Frank Bullitt

Tried and tested time and time again. Great combination.

Don't be so desperate to give that shyster your money, there will be better cars out there for 10K you just need to wait. Best advice I can give you regarding Restless Ku(nt)stoms and Nash Meister is to avoid him like you would a whore with Syphilis! No one on here (current members) would touch him with a barge pole, pedro7256 was caught out badly with a purchase which tainted ownership of the marque for him so he moved on. Don't let the same happen to you. A quick search reveals some of the threads where he and his company have been mentioned. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?335920-Looks-like-a-dog-sounds-like-a-dog-must-be&highlight=Nash http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?342621-OTT-Fast-amp-Furious-Hype&highlight=restless http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?346248-Restless-are-back&highlight=restless http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?343688-040-TT6-Worst-panel-gap-contender&highlight=restless http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?343567-Expensive-shagger-of-the-week-from-Restless&highlight=restless http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?342456-Supra-n-a-auto-Cat-C&highlight=restless http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?339369-N-A-Auto-White-1994&highlight=restless http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?338636-Fleabay-Manual-NA&highlight=restless+customs http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?339383-Wanted-TT-Auto&highlight=restless+customs

Okay, its an older ECU but will still be up to the job. Piggybacking the HKS to the car and letting the OEM ECU control everything with the gearbox is probably a wise decision, it tends to get expensive going standalone and mapping the whole lot. Injector wise, ASNU are a good injector and based on a Bosch unit so quite reliable. Fuel rail wise it depends on what you like the look of. Most are a generic design, all will do the same job so you just need to decide on a colour I haven't had any dealing with SSI but I have heard from people that have and Marty & Colin couldn't have been recommended highly enough. Have you decided on a mapper?

Would you consider going back to a small case? Might be food for thought if the other route isn't viable. It would certainly be a cheaper way to get the ratio you want. Yes, I believe they are still available if you want to pay for them. 3.5K is crazy money but if people are desperate for the part they will pay it. I'm not sure if this info is of any use to you but running the 315/35/R17 with your current ratio is giving you an effective ratio of 3.59. The same tyre size on the 3.266 gives you an effective ratio of 3.31. The 3.133 ratio with your current tyre size will be and effective ratio of 3.18. Going from your current 3.538 to a 3.266 (effectively a 3.31) will increase top end but at the expense of torque.

Mine was 'slightly' lowered when I bought her. When I measured he had been lowered 35mm all round. Better clarification would be needed on exactly what brand of tyre one might consider 'high quality'. As you know, the Supra suspension isn't modern so the larger the wheel the more detrimental it becomes. The more sidewall you have on the rear means the the car should be able to put down the power better (all things being equal) and the handling should be more predictable. Larger wheels result in a drop in fuel economy, slower acceleration, slightly less lateral grip and a less comfortable ride over the road surface. Heavily track focused and very expensive I would imagine.

Thats great but I'm sure you will know there is a huge difference between crank and RWHP. 600 at the crank is roughly 480 at the wheels, 600 at the wheels is approx 730 at the crank. It's torque that will kill the box along with heat. Regular fluid changes, adequate cooling and your mapper controlling how the torque comes on will extend the life of the box considerably although not permanently. You should speak with DavidP (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?25493-David-P) about his hybrid transmissions and join his transmission group (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?groupid=57) for a good read. Beware though, he doesn't suffer fools gladly and speaks his mind. Nothing wrong with that at all (in fact it's quite refreshing) but it's not for everyone Back to the injectors, you don't mention what ECU you are running but modern ECUs can control the larger (than required) injectors quite well. Personally, I would look at an 850cc over a 1050cc if you aren't chasing numbers.

Unfortunately so. Have you tried CW, I would be surprised if he didn't know a reputable company who could carry this out. Had you thought about the 3.133:1 or are you trying to keep everything as per the VIN plate? Out of interest what profile are your rear tyres?

I wouldn't mind, the world was a better place back then.

Probably drowning his tears in the pub after reading that.

Don't hold your breath waiting for a reply, he is about as much use as a Chocolate fireguard. I contacted Arnout about a few things (the UK dash panel for one) and he wasn't interested in supporting the RHD market. To take directs quotes from my email correspondence with him, "we complained about pricing too much" so he preferred to deal with the LHD market as "they spend more money on their cars" than us?! Maybe because the ring and pinion are universal and a lot more money can be made from such a product he will be interested. Personally I would waste my time or energy. As Scooter said 3D map and CNC the part, I wouldn't look outside of the UK unless I had to.

When you say 600 are you talking crank or rear wheel power? Will you be looking to go beyond that power in the future?

Why are you looking to increase the size? What is the current spec of the car?

