spiderpigcity

The AEM AFR gauge unplugged should be calibrated using the gain to read @2.35 volts on the AEM software. I have set this to 2.35 v. The software and the gauge read bang on at 14.7 afr. however lower afr and higher afr readings are slightly out of sync with the software. I have read lots of stuff about this. Some people have put that you have to run the +v supply to the gauge from the ems supply and the same for the ground supply. anyone know anything about this

toyota bolt specs supra.pdf found it HERE IT IS PLEASE MAKE STICKY IN TECH

Boost logic turbo heat shield for LHD supra mkiv. Stainless steel. Never fitted as I believe it doesn't fit RHD £30 posted England. For overseas please email me for shipping quote.

1. is there a guide on here showing what toyota bolt markings are as they seem to be different to the stantard markings. 2. is there anyway that you can spec the bolt on every part of the car. i have the workshop manual but it doesn't show you what type of bolts to use with the markings etc. I am replacing the seats and wanted to know what type of bolts to use, as i have mixed them up with other stuff? is it the gold ones with 2 marks on the head or 4 marks on the head?

I have taken my headlining out today. It was taken out very carefully and still has the metal bracket expoxied to the centre. You will need the velcro off your old one to expoy on as these always come off when removing. There are no rips or tears and the cardboard is in excellent condition. There are 2 small 1mm holes on each side next to the interior lights where gauges where mounted. £50 collection only near J14 M1 [ATTACH]133083[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]133084[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]133085[/ATTACH]

does anyone know where you are supposed to fit the boostlogic heat shield. i ordered it 3 years ago and cant remember how it fits? anyone got any pics of theirs fitted

i have removed the cruise control actuator box of tricks along with the cable. £40

low mileage down stream 02 sensor TT. the bottom sensor that goes through the drivers floor near trans tunnel. £10 plus postage

Hi, I am just finishing the vacuum lines on my t67. It has been a while since i worked on it and just need a refresh. I am more concerned about the mini air filters that sit inline. I also have a one way valve that came of something and I cant remember what off. At the moment i just have an air filter before the BOV and before the AEM MAP sensor. Can anyone tell me if i need a mini are filter in line with any of the following SEE PICTURE

no, same pics different clutch, i had 2

Auto shifter assembly with switches. Does not come with the shift surround or gear indicators. This is the full assembly that fastens to the linkage from the gearbox. Pictures soon. £35

parts still available

has anyone got a wiring diagram of the physical routes for the wires in the charging system. does the charging wire from the alternator go somewhere else before the positive battery terminal? I have 2 cables from my battery terminal, one goes to the fuse box to supply power and the other to the starter motor i presume the charging wire from the alternator is connected to one of these somewhere as it doest go straight to the battery. can anyone point this out for me. thanks

[ATTACH]132574[/ATTACH]I have some genuine Audioleads 4 AWG cable left over from my install. I have both black and red. It is good stuff. Will handle a good continuous 175 amps. 300 amps peak. Letting it go for £3.00 per metre. Plus the postage which will be from £4.40 to £8.50 depending on amount.

I have spoke to nearly every clutch company in the UK and lots of clutch specialists. Its a nightmare trying to find the right information. Crank walk if you go single, with a heavy pedal and on/of actuation. some clutches only run with specific flywheels, some need adaption kits for the throw on the slave cylinder. Twins make a noise and rattle on tickover, tripples even worse. 4 paddle and 6 paddle batter the lay shaft and internal bearings. I have heard it all. anyway in the end i spoke to MVP in USA and threw all these questions at him. He gave me a simple answer, this is from the guys who know everything about the supra and whos boss is currently driving a 1200rwhp road supra with no problems, and have used RPS clutches for years. they have bought the rights to RPS as they were going to stop manufacturing. anyway the simple answer was RPS stage 2 street disc for the cheap option with good drive-ability. or RPS twin plate for next option up. Seen as I am not going to drive the car much he said Stage 2 single would be fine. So MVP it was RPS it was. google ACT and they get slated google RPs and they get slated google SPEC and they get slated so i ignored google and went with the guys who have been doing it long enough to know.

has anyone had a competition stage 5 , 4 paddle ceramic clutch with a stock flywheel? Are they drivable or are they like an on/off switch, could you hill start with one?

1 straight and 1 right angle would be perfect thanks. they are npt 1/8 cheers

apr flywheel bolts for standard oem tt flywheel

i think i have sorted it, 1/8 NPT threads

can anyone tell me what pin to connect a switch to for hi/low boost control on aem ems. does it need to be a grounded switch or 12v? i have searched but cannot find the specific details thanks

its the aem boost solenoid valve i think i have got the answer to the piping. can someone confirm? port 1 - goes to turbo and wastegate side port 2 - goes to wastgate top port 3 - is filtered to atmosphere i just need to know about the tapered threads now

i am after the fittings for the solenoid as pictured here. i suspect they might be tapered threads. does anyone know if they are tapered? does this mean i cant used standard barbs? do i need tapered thread barbs? cheers

i have the aem solenoid boost valve and just need the fittings to screw into it. i need a mini airfilter and 2 x screwin barbs , i think they are tapered threads. picture here with parts i need ???

sorry i thought it was a maf sensor and its actually an AIT sensor