botachi

My car used to have a TH400 Supra before it was brought down to more useable power levels and daily useability (and before I owned it, although the TH400 transmission was part of the deal, which I eventually sold off.) I'm back with a 6-speed. It's pretty hard to use the TH400 everyday, I think the way the transmission works, you can't downshift from say 3rd to 1st until you have to slowed down to a complete stop to get the gears to downshift smoothly. It's also pretty expensive so not worth it and it's pretty low-tech

Hi Sanchi! Email Trial Tuning in Japan, they have an English speaking sales rep (American or English I think) who is very helpful. Trial has a 3SGTE engined Supra with I believe the Getrag V160/V161 gearbox in it. He might be able to point you out to the right direction as to how Trial Tuning did theirs. HTH!

Maybe get a surge / swirl tank as well? Either fabricated or SARD unit? I like the Bosch 044 but I used to have a twin Walbro set-up. The Bosch 044 pump looks, well, meatier, more substantial hehehe Where's the Bosch 044 pump made? Germany? The walbros are made now in Mexico AFAIK but there's a ton of them floating around that's fake and made in China which die out very quickly (that's not to say all or even most China-made stuff is cr*p by the way)

I'd go zero bling and get SSR Type-F Competition wheels. Simple, multi-spoke design. Not as light as the Volk / RAYS forged wheels but pretty close and far cheaper. Or if you want some bling, get the SSR MSR-1 Professor, three-piece wheels. Very nice and stylish with rivets and polished lip. Both designs go up to 19's. It should have a sticker with the dimensions and load rating etc in the inner rim.

I have the RPS triple-carbon clutch. DOn't know what exactly the model anme is, just saw it when we dismantled my car before (got it 2nd hand with the clutch already in). I love it, previous owner told me that RPS told him (yeah, maybe load of bull) that if you don't drag or drift the car everyday, the clutch should last forever. IMHO pretty happy with my RPS clutch, although the rattle can be very very annoying. But perfectly streetable, softer than stock.

I have the CUSCO cage in my car and it's got the optional lateral brace that goes from the main hoop / b-pillar post and onto the footwell. Pretty nice but a tight fir for my RECARO's. Not sure though if it's competition spec or clubman or simply a show piece. Very nice though being powder coated blue. However, nice as it is, I prefer the gauge being fabricated AND tested hehehehehe Wish I could get one of your cages there mate. PM me cost too just in case I get some extra dosh

Nice piping work! I'd consider fabricating a heatshiled around your air-filter to keep heat away from the intake AND the turbos will be noisier when spooling up dunno if you're into that sorta thing though. Overall, nice and clean install Get a RIDOX front bumper and RIDOX side skirts with the TRD rear wing, that would be fantastic! RIDOX looks pretty clean and subtle, and the TRD rear wing is a Toyota-designed and Le Mans / GT tested item so that would look clean too. Maybe a vented CF hood from Top Secret or Seibon would help shed weight, improve cooling and add more visual aggression OK the Top Secret hood is a bit OTT I think for what you're looking for but it looks great.

Tires might also be knackered which is why your tramlining is worse than usual. I run 265 fronts (285 rears) and it's just as bad as Porsche GT3's and the like with narrower front tires

if the starter motor won't even crank over but all other electrical functions work, then its not the battery. Check the fuse for the starter motor, check the wires leading to and from starter, and CHECK THE KEYHOLE coz mine had that problem, due to wear and tear, one of the wires there broke off CHEERS!

looks like a Kakimoto or RSR exhaust? Maybe even Fujitsubo? lol guessing but they don't look like HKS or GReddy items. It's the bolts and rivets that mark them out

Thanks Gaz, was trawling through the search engines and hadn't found the topic I was searching for before you posted. Thanks mate!

OK I'll start with me The brakes in itself are very very powerful, and very progressive and linear in their operation. Problem is the pedal is just too freaking soft! There's no air in the system although I am using Motul RBF600 and have removed the ABS system. That might be why the pedal is soft. The distributor of Motul has told me that RBF600 gives relatively soft pedal effort / pressure. The brake master cylinder is also relatively new, replaced in 2006 and having covered less than 1000 miles since then. From cold, the brakes are very grabby and powerful, but after a few miles they seem to "glaze" and lose a bit of stopping power and some feel but after a few more minutes \ miles they go back to normal, very powerful and very confidence inspiring. I believe I've only gotten my brakes to their ideal operating temp only a handful of times because there was a TREMENDOUS difference in feel and stopping power from 140-150mph to zero as opposed to 30-40mph down to zero. Ultimately my brakes are waaay OTT for my intended use (previous owner bought them and bolted them in, not me) of fast road and SOME trackdays in a year (6-8 events tops in a year) but the visual appeal is fantastic

Hey guys was wondering what's a safe boost level to run with the oem j-spec twins assuming the condition of the turbines are OK? I've got all the fuelling I need (800cc SARD injectors, Walbro pump, 6-an fuel lines) and Greddy E-Manage to map things accordingly, just need to know what's a safe boost level for these babies. People in the US say no more than 1 bar for the J-Spec twins as opposed to USDM spec twins able to do 18 psi reliably, roughly 1.35-1.4 bar. That's coz the J-spec items aren't as strong as the USDM ones. Here I've seen some guys boosting 1.2 bar on what appears to be J-Spec twins so am unsure what to do. Currently doing 1 bar now, and very happy But if MORE can be had, why not right lol ) My MKIV has no cats and has a straight through exhaust from the turbos to the muffler

changing the valve stem seals shouldn't be that much of an issue with the head on the engine right? My shop changed mine with the head installed. Maybe you wanna check out getting Ferrera valve stem seals instead of Toyota OEM? Slightly cheaper too got mine from MVP Motorsports, 61 U$ DOllars for all 24 seals

Cusco seem to have a very low-profile strut bar that might fit. Have a Top Secret CF bonnet on mine and there's barely enough room to clear the TRD strut bar