adi

ah right cheers Chris.. No prob to replumb it.. i'll just swap the two connections over.. i presume it wont make a difference to the pressure sent up it if its right angled off by putting it at the top connection? Logic says no but i gotta ask, dont want to be running lean now do we..

Its two way though Ian, i can blow through both sides so it cant be that.. unless its broken , which i suppose is a possibility. perhaps its a smoother .. possibly to prevent boost spikes being fed to the sensor? I have no idea really.. just guessing. It could also house some kind of filter to prevent the sensor from getting clogged with any oil from the manifold.. who knows. Im going to run the car tonight with just the straight through new bit on and see if it does anything dodgy.

DOH !! just realised.. i could have used a different adaptor at the back of the boost gauge which would have allowed me to use vacuum pipe ! Oh well, i suppose the nylon pipe is a bit more sturdy for routing through the firewall i suppose.

you can see it here in the pic.. is that the type of hose that feeds most of your gauges? If so how did you plumb it in to the vacuum pipe?

I did... with a plastic T piece.. but the hose that feeds the boost gauge is 4mm o/d nylon hosing... and it doesnt fit onto the T piece. I bodged it on using a bit of tubing and some glue but it blew off at full boost !! Twice !! After considering its not worth the risk of making me run lean so ive decided to do it this way.

oh.. and heres my new bit...

hi.. this is a 1JZ question so prob not apllicable to the mkiv's but i thought id ask anyway seeing as its a general technical question... Ive just replaced the part below for a bit which allows me to plumb in my boost gauge into the map pressure line.. The old bit (which went between the MAP sensor pipe and the inlet manifold)) is a funny shape, and it isnt a straight through hole from one side to the other.. it appears to follow a route inside the part, perhaps going through some filter or something to straighten/restrict the air flow... now, my new bit obviously doesnt do this (air in - air out)and i'm wondering if it will cause any probs to the MAP sensor. I cant fit the adapter *and* the original air bit on as there isnt enough room.. Anyone know if the stock piece is designed to tamper with the air flow in some way? Like i say, i dont think you have this piece on a mkiv but maybe someone with a bit of tech know how would know the answer? Cheers adi

yep same with me.. £1500 for Hybrids from Giles..

I'll scan a pic tomorrow of them.. they look the same as the one above but with no blue bits..

That one is made by cusco , abvailable from takakaira for about £50+shipping. The one i'll be fitting looks exactly the same but with no window and i can buy it for £35 from up the road. Seems a very useful bit of kit for such a low price.

pic

blimey you make it all sound very complicated.. i hope you mean the same thing i do.. one of these.. (pic below) I was just going to fit it to tart my engine up and to prevent any oil from going into the intake.. dont really need one but needlessly want one

Hi all, am going to fit a catch can... Is one much the same as the other? wIll i have to get a certain size or something? Am i right in thinking it slots between the pipe going from the cam covers to the inlet manifold?

yep dead right.. walk away. TIII is completely different stuff to T II or TIV.

Yep, you need the toyota stuff, no other will do, and yes its £25+vat for 4 litres.. and yes, its TII rebranded and improved and now called T-IV... and no.. dont put anything else in. Make sure they order you the *new* T-IV in the black and red can and not the old stuff.. it changed in May 2002.

Yep, but dont forget to check the codes first...

Youre hitting boost/fuel cut !! Thats all !! I hit boost cut a lot (until i sort it) and after the first few times the engine warning light just stops showing the fault,even though its still happening. This same thing will happen on yours (although i have a different model it is virtually the same engine system). Basically, the ECU shows it for the first few times and then stops warning you (no idea why). A simple check of the engine codes should tell you.. im sure it explains how to do that somewhere on this site. Fit an FCD off pete or something and as long as youre nor running too high boost you should be fine. Oh, and go back to your garage and tell them they're a pile of crap. There's something wrong with a garage who cant recognise a simple thing like boost cut, yet who are quite happy to recommend you fit things like boost controllers and even offer to set up an AFR for you.

Hybrids are simply one offs (sometimes eventually put into production) made to a particular specification. They can have anything from enlarged housings and turbines, 360 bearings, steel blade replacements, blah blah There is no set specification. They can have whatever the builder/customer wants. 90% of the time they are machined from the stock castings, but dont have to be. You can have an aftermarket turbo modified. In which case it becomes a hybrid Garret or whatever. Normally they have the bulders plate stamped onto the housings.. but not all the time.

Mine does it a bit.. it helped when i sprayed some - wait for it - 'Halfords Rubber and Nylon Lubricant' on the strips.. apparebtly good for stuff like this. Also, a lot of the creaks come from the plastic fittings becoming aged...not much you can do about that really..

Just found out this is the older type with the horn type exit rather than the little air filter.. apparently not as quick response? Anyone know about the old type?

I like the sound of the gerbil truck thing.. might be worth it then i reckon.. and they're adjustable so best of both worlds i guess !

BLitz super sound bov's... does anyone know if they are any good or what pressure they hold? cheers adi

Honest ! the 1JZ has full boost very very low down the rev range.. almost instant ! the stock turbos are tiny and very light just for that purpose No error codes but after repeated faults the ECU stops giving them (as noticed with my boost cut)... so i could still have them stored... battery gone flat now anyway so id need to drive it again to make some appear. The general mk3 stuff doesnt apply to the 1JZ mk3.. its more mk4 than mk3, same for the gearbox.

There is only one sealed part.. ie nothing to pull apart .

The symptoms are going to sound a bit daft.. Basically, when in a powerbrake situation ( foot on brake, and raise the revs), i know that the engine and gearbox would eventually overcome the brakes and makes the rear wheels break traction and start to spin, or at least twitch, at about 1800 or more revs. Even the TSRM for the mk3 states that at 1800 revs with both the footbrake and even the handbrake fully engaged that the power still eventually get through and cause the rears to start spinning. Mine dont.. even at 2400 revs and with my foot planted back hard.. the engine just struggles against the gearbox and the rears sit there motionless, even with light half pressure braking. I can just about make them spin in the wet but its difficult. I also get appalling takeoffs, up to three seconds to hit 30 mph. Also, as far as im aware, with a stall rate of 2400 (as my box has) that on a normal takeoff the engine should 'slip' up to the stall point on a spirited drive away. If i plant my foot back in a normal takeoff the revs dont slip at all, yet rise steadily with the movement of the car..slowly until hit 300 when it flies. Someone has suggested i may have a 'broken one way clutch (sprag) in the stator of the torque converter' or poor line pressure, either by solenoid trouble or something else. Unfortunately my gearbox is *impossible* to find info on (A342E).. and i do mean impossible... very very impossible... hence i cant find out whether this is a feature of the gearbox , or a fault. Turbo lag has been suggested, but it was doing this when i had my stock turbos, and they produced virtually no lag (almost full boost avalable at 2000 rpm).