spiderpigcity

Not really a strange question just look like they claim similar specs on their jackets to ballistic stuff, and I would imagine thats where they get in from and remanufacture it into new covers. A lot of vests that are sold are ex military vests remanufactured into new covers as its cheaper to buy then surplus than manufacture the weave itself. Just thought I have a couple that I don't use anymore and they could be turn into a transmission jacket with a bit of stitching with nomex thread.

Daryl, I was reading a post from RPS the other day on the supraforum and I just thought it was safer than nothing if I have them knocking around.

Would I be able to use my old bullet proof kevlar/carbon weave vests as a transmission jacket on my supra? If it stops small arms and knives It must be good to stop clutch bits and bobs. What do you reckon? Looking at the trans jackets on the net they look very similar.

Reserved _ awaiting payment

nic is correct, emanage blue and fcd and cams and fmc will give you a good 400bhp on 99 ron Maybe uk injectors or if nic reckons you can get away with the 440cc jspecs thats even better but your duty cycle will be too high i think. I managed 420 out of mine but with lots of mods and ended up blowing the turbos. at that you are on the limit.

whos gonna fit em. Ive done it twice and never again. Not unless your best mate is MR Tickle. Add another £500 to take em off and another £500 to put em on minimum. Its a Po* job to do.

Does anyone know if you can use a NTK afr sensor with the AEM EUGO or does it have to be a bosch AEM jobby? I have a new NTK one nocking around from a lexus

Its atleast that and thats if block is good to go and not other accidents or bad installs on the way. People always talk sh*t saying you can do it for 5k bla bla. To do it properly will cost you atleast 12k. I agree. fmc £1000 turbo £2000 manifold £1500 exhaust £600 injectors £800 Pumps £200 auto box £2500 ECU £2000 minimum Injector rail and fuel setup £1000 rear lsd £1000 big brakes £2500 wastegate £400 solenoid £50 Big Rad £300 Cooler £100 Tyres £1000 FPR £180 CAms £500 Timing belt and cam vernier pulleys £400 DLI £400 Map sensor £80 afr setup £200 various gages £400 tuning £500+ Fuel to tune £100 probably more but too tired now.

Having said that if you said money no option then go sequential box for around 30K

Be careful if on AEM with auto as they have been known to downshift to 1st when at full throttle. ask ryan g. software bug.

Manwel to be a proper car, and Carlos when you get it nicked.

I bought this and then ended up going getrag 6 speed. Was fitted to the car and never used, then we took it off when we went getrag, mint condition. Made in Canada. £50 plus postage

I have a new auto cooler form boostlogic for sale. I put it on and took it off. never been used on the car running.

go manwel getrag or it will have to be boostlogic box and setup. I have been through all this and in the end manwel is the way. Who is gonna map your auto? thats the hard part. ryan wont do it on AEM, so you would have to go fcon pro or motec which is even more money.

:yeahthat:

just add a 100 shot NOS

http://project-muscle.com/sp/Toyota%20Supra%20Repair%20Manual%20%20Mk%20IV/Body%20-%20Electrical%20Systems.pdf http://project-muscle.com/sp/Toyota%20Supra%20Repair%20Manual%20%20Mk%20IV/Wiring%20Diagrams.pdf http://project-muscle.com/sp/Toyota%20Supra%20Repair%20Manual%20%20Mk%20IV/Wire%20Harness.pdf

