mazman

i really cant see it being different unless they changed the pulley size ect.. mines jap spec and timing belt is: toyota original and part number" 13568" with 143 teeth so if youve got the same amount of teeth or part no,you should be ok at least with the belt.

yeah,it wouldnt be on the ecu,as when i replaced my ECU(with aftermarket),the ODO stilled worked..so its stored somewhere else.

hey guys,you'se using our "mates" now?

every1 says the t88 is too big,why is that? in the US,every1 uses them and get great results! i think as long as you keep the A/R in the lower range it should still be good. down here in the aussie land,every1 uses the new garret ball bearing turbos,like gt35,gt42,gt45... while talking about the bosch pumps,are you talking about the bosch motorsport 044 pumps?

thanks guys,that very helpfull. i wont be running more the 1kg/1bar as i have the ceramic wheels. until i go single. i just wanna learn more about the gains../ratio ok,so ratio i understand,its to do with the amount of boost bleed. what would the difference be between the gain of 20 and 12? would the gain of 20 get the boost there quicker but with a more chance of a spike? cheers guys Danny

Thanks Martin, as long as i get a basic idea where to start from. if need be,ill just change your settings by a little bit,but should be similar. cheers Danny

Hi, ive got a dual sbc and would like to know what settings you'se find the best. im trying to run the most 14psi for now. i use 38 ratio gain 10 and i forget about the name of the limit...but its also 10(i think its %)so if overboosting it reduces it by 10% its a Jspec engine and im running the turbos in TTC thanks for any help you'se can give

no problemo Terry,done. thanks Danny

Terry, can you empty your PM's,trying to ask ya a few questions.(your PM is full) cheers Danny

Are you saying "Autronic" is making a plug'n'play ecu for the mkiv? just that ive never heard about it. will you have to modify the crank/cam pickups? how much? cheers

a).Not really serious,just that it will smoke more and more as it gets more miles on it,plus check your oil level often. b). not sure on the price as ive never did it myself on the supra,but shouldnt be much. its the labour that is the killer. what they gotta do is,take the rocker cover off,compress the valve springs and take the valve collets off together with the springs. remove the old seals(that you'll see that is sealing the valve stem) and install the new one,then reinstall the springs ect... NOTE:you have to pressurise the combustion chamber if you are going to do this while head on the block as the valve can fall in the chamber.

If you let it idle for a long time(10min)without touching anything...does it smoke? if the answer is is yes= its your turbos if it DOESNT smoke on idle,but smokes once you hit the pedal(after a few min) either wide open throttle or taking off,or just a quick splirt...but goes away after that initial puff of smoke= then its your valve stem seals.

EYEFI.. its a Haltech,model is called E6K its a full stand alone ecu. all that was done is: take standard ecu out put Haltech in,with a wiring adaptor so i didnt have to chop up the original loom. The ABS works fine,so to me that mean its independant and does not rely on the ECU. My supra is a JAP spec,tho so not sure if yours are the same.

I dont understand why your ABS doesnt work? it should have nothing to do with the ecu. ive put a standalone ecu(E6K) and still have the ABS working fine,so whats the deal there?

i am not 100% sure,but i think its the pin 71 or pin 48 on the ecu. if you can use a multimeter and probe both of them you will find out witch one it is. there will be a reference Volts(3v-5v) and a signal Voltage(going from 0v to 1v),going up and down constantly...this is the one you want. or you could splice into the original O2 sensor wire? (you will also need a multimeter to find out the one that you need-0v to 1v range wire) NOTE: you need the car running to get the voltage.