Frank Bullitt

Lincolnshire like you, I can’t speak for Craig so you would be best off touching base with him and chatting things through.

Did you PM Swampy to ask him to take a look at your car?

I didn’t want to say that but i’m glad I’m not the only one thinking it.

Did you sort the boost out? IIRC your car was running 1.5 bar on stock twins.

Have a word with Swampy - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?6850-Swampy442

My fault for skim reading the thread sorry I though the engine was coming out.

WOT = Wide Open Throttle. If the front has to come off anyway, it’s only a quick job to change the pump over.

Part number for the RH is 62710-14280, LH is 62720-14280. Try Paul at TCB - http://www.tcbparts.co.uk/contact_us.htm or Steve Manley [email protected] (https://www.inchcape.co.uk/toyota/) and ask both for a club discount. E2A You might find pre-facelift windows (if that is what you have) are discontinued, mine is Facelift. The difference will be in the colour of the glass I believe. You could always check with Keron the authorised forum trader/breaker to see if he has anything in and to compare prices. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?143751-Extreme-Performance

No problem What year is your car? Is it a hardtop or aerotop?

You could get a stand-alone fitted and have it mapped in sequential or go single. SARD drop in injectors are no longer available but weren’t always reliable. GTX3576 would be on the money for your power requirements. Stock ECU can’t be reflashed. Fit a Walbro 450LPH fuel pump, 650cc ANSU injectors and compatible fuel rail.

Strange, I bought a pair a couple of months ago. What part numbers did you use? To advertise for parts you will need to do that in the classified section of the forum. To do this you need to be a paid up member of the club which was all in the T&C you agreed to when you signed up. This is why a mod has edited your OP. To pay your membership fee go to the top right of your screen, click settings, then on the left hand side panel click “paid subscriptions”. It’s £10 per year or £30 for lifetime membership, the information and knowledge you will gain being a paid member on this forum will save you that in next to no time.

You can still get them new from Toyota.

I’ve just sent and enquiry to Torque GT asking what it would cost to get one imported, I’ll post up when they reply. No idea where it’s all going to end, local clean well cared for examples are very hard to come by. Right car that ticks the buyers boxes and you might be surprised what someone is willing to pay. Looking at what is going on with the R32, R33 and R34 I see no reason the Supra shouldn’t follow suit. The MKV is a bastard so this is the last true Supra. E2A November last year. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?337957-Black-tt-auto-great-car&p=4245491&viewfull=1#post4245491

20-25K

Every buyer will have his or her unicorn that said I do feel the more desirable components will command a better premium. Whilst stock, it has the Grey interior carpet, cloth seats, smaller OEM wheels, the auto-box and its Silver. If I was looking to make money I would invest in a VVT-i engine, V161, large diff, less common colour, 17” OEM wheels and as close to end of production as possible. Untouched GZ’s will be another sought after item as there weren’t many to begin with and quite a few have been manually converted or singled. Not that this makes an unmodified example worth more, as I said above each buyer will be looking for something different. On top of those you have the limited pool of UK specs to add into the mix.

Prices above seem fair taking into consideration the cost in pulling the dent out, respraying and buying completely new seals if you want to have it in the best possible condition.

I disagree. Inertia dyno's work on the principle of the acceleration of a known mass over time. Their rollers are the known mass. Weighing in at over 1100 kgs +. The car gets strapped down to the machine and the dyno collects it's data. It is able to calculate horsepower by measuring the acceleration (in RPM) of the rollers. This is why gearing can affect the dyno results which leads to over reading. Now that the dyno has recorded the horsepower curve, it can take the integral of that curve and get the torque curve. Since the dyno’s power calculations are based on the acceleration of mass over time in regards to RPM gearing is very important. A vehicle with a lower gear ratio can accelerate the mass to a higher speed using less engine RPM so it will show a higher horsepower number than a car with a higher gear ratio. If a car is able to accelerate the dyno’s rollers from 200rpm (roller speed) to 300rpm (roller speed) in 1500rpm (engine speed) then the dyno is going to record more power than a car that did that in 2000rpm (engine speed).

Do you want to sell that loom separately?

Hub is different to rolling road.

No problem, on their calculator an auto it works out about 24% and a manual at 17% I think.

I found this a while ago whilst searching for the same, I don’t think the figure it gives is 100% as it’s a guestimator but it’s pretty close. https://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator4.php

Have you thought about passing it to a trader to finish off the last bits for you? Fresh pair of eyes and all that.

Is the rear boot lock from a pre-facelift model? If it is I would like it please.