Supra_Scott

The only mod we did on the car was a fuel pump upgrade, it has worked fine for 17 years and only gave issue with the new 255lph pump fitted. I checked the wiring to the pump, pipework etc and all was ok. So then we looked at the supply to it. We tested the voltage to the fuel ecu and to the pump with the ignition off, on, and with the car running. The pump was receiving a steady voltage for the first few seconds with the car at idle, but then the voltage crept down to nothing and the car cut out. A good friend of mine is an auto electrician, and he confirmed our findings. We put a temporary 12v direct feed to the pump, bypassing the fuel ecu, the car then started and ran fine. So then he wired up a seperate supply as described earlier using the signal from the fuel ecu to switch a relay to put a seperate 12v onto the pump.

That looks about right to me. I can't remember what size relay we went for, I couldn't find much info on the current drain from the pump, guessing around 12a relay should do the trick.

We wired it so that the feed out from the existing fuel ECU fires the relay, which then puts power from an ignition live onto the new pump.So in theory all should work as Mr T intended.

It was the OE fuel ecu breaking down under load trying to supply the uprated pump. We ended up putting a seperate supply to the pump from the ignition live via a relay. Seems spot on now thanks.

I've just fitted a FSE Sytec 255lph fuel pump to my 1995 NA-T Supra SZ. The car starts and idles for approx 10 seconds then dies. It will start every time and there is fresh V-Power in the tank, but it just dies. I've had a test probe on the pump, the voltage supply to the pump starts to fluctuate after initially starting the car, then cuts completely. Has anyone has had experience of this? If I put a separate feed onto the pump after the car has started it runs fine. I was wondering if its because the Fuel ECU in the rear (wheel arch) can't supply the power required for the new pump of has the fuel ECU possibly had its day?! Thanks in advance.

What condition are the rear lights in?

I have for sale my electric folding and adjustable mirrors, painted in 040 white. The paint is in fantastic condition as i had them painted a couple of years ago because i didnt like the oem feature line/seam running around the mirror. There is a small stone chip on the passanger mirror just above the base, i only noticed this myself when the mirror was removed. Only selling due to having purchased some Ganador mirrors. £120 collected or plus Postage of £10. Paypal or cash on collection (buyer cover fees). Stainless FMIC cooling plate, made as a one off but similar to the majority of the popular designs. Again only selling due to purchasing an APR carbon replacement. £25 collected or plus Postage of £10. Paypal or cash on collection (buyer cover fees). [ATTACH=CONFIG]152629[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]152630[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]152631[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]152632[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]152633[/ATTACH]

Sold to Arron!

I'll give you a call over the wk end and sort something out.

I'll take the TT spark plug cover please. Is collection ok?

Fair comment, I was looking at the seat positioning in the photo, rather than the seatbelt location.

Is the yellow mark on the right hand bolster of the passenger seat a tear in the material?

Also do you know what dish type they are? See link http://www.5zigenusa.com/products/wheel/zr_plus.html Guessing type 2 front and type 3 rear?!

Are these still available? Have you got any fitted pics of the whole car side on please?

Are there any marks/scratches on the outer lense? I'm doing an LED conversion atm but the donor lights I have aren't clean enough.

Email with pic's and spec sent.

Replied. Sorry been hectic here.

I have a set of 20's on my Supra that I would sell. PM me if your intetested. For pics see my garage.

Pm'd

PM'd

I'm running a low boost kit myself, at 6/7psi u can safely stick with the standard n/a head gasket.

Felt the need to post on this thread just to back up the benefits and reliability if going na-t. I bought my Supra SZ 9 years ago when I was 22, completely stock and with 40k miles on it. Insurance was £2k due to my age and living in Birmingham. An import TT was un insurable for me, and UK TT's were out of my price range. My heart bought the car not my head. The standard power was great coupled with the rwd. Over the years I've got the car looking how I want it but did feel the need for more power. With the time/money and effort i had put into the car going NA-T appealed to me. I like the power delivery of a single and the cost using a secondhand kit sweetened the deal. I managed to achieve a so far reliable (for the last 3 year's to date) 374bhp and 404Nm torque @ 6psi boost for around £1200, I believe a good exhaust, de cat, filter and fmic would cost that much to go BPU and that is if u already had the TT engine fitted and running. All of the work was done in my garage at home without power tools or a ramp, only the mapping was done by a specialist. Anyone can go out, buy a TT, take it to a garage and hand over lots of money. Where is the fun or sense of achievement in that? I did this because I'd rather not conform, prefer to think outside of the box and don't follow the herd. Which ever route people decide to go down is up to them, there is no right or wrong, the main thing is that its a decision based on fact rather than speculation and above all... Enjoy it! Full spec and pics in my garage.

What's happening.with the grey one? Cash waiting!

PM'd. I'm interested in the top one.

The standard head gasket is fine for low boost systems and you will only need to change the pistons if your chasing serious power. You can get away with a piggy back management like the Greddy E-manage blue if your staying below the 440BHP mark, but I would invest in bigger injectors as they will be close to max duty cycle. I picked up a set of MKIII Supra Turbo injectors for around £60 and they are a direct replacement.