Dan8

Thanks Noz top man I was using a GTE oil pump anyways just for the apparently better flow characteristics and pressure it has but I didn’t know it was part of producing the signal element side of things Does this mean I still need the TT crank pulley as well as Style mentioned just piecing it all together thanks for the help people

I wondered why some of the links I was trying to use view pictures relating to there site wouldn’t load that’s a shame why would they just let all that info go The main thing I was curious about is that timing spike the NA has at 4500 rpm and using the TT ecu and coils And how it effects it or does it flatten it a bit as the dizzy pickup still controls the signal doesn’t it but only want to run lowish boost anyways And thanks Keith will leave it in place

Just a quickie while am stripping the head completely back ready for rebuild after skimming and new valve stems oil seals and lap the valves back in I was wondering do I need to run all this vacuum under inlet if I doing the NA-T route

Wow thanks lads for the advice it’s reassuring having a forum full of knowledge to guide you it’s appreciated I will have a good look into them style when I get some free time later and see what my best options are to suit my build and might get more bang for my buck buying it from over there then To be honest I am happy to run the stock intake as well mate and am not after a showy neat and tidy engine bay as long as it’s reliable that’s my main factor as not chasing bhp Figures and although my 5 speed box has already been rebuilt last year don’t want to blow it I looked at that Noz when I was researching using a TT ecu and coil packs has anybody had much success with this and does this look right to you I know stand-alone is the best solution and most tuneable but to get me running while I save and I have spare looms I don’t mind modifying one and keeping original for future ecu upgrades to revert back to

That’s a good shout fitting the TT crank gear now while it’s all out never thought to do that I will definitely be doing it now though as it’s the next stage really in terms of of progressing to more power and control and like you say future proofing tuning as it’s the common preferred method now thanks style I will be using stand alone management eventually it is just as and when funds permit but then I think if there will not be much opportunity to use the car as most things are cancelled now I could take my time and just build the engine and conversion and see where I stand finically at a later stage What inlet are you using Anything else anybody can recommend doing while it’s out and getting rebuilt that I may need to address later I removing the air con system I don’t use it anyways and will get the shorter belt and mod the power steering bracket

Thanks for the info I had to change the gasket anyways as it had let go at number 6 combustion chamber to water jacket in the head and was pressurising the system and making the temps run high if you let it I removed the head to just change the gasket then found my self doing a full NA-T while it was at this stage that’s what made me think of getting the block decked as well as the head skimmed as it previously blown and from your screen shot think I will do it better safe then sorry And am not surprised you removed the veneer it sounds lovely I like the way you left a little bit of it behind to take you back to that first time you drove it home surrounded by it in all its glory I didn’t know the supra would be that noticeable between the aero and hard top handling wise with all the over engineering the rest of the vehicle was blessed with from the factory but makes sense the roof is extra rigidity and sounds like a plan with your inspiration and styling mods I need to address my paint it needs a freshen and paint chipped along the OEM factory side skirts I will wait until my lips is fitted when I remove active lip and was debating trail rear but unsure as I like the factory skirts and spats but want a diffuser

Thanks I will try keron I want a polyurethane lips though does he stock these I will have to message him I would love a areo top I loved my Mr2 Tbar but a aero top supra would be unreal. I always find that you get cracks along the seams with any blended kit though it’s just natural for the flex to tire it and stress cracks appear especially as a daily or getting used for spirited driving It looks the part though in the pictures I had a peak at Nozs to am interested in seeing his manifold mod and it’s a proven NA-T build that has fantastic results from what I have seen Need to get as much done before I go back to work as possible made a start stripping the head and cams and valves definitely getting my block decked as I think it would be wise since it overheated. Am still debating wether to use another NA engine I have which I removed from my crash damaged supra I have as a spares as it was auto as well and ran great or do you think it would not be a issue if I got it decked I was surprised at how clean my cam carriers. Lobes. And buckets and bores were considering it had taken some abuse although was always maintained I haven’t measured any tolerances yet though

I feel your pain mate it’s that sinking feeling when you hear that familiar Crunching noise after your hard work and money gets trashed over something silly That’s what happened to my fibreglass TRD lip after I lowered The coilovers a bit to much for some daily use while my van was getting cam belt changed and it ripped it from bumper and jammed underneath leaving a smoke trail till I could find a place to stop as it was a traffic calmed area and had cars behind me Where did you get your lips from and what was fitment like I like the colour contrasts of your car looks really clean have you tinted the lights

I know I thought that when I came across it cause most of them are just advertises as HX35 16cm 12cm and what have you but that doesn’t give you turbine specs or housing And that looks great mate very nice I love them in that colour are they JDL wings and is it a poly front lip I want that front lip again I had fibreglass one but it broke into bits now I have active lip but thinking of changing it to that again

Same here buddy I was pleased you posted this thread its great to mull over ideas and share thoughts and information with others doing similar builds that’s the good thing about the forum community Personally I couldn’t afford the BlG branded name tuning company build and parts but still wanted to enjoy some forced induction but not skimp where the main contributing factors come into determining the reliability and drivability of the build which is for me full freshen of motor like you with TT gasket and ARPs a good wastegate and reliable turbo and a setup management such as a ultimate again like you for everything else I don’t mind trying to save a few £ here and there I found this when looking for a HX35 was quite helpful for me to determine what CM I was wanting for my build http://www.stavtech.co.uk/home/the-ultimate-holset-turbo-guide-probably#