Tim currently the best decat pipe on the market (has the flex pipe) and you might as well grab his midpipe too as the build quality isn't too shabby on this either - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?331224-Tempted-to-make-my-own-range-of-exhausts If you click on --> BPU it will take you to a page where everything is explained

Stiffer bars can give a very bad ride over single wheel bumps. Adding roll stiffness via bars will make single pothole bumps much harsher and stiffer bars will make handling more twitchy. For road usage you would be best sticking with the stock ARB or at the very most go for the softer TRD bars which are tubular so they aren't as heavy. For a pure track car you would need the stiffest along with different springs and shocks but the car would be dreadful to drive on normal roads. To improve handling you want to consider wheels sizes no bigger than 18" (ideally 17") with as close to stock offset as possible. Good road tyres with a sensible profile, especially on the rear. Correct tyre pressures, suspension with progressively wound springs (lowering no more than 15mm - 18 mm at the front and 10 mm at the rear followed by geometry then look at adding anti-rollbars and a decent LSD like the OS Giken.

112468 miles is less than 5000 miles a year. For a '93 car that isn't high mileage.

To save yourself a lot of hassle and questions copy and paste this advert guide - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?307494-Sales-Thread-Template-Please-copy-and-paste-this Past adverts in PDF for here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?349720-Supra-adverts-to-help-insurance-values 2018 price info here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?346873-2018-agreed-value-prices-following-the-market-upwards 2019 here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?351357-2019-agreed-value-prices-following-the-market-upwards

That seems very cheap, are you up to date with current pricing?

Many "discontinued" parts are still available to buy new if you spend time searching, although some owners appear too lazy to do this. Some have more money than sense and many are happy to take everything they are told at face value so will pay an inflated price. None of this will help pricing structure when combining it with Toyotas lack of interest in supporting the marque. You are going back some time there. The Chavs that bought the cars wrote them off or blew them up, then lost interest and moved on. Members who have been on here for 10+ years will remember the cheap and often free secondhand OEM parts. Keron ALWAYS having stock of everything you could possibly need and members giving parts away for free just because it would help someone out of a sticky situation. Unfortunately times have changes, arguably not for the best but we don't have an option other than to buy new from Toyota if it is still available. It doesn't help that there are members who seem to have an untapped source to discontinued or rare OEM parts who only want sell for a profit. Combined with the FU attitude of "if you don't like the price, someone else with more money than you will pay it, if they are desperate enough" and giving nothing back to the community really does rub salt into the wounds. Very true unfortunately. Exactly this. The smaller 200mm Lexus diff is a prime example. It happens on here too.

Isn't that just a special option for women drivers?

All that video does is reinforce the original thought that Toyota had very little input with the car and that the new Supra is just a rebadged Z4. Toyota stripped down four engines and sent thousands of parts back to Japan for full failure analysis to be done. Then sent them back to Germany to be revised if they weren't up to Toyota standards. Nice to know the engine should be reliable then. Suspension design was largely taken from existing BMW cars. Both use the BMW electronic diff. The front suspension is Macpherson strut. They "co-developed" an engine with Valvetronic & Vanos. I though those had been parts of BMW engines since 2016. So for those of you who thought the new Supra used a BMW gearbox, you were wrong. The ZF8HP is used by Alfa Romeo, Alpina, Aston Martin, Audi, Bentley, BMW, Chrysler, Dodge, Haval, Iveco, Jaguar, Jeep, Lamborghini, Lancia, Land Rover, Maserati, Ram Trucks, Rolls-Royce & Volkswagen. BMW have to be laughing all the way to the bank, Toyota have helped them produce the most reliable BMW yet.

They are Murray constant tension clamps.

Isn't the OEM Supra mirror difficult to remover without cracking the screen?

Is the car auto or manual? VVT-i or non VVT-i? Is the head coming off or is it just a cam swap? Stem seals would be a must if they are still OEM. Other item to consider whilst you are there could be; - Coil Pack Clips - Coil Packs - Water Pump Gasket - Water Pump - Thermostat - Tensioner - Idler - Idler Bolt - Idler Washer - Timing Belt Tensioner Hydraulic Capsule - Crank Sprocket. If non VVT-i get a new one and weld it up to stop it separating. - Oil Pump - Oil Pump Seal - Lexus SC430 Oil Filter (its larger that the Supra one) - Crank Pulley - Crank Washer - Crank Bolt

Surprised no one has mentioned using a TT intercooler and OEM ducting. Much better than a FMIC but it doesn't look as good if form over function is your thing.

Herb, I assume you know the OEM keys are made from brass? Ti is an extremely strong metal, stronger if it is aero grade and much stronger than steel. Brass is a "soft" metal and self lubricating in it's nature so Brass keys won't damage the steel tumblers in the ignition barrel or door/boot locks. The OEM key is designed to wear down over time rather than wear down the tumblers. Personally I think using Ti for a key in our locks which are now anywhere from 17 - 26 years old is asking for trouble.