MartinBattye
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Everything posted by MartinBattye
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yet bare in mind that with the HKS ecu's they only pick suitable candidates to tune them.
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nope.. :rolleyes:
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DCR calcs are a bit of a secret.... there is always tons of talk, but no noones that actually knows will say anything.. me included
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i;d agree on this too.. PPI supra had this exact problem on dyno recently! cured with a GTR res pack and some pushon crimps!! ghetto
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the tune put on would be regarded as a safe basetune (i would say about 6-8degs retarded at a guess) for the road to get it running ok.. not by anymeans a power tune (as there where engine worries to start with, and at the time phil hadnt even got the hang of manual trans!) that tune was done about 2-3years ago now i think. i know the table you mean too... ive only mapped 1 rotary motor!! lol.. (most powerful in europe) bitching aside... my IAT table made sense... lol only messing.
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you would use a crows foot spanner with 3/8 attachement... tbh that warning is there since the fittings are delicate.. just dont go mental with tight..
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fit it.. and dont worry.. many many cars are running with this sort of thing and most owners know nothing about it.. if there was a problem the WG penny would be in a mess.
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fit your springs.. then visit. Northampton Motorsport.
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the dyno i use is a unichip guy.. and is used to more exotica. the company is Marlin Motorsports in milton keynes.
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its all about cam choice. static CR means nothing really apart from a number to quote..
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there will more than likely be a hardware fault.. running that badly by just chaging the inlet is unlikely.
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i hear you were quite complementary about the car and the base tune..
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remember to make sure you set your injector settings in the Vipecv88 for peak and hold
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glad you found your problem... bogging was the understatement of the century... did you get ryan to look at fuelling on transbrake.?? very rich..(black smoking). i reckon your car has got a lot more punch in it yet.. that 10.0 looked good... but you'll have to be quicker than that for HKS series!! lol
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inconel type a and b mean nothing. you need type K thermocouple. some connection plugs and some compensation cable.. buy all from rs components.
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Tfr..
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Cigarette lighter inline fuse (is removal dangerous?)
MartinBattye replied to neo2810's topic in mkiv Technical
that is depandant on the cabling csa feeding the socket.. and the sockets A rating. the secondary fuse is to protect the cabling feeding the socket and the socket itself.. stops people plugging in items and melting wiring.. if you are happy that you arent going to accidentally plug a travel iron or kettle into it and use it for normals like phone charger and satnav then it is fine to remove.. -
aeromotive fittings and fuel rail fittings
MartinBattye replied to johnd-mkiv's topic in mkiv Technical
plus 1 on above post.. used them for Terminators build.. very customer friendly. -
for quick fix try unplugging the 02..
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you use a diode... so that that both your brake lights work normally.. and when your fog switch is on one of the brake lights stays on without backfeeding the other lights. better solution than losing two brake lights.
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open AEM. goto. sensors. cam/crank advanced parameters.. check stat synced stays on and check for errors. you can also log your rpm trace in the onboard logging.. (nice and fast) does your ignition fault occur at high load?? i.e boost misfire? if not its perhaps unlikely that its an ignition problem. do you have a WB02? could be a sensor on the motor giving incorrect reading and trimming fuel
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lol!! its good aint it!! nice ok bud ill hold you to that one..
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hahahaha!!! legend!!
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looks like a good build.. !!! notice how the rest of the forum ignore you cos your skidding it!!
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orange one with Rxmotors and MB Automotive on side.. Edit: ran an 8.7 @ 150something.. and some crazy tire hop you see leon's terminal!!! 177!