I have put this together as there is nothing I could find that really explains how these clutches go together. MVP supplied the kit and said they run RPS in all their installs. There is a lot of stuff on the net giving RPS a bad name and lots of problems with the clutches not working properly. MVP say they are good clutches and its down to bad installs. OK after a nightmare 2 days on the ramps we finally got the thing to work. List of common problems that occur if installed incorrectly. 1. Vibration through pedal on releasing the pedal 2. Cannot get into gear once engine is on idle. 3. Cannot get 1st gear or reverse but can get 2nd through 6th 4. Cannot get enough travel on the clutch fork to release the clutch These are the most common problems on the forums and we have got to the bottom of it all after 3 installs and removals of the gearbox. Steps Remove the gearbox Remove the clutch fork - pull it out, not bolted in. Slide off the clutch disc Slide off the clutch pack Remove the small snap ring from the carrier in the centre of the clutch pack, throw snap ring away. Remove the carrier with the cone spring washer and plate washer on. Remove the snap ring from the thrust/throw out bearing pull out the bearing from the clutch pack/pressure plate fingers and throw the snap ring away. Your new RPS clutch kit will come with an organic full street disc and a blue RPS pressure plate. IT WILL WORK FINE ON THE OEM TOYOTA FLYWHEEL You will need Toyota Thrust/throwout bearing £50 Toyota small snap ring £2 Toyota large snap ring £2 Toyota pilot bearing - about £6 3 location dowels for the pressure plate It is crucial that you replace these parts or you will be having problems down the line and paying to take the box out again to replace them. This is the bit you need to read carefully. If you install the washers in the incorrect order when assembling the clutch pack you will cause the problems listed above. The thickness of the washers on the wrong side of the bearing will result in vibration, not been able to select gears properly and also not been able to release the clutch pack from the clutch disk and flywheel. Even by adding 1mm thickness to the clutch carrier by inserting the washer on the wrong side will prevent you from disengaging the clutch when the pedal is fully depressed as the fork will hit the clutch pressure plate. Changing the slave cylinder and adjusting the clutch pedal WILL NOT help you with this as the actual throw of the fork is restricted. I have put together a drawing of exactly which order the washers and all the clutch pack go together. Dont forget to put the location dowels into the flywheel first 3 of them. Below When you have put it together slide it onto the gearbox input shaft and put the box in the car with the CLUTCH IN THE GEARBOX. You do NOT need to jack the engine up at the front! VERY VERY IMPORTANT THE CLUTCH DISC GOES IN WITH THE LARGEST PART STICKING OUT (THE CONE) FACING THE FLYWHEEL THE SAME AS STOCK. IT DOES NOT FACE THE REAR OF THE CAR AS DESCRIBED IN THE SUPRA FORUMS AND OTHER INTERNET SITES. MAKE SURE YOU FIT THE CONE WASHER THE CORRECT WAY AS DISPLAYED IN THE DRAWING. Now you need to line the dowels up with the pressure plate and put the small 12mm long bolts in one at a time as you turn the flywheel round using a spanner on the crank pulley at the front. Tighten them up slowly and evenly. This will take you a good 30 minutes to do properly unless you have someone turning the crank for you as you do it. the bolts should be toyota bolts with the number 7 on the heads. DO NOT use any other bolts as they will snap off in the flywheel if they are the incorrect alloy. Tighten them all up opposite sides sequence to 19nm. Next you need to install the slave cylinder onto the gearbox. Make sure you the piston rod is inserted into the cup on the fork. The piston that gives the correct throw is red in colour. If you take the rubber boot off you will see it is coloured RED/PINK. Bleed the clutch properly by traditional pumping the pedal method. You now need to set the clutch pedal adjustment so that you can freely select all the gears. If your clutch is not releasing properly you wont be able to select any gears when your engine is running. Start the engine and try for 1st gear. If you cannot get first with the clutch fully depressed turn off the engine. Remove the shin panel under the steering wheel and remove the plastic vent tunnel for the heating system that runs across the top. It just pulls out. Remove the drivers seat unless you are well skinny and can get to the pedals without getting stuck. You need to look for the piston arm that comes through the bulkhead and fastens to the clutch pedal. Crack the 14mm nut on the rod and spin it clockwise so it travels down the thread towards the front of the car. Now you need to get a long pair of long nosed pliers and start to turn the clutch piston rod clockwise moving it in towards the front of the car. Try turning it 1 1/2 turns first. that should be enough to get your gears to go in. try the gears again with the engine running. If you can now get first but still cannot get reverse you will need to turn the rod in a little bit more, 1/2 to a full turn. It is crucial that you dont over wind the rod in as you will cause damaged to your clutch and burn it out and place stress on the clutch fork. The turns/clutch release ratio are very sensitive so be very careful when adjusting it. YOU DO NOT NEED A LOT OF ADJUSTMENT TO MAKE A massive difference to the throw of the fork. Ok. You should have 5mm-10mm free play at the top of the clutch, just a bit less than TOYOTA STOCK measurements. Lock the nut up against the flange and do not over tighten. You can put your seat back in and take it for a drive. You should get biting point just before half way up on the pedal. If it is too low you will risk grinding your box to bits on change, if its too high you will damage your clutch pack and not have enough pressure on the plate. I hope this has helped you out. The pedal is slightly harder than stock but nothing harsh at all. The clutch is very slippable and is very smooth when changing gears. If it wasnt for the Getrag sounding like a bag of spanners you wouldnt know it wasnt stock. Thanks to Chris Wilson for the help and tech info when we had problems with the install. Cheers

This is the same system that toyota use on the supra manual transmission. I thought it would help you newbies understand how your clutch system works. It took me a while to figure it out from the drawings until I saw this video. http://www.metacafe.com/watch/1518623/how_a_pull_type_clutch_works/

Rear open Diff in Excellent condition low mileage ratio 3.7 £150

Auto TT Prop Shaft for sale. Still matching up and in very good condition, low mileage. £80

which way does the rps clutch disc go in the v160 gearbox? long part facing the rear of the car or long part facing the front of the car?

can anyone tell me which sensor i need with the part number for my AEM AFR gauge UEGO? I need to replace my AEM afr sensor.

will this fit a supra http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250824156739&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_500wt_949

Thats strange but thanks, i have check my na and tt and they both havnt got one, wonder why toyota did that