Dan8

Is yours not NA-T herb or am I mistaken

I know what you mean about it been a pain to change plugs mate it annoys the life out of me too it’s one of the main reasons for wanting a ffim for my NA-T Are you getting power to the injectors test for this and get a metal bar put it against injectors and get somebody to turn on ignition and crank you should hear clicking usually as they fire have you checked harness main plug at firewall to ecu and all your earths there’s some under the intake manifold and one near rear of block and transmit ion to the firewall and another opposite side I think fingers crossed for you buddy

The pump is controlled by fuel pump Ecu drawing power from efi relay#2 from the fuses marked efi fuse#2 so if these are all okay and the pump ecu is working wire pump direct to power just to see if it kicks in

That hose you removed from fuel pressure regulator is just the vacuum pipe to manifold for it I think buddy like Noz says try wiring pump direct or crack hose at fuel banjo near inlet or at fuel filter but fuel will come out at pressure if pump kicks in which isn’t exactly safe

Hi The the hvac does it comes as a complete unit module

IMG_1408.MOV The videos of condition of the other panels hasn’t uploaded but can send through what’s app IMG_1408.MOV FullSizeRender.mov FullSizeRender.mov only silver panels remaining now

Dan is having trouble replying and making listings on my devices that I have used to log in to the forum and can’t reply to PMs so I listing these for him on my device Rider abs Trinitom has first offers if there still interested odo £120 Clock £60 Hvac climate unit £180 Centre panel £150 Ignition panel £100 top of dash panel above clocks £120 vents £40 can sell as a complete set for reduced price

Just digging out the instrument bezel this weekend been busy working mate

A £100 a side is probably a bit cheap and most likely under quoted you once the skirts are removed I reckon there will probably much more then they expected and unless there doing a poor job and quick in and out repair where by they just over plating over the rot to the closest decent bit of metal they can find and me personally would prefer to future proof it if the rest of the car is nice and good as it’s a worth while investment these days and prices rising As a welder fabricator by trade I would want to cut or replace the full sill and fabricate any poor inner chassis rails and sills including sealing and painting and cavity injecting it all as I go along Hope you get it sorted and start enjoying driving her again mate

Hi I got a few sets of dash panels and oddo and HVAC etc etc PM me

I have sent you Pm mate

I still have the annoying autos reverse warning buzzer but it’s not really a problem

I didn’t need to modify any when I did this buddy it worked fine just plugging it in

Hi mate did the valve in the picture lap back in ok in the end like or are the seats needing recutting did they not test the head at all then and are they moving through the guides ok Are they still leaking then or low compression at that cylinder what clearances and valve lash you getting with that bucket and shim at the cylinder Feel for you mate been so close to getting her started then this they should of pressure tested it and saved you some £

What size are the spaces please

Still got to finish mine my self the subframes out at moment hence it just been a base map

Hiya Nathan Have you registered your ecu over the LINK forum and signed up loads of info there I got a base map I can send you over I am running the LINK G4 Whifbitz turbo kit and FIC650 and walbro 450 just to get you started you tweak the rest mate

I found this from Izzy a while back while researching into it I solved it with master cylinder from Toyota Land Cruiser. Link:https://www.autodoc.co.uk/abs/7716685 and swapped the rod and reservoir from Supra master cylinder. But be carefull, the Land Cruiser cylinder has a plug on the bottom, you have to plug the hole. It looks like this: http://www.allfourx4.com.au/WebRoot/Store/Shops/allfourx4/54CF/8740/D0C2/463B/C691/C0A8/DA35/CB11/31410-60372A.jpg After this modification, everything works as it should My car has engine out box and rear subframe as been rebuilding the whole car but when the engine and box goes in which hopefully should be pretty soon now the weather is picking up I will let you know mate good luck with your build

I am also in the process of doing this conversion and I think it’s better if you use a bigger capacity reservoir and rod as well buddy think a land cruiser one

Picture hasn’t worked buddy I can’t see it

Hiya buddy picture would be great before proceed with payment please

Am i correct in the selection for standard bearings just wanted reassurance before ordering but obviously I will be Using plastigauge To check clearances the crank was all Well within spec ROD Numbers 2 2 1 2 2 1 Front crank No 1 1 1 0 0 1 Block number 5 5 3 4 4 5 3 Rear crank no 4 2 2 2 3 2 1 Rod bearing numbers required for ordering 3 3 2 2 2 2 Main bearing numbers required to order 4 3 2 3 3 3 2 It’s the first time I changed supra ones Toyota way that’s all Thanks for help

How you finding the clutch now for bite and drivability and noise mate now you have changed the master cylinder as I am about to purchase this for my NAT - - - Updated - - - How you finding the clutch now for bite and drivability and noise mate now you have changed the master cylinder as I am about to purchase this for my NAT

Mine did this and it turned out to be the viscous fan clutch engaging disengaging but mine was a NA changed the fan unit and it went away - - - Updated - - - Mine did this and it turned out to be the viscous fan clutch engaging disengaging but mine was a NA changed the fan unit and it went away

Pmd you mate