I saw that manifold and wastegate but I was way to slow and beaten to it otherwise I think that would of done me I could of kicked my self I can forward you the email they send me as I requested exact specs of turbo and what’s included if that can help you in any way and let me know if you decide to go for it Same here I looked into them and that’s a fantastic all round turbo what size where you thinking of running cm wise I found that nearly all of them are T3 fitment though and not a lot of T4 but can always convert it over they quick spooling and strong it’s definitely one of my options I get over paranoid about using a cheap copy turbo that it might let go and destroy my newly built engine

Hi josh Am in no real rush now as most of the things i enjoy to go to maybe cancelled and I don’t use it often anyways I wouldn’t mind waiting how much do you have in mind PM and approx when are you looking at changing and why thanks Josh

I have looked into a branded manifold such as whifbitz etc etc but found them to be approx £540 VAT then postage and for £380 I could go for the 3mm thick walled twin scroll tubular XS power manifold take it to work and get the flanges checked and decked and cut the 4 HKS wastegate flange and weld a Vband in place as I have access to TIG welders and CNC cutting plasma cutters and various other millers and lathes but I am open to all options and appreciate any ideas or experiences the forum has to help me with my guidance as to which route I take

Hi I am in the same process as you due to having all this extra time to mess about in the garage while stuck at home and this thread seems like a great idea I been looking into the brand new XS power manifold thick walled tubular as I wanted to spend most of my funds towards a decent turbo and wastegate along with management otherwise I would go for a whifbitz or branded part I will be getting it decked though or at least checked the flanges are true and definitely changing the waste gate as Noz did to a Vband and he mentioned location flowing better GTE oil pump as has better flow and relief pressure higher and will also be porting it and opening the return drain up to make sure I don’t blow the seal and using AN10 breathers in the centre of the valve covers to a vacuum assisted breather catch can to help stop it with higher oil pressures The only reason I changing wastegate is for more precise boost control over the XS power one but they replied back to a email about a complete kit with Intercooler all piping and new manifold posted to UK for £1340 and the full specs of turbo I was considering doing the TT ecu mod and using the coil packs and wrx injectors it picks up the crank trigger signal from the distributor though I believe meaning you still need to keep part of it but I would much rather get a aftermarket management or similar You can also your 04 reg WRX injectors there plug and play straight swap no resistor packs needed just remover one of the spacer rings installed in the injector ends What turbo you thinking of opting for

Thanks for the advice that’s great I will definitely have to look into that With the budget for build in mind i was thinking of getting the new style XS power thick wall manifold and getting the flanges decked maybe bracing it and cutting waste gate flange and changing it to Vband to run a decent waste gate out of curiosity have you got a picture Noz and what manifold do you run I wanted to run a decent brand waste gate and turbo and management try save my funds for these and don’t want mega bhp from my conversion

Hi How much you wanting for the rings bud and might as well give me one for the rod bolts as well just out of curiosity Cheers

Hi I decided to tear the supra engine apart and rebuild it and restore the car while I was made furlough as had a few weeks to mess about I am rebuilding with a TT gasket and ARP bolts And the GTE oil pump new bearings etc etc as I wanted to go turbo for a while Don’t mind a bit of fabrication and have access to TIG welder and I don’t mind converting any manifolds to Vband Waste gate which is what I want to run or anything like that Any parts that you think I may be interested in that you have laying around drop me a message Many thanks

I didn't If I remove it all and replace this will it of caused to much damage to box already any way Is it easy to remove and press another in has the fly wheel got to be removed to get it changed then I had not changed anything though I changed both engine and box as complete units from donor supra to other Worth a shot though glad of the help

It was fitted by toyotech when I got my new standard clutch and flywheel ground and all fitted to my previous supra before it got a rear knock and was written of It was all perfect and running smooth an quiet then All I did was remove engine and box from auto and fit this The knock to the rear dented all the quarter far in and bent the rear wheel far from alignment is there any way this would cause damage to it I thought the prop shaft would have enough movement in and not cause this at all but just a thought

Just completed my auto to manual convention to my non turbo FiveSpeed and everything went alrght and straight forward I fitted the gearbox to the engine when it was all removed and fitted the almost new clutch and flywheel and new fly wheel bearing and thrust release and these where perviously in my own donorCar and in decent condition not any noise and problems at all with them but since fitting them to my auto conversion and refilling the box with oil it is now shinning loudly Any ideas I don't think it's the release bearing but if it was would it be loud whining I though it was mor of a rattle If it's the box I will need to but a replacement but what is rough prices for rebuild I am in Teesside area Any help and information really appreciated

I am just in the process of changing to manual I just fitted the pedals and master and slave cylinder is all in place ready to swap boxes and fit fly wheel and clutch I have the prop there to and gearbox cradle I did not know that the tunnel needed swapping though is there a lot of persuasion required to get it to fit into the auto tunnel

Am in the process of converting my auto naturally aspirated to manual turbo and just removed all my manual parts from my donor When I got the gearbox removed I was checking over it and noticed some slight movement side to side in the shaft that connects to the clutch is this anything to worry about

Cheers mate been abit busy lately but id like to meet up when i get chance, quick question who do you use for servicing round here i need my belts changing Dan

yeah thats mine mate off the road at the min getting bits done while its cold, thought you must be on here im getting a trail rear where was yours from and whats the fit like mate? Cheers dan

My missus see's this going past her every morning near the rimswell pub anybody off here?