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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Stan

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Everything posted by Stan

  1. I thought UV rays faded carbon, and (I think) most waxes have some anti-UV properties, so I would think it'll help (plus it'll make the shine a bit deeper)
  2. I think people do that sometimes if they've sold the car outside of autotrader, but can't remove the ad themselves (but can only edit it)
  3. Love that rear spoiler, looks really good. Are those 19s? Oh, and we have very similar cars!
  4. Stan

    Tar Spots...

    As above, try leaving some of the tar remover over the tar spot before removing, it'll soften the tar slightly and make it easier to remove Claybar is the other option if you want to incorporate it into your wash routine Always remember to wax afterwards of course, as both claybars and tar removers will strip your wax layer
  5. Hmmm this might not help at all, but I know on preludes you can pull the mirror housing apart and remove the motor unit and replace if needed. I would guess toyota have a similar set up, but not too sure
  6. Literally drove off the roundabout as you were driving on to it, around 4pm today, did have a look but I don't think you were looking at me
  7. I would have thought they didn't make it like the MR2 because in the MR2 you can easily take 1 panel off at a time by moving the handle down, lifting the panel, and putting the handle back into position. If they did it on the aero, whereby the handles would be on each side of the aerotop, there would have to be some system where the handle stays down otherwise the pins will ping back out and hold that side of the roof in place. If the handle did stay down and then you ran round the other side to undo the other handle and lift the roof out, you would then have 2 handles sticking down which you would somehow have to put back so it fits in the boot fine That make any sense???
  8. http://www.chemicalguysuk.com would be the best bet as it is the UK distributor for Chemical Guys products, I have gotten all my CG stuff from there and the bloke who runs it is really good with service etc. Good choice of product though, it's a fantastic product. I'd recommend applying some CG vertua bond308 beforehand to give it a really good surface to stick to. If you want a code for 10% discount off your order as well, it's DW1 HTH
  9. I've got a set of these from ebay, £60 all in and includes slim ballasts rather than the larger old style ones, which is a bonus. Have been fine for almost a year now
  10. I've got the conlight as well and was told it automatically turned the headlights on. Can't make it work though, not too sure how it works or what it plugs in to (can only see 2 wires trailing down the side of the dash)
  11. Coroners Officers will be your first point of call. It's up to you to choose whatever funeral director you want so don't feel pressurised into choosing someone - ring around when you are feeling up to it to get some ideas about what they will charge you and go with whomever you feel comfortable with. There is nothing stopping you choosing someone from your area. You may need an Out Of England certificate (not sure on the rules when it's Scotland), but the Coroners Officers will normally arrange that for you and it will be sent to the appropriate mortuary. Usually the body will be released from the Coroners Officers point of view after the post mortem and the subsequent findings. If nothing is found then it can take a couple of extra days for tests to be run, but try not to worry, this often happens so don't let it get to you or anything. The Coroners Officers will arrange for the death certificate to be issued (around here it's called an B form but may be different in Scotland), this is sent to the registrars for you where you will need to go to officially record the death. From your funeral directors point of view, they will probably go to collect the body and drive it back, that is how most of the funeral directors work around here. They may subcontract someone else to do it, but they will also be a funeral director, and that is quite common to happen this way as well. If you want any more advice away from the forum just PM me, I'm a anatomical pathology technician in a mortuary so know how most of this stuff works. Just take your time over things and don't rush into anything, it will eventually become easier for you.
  12. Something to do with the aerotop conversion I guess?
  13. As above, down to your employer and what they class as 'immeadiate' family. AFAIK grandparents aren't classed as that where I work
  14. If applying by hand, then meguiars ScratchX is what I've found best (use on a MF towel to give it more 'bite') If machine polishing, I tend to favour poorboys SSR range but will happily use Chemical Guys polishes as well
  15. Looks to be similar to the silverline rotary polishers. I've got a silverline orange as it has the slow start feature. As long as you are careful and keep the pad moving you won't burn the paint (and don't go higher than about 2/3 of the max speed it can go), common sense is the key here, and research how soft paint can be (and spend an inordinate amount of time on detailing world!!!!) I'd invest in some proper pads as well rather than what they supply with it, I have chemical guys Edge pads, but it's personal preference really. As for the 'breaking' comment, mine has been fine for coming up to 3 years use now
  16. For quick hand application, Meguiars PlastX is my choice, it'll remove a lot of oxidation and minor swirls. Handy to use on the rear lights and instrument dials as well However there is no substitute for the sandpaper/cutting compound method really, as shown about that'll really get them clear again. Just be careful if you use a rotary polisher as opposed to a random orbital, leave it in place too long and it'll melt your lights (I know from experience )
  17. People might not be impressed, but there is no law (afaik) governing taking pictures in public. It is only if you trespass then you have a problem. At least Google are responding to individuals who don't want there picture on there, and most of the pics I have seen have peoples faces blocked out already
  18. My point was kinda that anyone can effectively see anything the google cameras have already taken photos of, obviously it would take more time/money to go see things, but it is possible. If I do get a PM asking me to remove it, then fair enough. As for the 'assumption' by Google, they aren't doing anything wrong in the eyes of the law, I guess it'll be down to individual cases (of which I think a few have already happened) whereby people didn't want their pictures being on there if they were doing something they shouldn't
  19. Can't see what is wrong with that? I don't cover my house up during the day, so anyone can see it who walks past, no different really. If anyone can find his house somewhere in Norfolk going from a house number, then I'd be impressed
  20. Fun to do to colleagues computers as well
  21. Here's my Supra at Soop Doggs house (before I brought it, so must have been before August last year), note the 'Supra parking' sign on the house as well http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/1520/suprasio.jpg (can't see anything that would give away the location either, let me know if there is anything on there)
  22. Saw today just driving past the Costessey P&R in Norwich around 4.50pm, I was in my civic though so you wouldn't have seen me
  23. Group buy sounds like a good idea
  24. Wasn't me, don't think I have it out enough to be spotted! Might have been bluecoup?
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