on. They rubber seperates from the metal part over time. Get some tipex, paint a line over the rubber and the metal section, let it dry. Then run the engine, and when its warm give it a few revs. Shut the engine off, then have a look at the line you painted. If part of it has moved your crank pulley is dead, and must be replaced immediately. It can cause expensive damage if it lets go. DO NOT stick your head or hands anywhere in the vacinity of the engine bay with the engine running until you have made sure its safe.

Check your crank pulley ASAP. This is one of the symptoms before they let go.

Thats because he hasnt got his head around the combustion cycle RPMs have no bearing on it if the cam profile doesnt alter (vtec etc) high rpms are (as the name states) increasing the number of revolutions/ cycles in a given time, not changing the travel of the pistons or valvetrain.

This can be a truly awful job. Have they flared at the end where youve been trying to tap them out? Make aure you only use a correct sized punch. If you havent already knackered them, heating the pins up can help. Cutting the pins in the middle can also help if theyre still being stubborn. Worst case scenario they will need drilling out, which really needs a steady bench/ press drill.

A tidy bayside blue R34 gtr sold at a prominent british aution last year for £21k. Auctions are completely dependent on who comes out on the day, and are not an accurate indication of values

Bolster cup on in a minute, great if you like unique pre war race cars

Bolster cup on in a minute, great if you like unique pre war race cars

Some entertaining racing from the Capris there

Also on itv4 at 2

Apparently a common business practice of some dealers in High Wycombe (not mentioning any names) is to advertise nice cars to attract buyers, who find upon arrival that said car isnt there, and they get offered an alternative. But even terrible dealers can get nice cars, you just have to be extra careful. I would want it up on a ramp before considering parting with money.

I think that looks mega Though the roof may look a little bulky on the raod car without those arches to balance it out, but we'll have to wait and see.

From that link: uite indicative that its going to be more than just a concept, race only special, or a model, IMO.

Thing is, we know these things have been spotted testing all over the place for some time now, so a production ready car cant be far away.

IMO adding that much extra weight is dangerous, the mounting points, subframes, bolts, suspension etc were not designed to cooe with that. Any insurance company worth their salt would be insisting on a report from a qualified engineer before insuring it for road use.

What a heap

If not, it wouldnt be too difficult to get one made.

That dab aerial might work with the metal ferrule in the s2000 aerial conversion

From what I gather the originals were made by B&M Brune for Toyota, and installed at the dealerships.