Frank Bullitt

I'm sure people want to keep hold of their Supra's for the same reason you want to buy one. The days are gone where these cars offered massive BHP for very little financial outlay. The chavs that could afford and used to buy most of the poor examples, ran them into the ground, wrote them off or they were broken for spares. Supply started to dry up, local prices started increasing, Japan got wise and started upping their prices. The pound fell in value and importing became even more expensive. Decent examples (I mean ones that are properly maintained with parts being replaced because of age rather than failure) are very hard to come by. These cars now command a premium and members now know that if they sell it's going to be harder to find another without spending a lot more money. I guess most owners are now true enthusiasts and collectors. That is my take on it anyway

About £300 per side if my memory serves me correctly.

Assuming it's the whole pumpkin without shafts or prop and all teeth are in good condition £300-350 would be about right. I paid the top end of that for mine but bought it from a known source.

Didn't say the advert wasn't good but you know the forum and the rules

You need to put the for sale advert together as per the forum rules. Template for you to copy and paste can be found here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?307494-Sales-Thread-Template-Please-copy-and-paste-this

Jakes were in a pretty bad state and they were repaired by a bodyshop, starts here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?327772-Jakes-RZ-Supra-Build-Project-Thread-Officially-Sponsored&p=4106905&viewfull=1#post4106905

I thought your car was already BPU as you said it was boosting to 1.5 bar...

Have a search dude, this has been covered so many times now and there is a current thread regarding the dust shields below this thread. Plenty of info on here but long story short is yes you can if you are talking about a caliper swap and re turbos, no you can't unless you fit the US spec manifold. To be honest I wouldn't bother, JDM can take 1.2 bar, they spool quicker than their steel counter parts and I believe the JDM turbo housings are bigger than the US versions which give you more scope for going hybrid if the ceramic blades fail. I wouldn't change my JDMs for US or UK spec turbos.

If you are running the autobox you want the 3.769 ratio, you can get this in a small A diff (easier to find) or the larger B diff (like rocking horse poop and a lot more expensive). If you plan on going over 600+ and abusing the car you want the larger diff. You will also need a propshaft and both drive shafts depending on which option you choose. DavidP offers a Hybrid box, contact him for more info if this interests you. Loads of reading here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?groupid=57 You can get upgraded internals in the US from ATF Speed and Raybestos Blue Plates from Import Performance Transmissions. Fitting both of these will allow the box to handle more power and any good reputable auto box builder in the UK can do this job for you. You can get ready built boxes from the likes of Titan Motorsport, ATF Speed and maybe Boostlogic. Personally I'd go with ATF speed (see videos in the first link below). I am not sure if the latter of these is still making them and one of them (Titan or Boostlogic, I can't remember which now) gives a hefty shunt when you select reverse gear. E2A More info and some videos here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?341705-Facelift-auto-box&p=4214612&viewfull=1#post4214612 Built autobox currently for sale here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?337128-Boostlogic-auto-box-rebuilt-to-withstand-750-lb-ft

I thought he had gone parallel for some reason, you aren't the only one waiting on his manifold

Check your pm's please

Nice looking car, seems a very clean late model.

I wasn't so concerned with cost VS gain, the way Stu Hagen seems to have gone looks interesting apart from the change of sequential to parallel.

Would you just go basic BPU or everything possible at the BPU level whilst keeping the sequential system?

PM sent

Have a read of this (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?67644-What-to-check-when-buying-a-Supra) and take a copy with you when you go to look at the car. As it's a UK spec you really need to get the car up in the air to throughly check the underside as you could be buying something with a whole heap of problems. The prices of replacement OEM parts are rocketing to eye watering levels. As Dunk said I'd also be wanting a compression test then a leakdown test done. Out of interest what cars have you owned before?

Are you looking to buy the car are or are you the seller of the car? You seem to be skimming over the important details that help work out what the car is worth so I am starting to think the latter of the two.

No idea without more information and photos.

JDM Supras were KM not miles so it must have been converted on import. Do you have all the paperwork confirming milage on import? Do you have paperwork (receipts) showing regular servicing with dates and miles/KM? What make is the stage 4 clutch? Who carried out the conversion from auto to manual? What maintenance has been carried out during ownership of the car? Replacing worn out & tired parts et cetera. How old are the tyres? Any chance of photos of the engine bay, rear seats, from the passenger side (to match the driver side internal), the boot space, all four wheels, front & rear of the car square on. Also shots showing the underside would be good.

Is that 20,000 KM or 20,000 miles or a mixture of both? What regular service history is there, oil changes, filters, plugs et cetera? What maintenance has been carried out during ownership of the car? Replacing worn out & tired parts et cetera. Also, i'm not sure if I am understanding the advert correctly but to me it reads that you are selling the car with faulty/broken electric folding mirrors, a dodgy alarm and a dodgy W58. For the car with these issues you would like 10K but you have a good R154 that you will sell for a further 2k? So 12K in total if the buyer wants a working gearbox? Just host the photos with Photobucket and put the links in your OP.

It's already started.

Silent Coat, can't go wrong. Much better than the Dynomat stuff, easier to work with and you are (unless things have changed) buying British 4mm for floors and 2mm for doors, you can add mats and sound absorber sheets on top. It all depends on how far you want to go. Try to do it on a warm day as it will make the job so much easier, use a hot air gun to warm the sheets before putting them on. Get a roller to help you apply it and above all else a decent pair of gloves otherwise you will cut your hands to shreds.

Welcome and as you have already commented on his thread - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?340940-1993-Toyota-Supra-Aerotop-NA-T

I can't help but wonder if it's a handbrake shoe catching. How is the diff?