Andy Blyth

I'm not sure. I would recommend testing each connector with a multimeter, just to be sure.

The power wire to each injector is black with an orange stripe. The wire to the ECU on each injector will be red, often with a coloured stripe depending on the position.

That's your idle control valve. You need to leave the connector plugged in to allow the ECU to control the idle speed correctly. Also, the valve needs a source of filtered air. You can buy small air filters that have the correct pipe diameter to connect to the valve when you remove the stock turbos.

If you look at the crank pulley there is both a yellow and a white timing mark around its circumference. I believe it's the white one you need to use when setting TDC. You can double check by using the second set of timing marks that are on the timing belt sprocket on the crank. From memory there is only on timing mark on the sprocket so it's less ambiguous.

Here's a little trick of the trade: Don't clip a timing light around the green loop of wire in the igniter connector; it's just the designated decoy. You can use a normal timing light just fine by clipping it around both of the wires going to the coilpack of cylinder one. The arrow on the pickup points towards the sparkplug, just like on a HT lead. It does mean taking the spark plug cover off, which is a pain when you just want to check the timing.

The pressure is held at one end by the non-return valve in the supply line and at the other by the FPR in the return line. The FPR is always trying to hold the fuel rail pressure at the setpoint pressure. If there is no flow from the pump (i.e. it is turned off) then the FPR will be fully closed, which has the effect of holding the pressure in the fuel rail. Note that with some aftermarket FPRs (Aeromotive is one example), even when the FPR is "fully closed" there will be some internal leakage within the valve. This means that the fuel rail pressure will drop to zero within minutes.

(1) Is the thermostat for the small electric fan mounted on the stock radiator. (2) Is the outside air temperature sensor for the air conditioning. (3) I'm not sure. (4) Connector for the aforementioned electric fan.

50p on this option! Especially if the hose in the tank is not qualified to SAE J30R10.

The battery terminal sparking is completely normal. It's just all of the devices in the car charging up to 12V simultaneously. The current should drop to next to nothing within a second or two. If you have a multimeter it's pretty easy to isolate a drain on the battery. You can do it one of two ways. The (slightly) harder way is to set the multimeter to read current and then place it in line with one of the battery terminals. The easier way is to set the multimeter to read voltage and then connect it across your battery. Whichever way you choose, record what the current or voltage reading is when the engine is turned off and the car is locked. (You may need to tape down the bonnet switch on your alarm if it has one, to fool it into thinking the bonnet is down) Then, one by one, remove and replace each of the fuses in the fuse box. For each fuse, record by how much the current drops or the voltage increases. When you have gone through all of the fuses, you should see one that has a much bigger difference than the rest. This is the circuit to concentrate on. There are plenty of wiring diagrams online to help.

If a cylinder misfires, there will be an excess of oxygen in the exhaust (as it has not been consumed by combustion with fuel). If there are enough misfires together, a wideband lambda (oxygen) sensor will tend to read towards the lean end of the scale. A lean reading could very well be the result of iffy spark plugs.

It's 2 bar absolute pressure (measurement compared with an absolute vacuum) which is the same as 1 bar gauge pressure (measurement compared with atmospheric pressure at sea level). You can read that fault detection logic as: over 1 bar (gauge) for more than 2 seconds.

It's the sound of the fuel being pushed through the tiny orifice in the fuel pressure regulator. Perfectly normal as long as it stops a couple of seconds after you turn the ignition on. Otherwise this means your fuel pump is running all the time with the engine off, which could be dangerous in an accident.

Ask at Toyota by part number: Front insulator: 48157‑24010 Rear insulator: 48257‑24010

The mod in the link doesn't perform any conversion. If the odometer increases by one for every km now, it will still do the same after the mod. The only change that this makes is to turn off the little "km" light at the right of the display and turn on the "MILES" light.

Here's a how-to with an easy way and a hard way: http://homepage.ntlworld.com/peter.betts/supra/TechTips/odometer.htm I did the hard way; It's pretty fiddly to do but not impossible if you're comfortable with soldering.

It sounds like your valve had failed:

The wastegate VSV doesn't need to be bolted to ground to work; the coil in the valve should be completely isolated from the casing.

That's one way of dealing with it You could always replace it with a used one. They are listed in the "for sale" area of this site quite often; normally for little more than postage.

Just by looking at your photo, I'd say no. You're going to need to remove the water pump to undo the cap on the relief valve which means removing the cam belt and hence the crank pulley.

The stock BOV should be held closed by its internal spring if the engine is not running. If the engine is running in a vacuum condition (e.g. throttle fully or partially closed), the valve will be opened as the spring pressure will be overcome by the differential pressure across the piston caused by the reference to the intake vacuum. If the engine is not in a vacuum condition (e.g. throttle fully open, under boost) the spring pressure will be assisted by the intake pressure to hold the valve closed.

I can't remember exactly what fastener is used for the engine end. I've tried to have a look on mine but I can't find it using the light from the screen of my phone! The EPC however, suggests it's a bolt:

There's just one wire to the side of the engine block from the negative battery terminal. The "engine ground" wires connect the rest of the chassis to the battery through the engine.

IF you've got the right tools (harmonic damper removal tool, big breaker bar, tool to lock the crank, BIG torque wrench, shredded wheat for breakfast) it'a about a "2." Using anything other than the right tools I could see it quickly becoming a "10." Taking the radiator out makes the job much easier.

Check your harmonic damper crank pulley with the tippex test. When mine went, the first thing I noticed was the belt sitting about 2mm over the edge of the idler pulley. I was caused by the outer ring of the crank pulley attempting to escape! Edit: I've just seen one of your other postings saying you've got a squeak in that area also. That was the second symptom that I had when my pulley failed.

Don't worry! The bottom hose is the outlet of the radiator and if the radiator is working efficiently, the water should be close to ambient temperature - certainly when the engine is not operating at rated load for extended periods of time. I once put a temperature sensor in my lower rad hose to understand the behaviour of the water temperature at that point; it was possibly the most boring of measurements I've ever made! The reading never moved a bit.