Andy Blyth

The tables in the original posts didn't seem to make it through the forum transition, so the posts have been edited to include the tables as images.

I'd check to see if the slave cylinder rod was changed for the OS Giken one. From memory it's a little bit longer than the stock one.

That top bracket is totally bent! It should point straight upward - the bracket is an "L" shape normally. You mount it using an M8 (or maybe M10 - it's the biggest bolt in the pack) bolt inserted from the front of the car into the lower hole in your picture. Then put the thick spacer on the bolt, then the intercooler bracket, then a nut. I think there was two washers also included, one for under the bolt head and one for under the nut. It's a bit tricky to support the intercooler while installing the bolt; it goes a lot easier if you start with the lower two brackets which bolt to the subframe.

I don't think there's any requirement for the belt to be in the same place after a full revolution of the camshaft. The timing marks on each cam pulley should line up with the corresponding marks on the metal cover behind the pulleys, and the crank should line up too after a full rotation. I don't remember if there's a good mark on the main crank pulley, but there is one on the crank timing pulley. Or another way, if you divided the number of teeth on the belt by the number of teeth on a cam pulley, you wouldn't get a whole number.

Gauge water temp sensor: 83420-16050 Not sure which banjo bolt you're looking for, for the power steering. It could be: 90401-16014 for the banjo bolt that screws into the pump 90401-16013 for the bolt that screws into the rack for the supply pipe 90401-17002 for the bolt that screws into the rack for the return pipe

M10 x 1.

It looks like it's the air conditioning evaporator drain hose. It's normal to be like that - it's there to drain the condensation away.

Your inbox is full so I'll reply to your PM here... I've just been out to measure and I'm afraid the pipe I have is also around 21" long. If your installation is similar to ones I've seen before, with a "U" shaped pipe going between this pipe and the intercooler, you should be able to rotate the U shaped pipe around the intercooler outlet to make the two pipes fit together. On mine, the air conditioning pipes needed to be bent out of the way.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]215204[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]215205[/ATTACH]

I've got a spare one from a Whifbitz intercooler kit. From memory the O/D is 80mm, so just a little over 3". It can be yours for £65 delivered.

Just a little heads-up; these don't fit properly on the Right-Hand Drive version of the power steering system. There's a difference between the RHD and LHD high-pressure hoses that makes any inlet hose fitting attached to these adapters foul the power steering load sensing valve on the RHD model. I had to modify mine by cutting off the bracket with the fixing hole and welding a replacement in the 12 o'clock position (if the AN-10 inlet was in the 6 o'clock position).

Could be a "JOINT, WINDSHIELD WASHER ELBOW, NO.2," or a "JOINT, WINDSHIELD WASHER ELBOW, NO.3."

Take a couple of the spark plugs out and have a look at them. They may be flooded with fuel if the ECU hasn't been mapped for the new injectors. They could also be shorted out with soot if the engine is running too rich. You can get a flooded engine cleared by cranking the engine over for a good few seconds with all of the spark plugs removed and (really important) both EFI fuses removed. If you've got soot on the spark plugs, a once over with a wire brush will be enough to clean them.

It's all relative. Even 100C+ water from the outlet of the engine will still seem cold to the turbos that have 800-1000C exhaust gas on their other side.