adi

id agree... its hard to tell from that test. In a straightline with equal traction the torsen diff acts as an open (ie non LSD) diff. All it takes is a bit of uneven road or tyre pressure and the results may well be different.

nope that test doesnt work with torsen diffs, they work differently from conventional LSD.

To be honest, im no expert, im only going on what i read up about my torsen and are going from memory. But im 99% certain an 'open diff' is a conventional non lsd diff. The torsen only works as an open diff when the car is in a straight line, and no other time. so in effect... no.. an open diff is not an LSD, torsen or otherwise. If you were told your car has an open diff then its 90% likely you have got a non-lsd fitted. Oh, and apparently torsens cant be economically repaired and have to be scrapped... so no repair kit is available for them. The only way to be sure is by the chassis code i guess.. oh, and ignore most mechanics unless they work on cars like the supra regularly, as they will just take a guess as to what it is.

An 'open diff' is just a non-lsd type diff. A torsen is an LSD but which works by mechanical means rather than clutch type/viscous LSD. The LSD part of torsen diffs dont wear out *ever* but i suppose its possible for the gears or bearings to go.. not really sure. If you do decide to fit another diff try and find a torsen unit.. they're generally accepted as being the better. Having no VIN plate sounds extremely dodgy.. you got all the relevant paperwork that checks out?

The one i'm fitting is 200x120x30, 10 row.. anyone know if it'll be up to the job?

A transmission oil cooler? Even mocal ones are available from £30+, although one for the supra would probably be around £80. Im fitting an 'unbranded' version soon for my auto...hopefully without losing any fluid in the process as i've got £130 worth of new stuff in the gearbox. I think the size i've got will just do the job. As far as i can tell, its a process of clamping the lines, extending the piping, mounting the cooler somewhere in the front of the car and plumbing it all up. At least i hope its that easy.

A lot of strange things go on in branston.. best not to go there at all..

fraid not.. just saying good to see another lichfield/derby owner on the groups ! I'll keep an eye out for you..

Is the sensor embedded in the manifold or a seperate unit ie perhaps attached to the bulkhead? I could do with getting hold of one if anyone has one ?

not all of them though.. most are trade counters only...

To be honest the pieps probably arent as shiny as they appear on the pic, but they are a *lot* better than the standard looking ones. Its difficult to get the edges of the pipes near the flanges smooth though.. and yes you really need to fit new gaskets if youre taking the pipes off the turbos... i cant vouch for the 2JZ but taking the pipes off isnt an easy job on mine, the heat shield, water pipe brackets and a few other bits and pieces have to come off. probably not worth it unless youre taking the turbos off anyway.

The pipes on the 2.5tt are the same sandcast ones that are on the mkiv TT (the whole engine is very similar) I spent ages rubbing them down with wet and dry until they were flat, then down to a finer grade coupled with autosol, then down to wire wool and autosol, then a final polish. I wouldnt have bothered but my turbos were at TT and i was bored.

I ploished my aliminium inlet/IC pipes about four months ago.. and they havent tarnished at all with no treatment/lacquer... still as shiny as when i did them.

I think they combined the 'pwr' and 'manu' mode into one button on the mkivs rather than having two seperate buttons as in the late mk3's.

Manu mode and power mode will both stop the ignition from retarding.. although i cant remember if the mkiv box has a power button.

Matt, that definately sounds like normal operation caused by the gearbox retarding the ignition.. its meant to do it to allow for smoother changes.. its not noticeable with a stock exhaust but a decatted or aftermarket exhaust willl make the noise. the change in the ignition timing will also drop the boost pressure. Is it less noticeable with the 'pwr' button pressed on the gearbox?.. this normally cancels the igition feature of the gearbox.

The deep 'drone' from the exhaust sounds to me like the gearbox retarding the ignition, as it should do, and sounds like normal operation to me. The exhaust note normally drops, 'farts' a bit, and then goes back to normal after the gear change. Theres always going to be some release of boost pressure between shifts.. generally its not noticeable, but with an aftermarket BOV it may be exaggerating it a bit. Dont forget that the gearbox retards the ignition.. you cant expect the turbo to still be producing max boost during this. Your description sounds like normal operation. On an auto i'd personally stick to the stock BOV, as autos do funny things to boost pressure when changing.. probably most aftermarket BOV's are made for on/off boost pressure that you get with a manual. PS im probably technically incorrect, but it kinda makes sense.. i think, maybe...

I get a bit of a wobble at around 2500, someone suggested checking the rear gearbox mount, known for going on some toyotas.

i'll take that as a no then... what do you lot put inyours? Are the mkiv diffs torsen or clutch/viscous?

Hi all, Does anyone know what is the best type/brand of oil to put into a torsen diff? Are there any compatible redline oils or similar? Cheers adi

digitally, check http://www.trlperformance.com for info on what you need to do to convert it. http://www.trlperformance.com

Just keep at it.. they *know* they havent done the work.. all you have to do is convince them that *you* know they havent done the work.

yep i took mine in once for a mixture/emissions check.. and when i came back it had been washed as well ! the head mechanic there is a bit of an enthusiast so i think he must have done it.. mind you he also took the roof off one day when taking it for a test drive .. sneaky.

Thats normally it.. oil change and checkover. that little stamp in the service book has a lot to answer for.. Howver, thats VERY expensive price.. mine was under £100 when i used to get it done.

yep i realised after Syeds post and read up that its a big no-no. Redline normally compensate for any type of gear oil by adding another one to their range, im suprised they havent done this already.. Whats special about V160?