Frank Bullitt

At just over a 370 mile one way trip from me to Chris I know what you mean about distance but pick up the phone a chat with him. I won’t ask re the DAC but this Milbrook course look pretty good - https://www.total-car-control.co.uk

Other than making sure all suspension components are 100% along with the alignment (as rider mentioned above) I don’t think there is much you can do as it’s the nature of the beast. Torque steer is what is it but should not happen unless under full/heavy drivetrain load, unequal length shafts or not. You can test the alignment by driving at a reasonable speed then put the car into neutral. The gearbox and drivetrain will not be seeing any power so the Supra should keep a straight line without any hands on the steering wheel. Make sure that there is no crown down the centerline of the road, it needs to be perfectly flat. If the Supra pulls to one side while in neutral then the alignment is off. If the Supra pulls when applying the brakes, then the brakes are off. All you can do is make sure you have everything as it should be which includes decent offsets (as close to OEM as possible) on the wheels, don’t ever consider 19”s unless you like driving in a ditch, use a decent branded and correctly sized street tyre (not the rubber band stretch type), the correct PSI, good suspension, driver knowledge and experience. Also make sure to keep both hands on the steering wheel. That OS Giken (1.5 way) I mentioned is a good addition too. Have you ever done a good advanced driver course before? They cost the Earth but are worth their weight in gold. I wouldn’t consider unbalancing one to make it behave differently to how Toyota intended as I’d imagine that could cause unnecessary wear and stress to other supporting components. Money no object, you could fit a 4x4 system but it will zap power (due to all four wheels being driven) and the conversion will empty your wallet quicker than a 7 second Supra. Have you managed to touch base with the Geometry Oracle in deepest darkest Shropshire yet? Chris will be able to give you a much better, more in-depth knowledge based answer from many years hands on experience.

Once serviced those amps would easily compete with the crap sold today. Sleeper amps were made back then for use in competitions. A bit like the Supra’s gentleman’s agreement on HP but theirs was watts. They were designed and made in the USA when that meant something. Hand assembled too. Nice period correct install if someone wanted it. I don’t suppose you have the birth sheet for the either amp? You need to open those up and take a look inside to see what’s what. I’m guessing original caps which are most likely leaking but you need to check for any board damage. The caps leak electrolyte fluid which can eat through the board or worse cause a fire when power is run through them.

The only part of that set up that has potential are the two 750X amps if they have been serviced. It’s going to have to go as one if you sell unless you have the other end caps, then you could seller the joiner separately. Unfortunately Rockford stopped being American in the early part of the 00’s and moved to China like a lot of top brands which meant cheap. They are no longer the over engineered product they once were. That could be a Lockys96 Subwoofer Box, he was a forum member here a long time ago. I’d say £150. The sub, mono amp, midrange, tweeters and crossovers I’d eBay on a 99p no reserve.

That is why handling and tyre recommendation is subjective (unless the individual involved is a dumb dumb) as it’s based on personal opinion and choice. I am not sure how noticeable 5% is but to you and I it feels different. More comfortable and predictable to me but more tyre roll to you It’s all down to what an individual likes.

^ I think the last part is correct but if someone knows better please correct me.

So original worn OEM components replaced with poly? Makes sense for the improvement. Regarding unequal length drive shafts, the longer shaft is going to ‘wind up’ more than the shorter one, so the wheel on that side experiences a “lagging” effect and therefore less torque (because some of it is being used to twist the shaft). The other wheel will pull harder, so the car will tend to turn towards the side with the longer shaft.

A 10” rear will take a maximum of a 285 tyre, it will also take a 275, 265 and a 255. 265 & 255 will be stretched I know the profile is supposed to be a 35 to keep within stock radius but if you want more traction and a smoother ride on the rear, a 40 fits fine and works wonders. Increasing from a 17” to an 18” and wanting to keep the feel of the car the same meant I had to keep the sidewall the same. Hot rod tuning 101. You need a decent tyre wall. I didn’t go with custom rears (17x10) due to tyre choice but added a 40 profile on the rear 18” wheels with lovely results.

Re the Michelin’s make sure you can get the tyre size you want in the width you want. I looked at a set of custom wheels (17x10) rears but the selection was non existent in a 285/40/17. The mixture of poly and rubber OEM maybe a reason for things feeling different too, they will both react differently due to being different materials.

@Chris Wilson

You need to get in touch with Chris Wilson for geometry and handling. It’s his bread and butter. If you’re not running the standard 17” rears and you are on 18”s, you should have a 40 rear profile. Sidewall is key to grip. Also fit decent tyres, anything from Michelin’s top lines is great and they offer decent wheel protection too. The OEM torsen is okay but going to a 1.5 way plate OS Giken would be night and day. New engine, gearbox, diff mounts and the rubber doughnut would also help.

Probably an OS Giken and changing the ring and pinion out to make the gearbox work.

Did you get any updates on this? Are you 100% Syvecs or a Syvecs & OEM mix? Is the hypertune and DBW being fitted now? So you might being going single already?

But would you do the same to your white one? In all seriousness, you did it the best way. Nice clean OEM example then rescuing a tatty unloved aero and turning it into… Do we get to know the plans yet?

Sod what others, think or say. Your car, do what you want. I was thinking out aloud and of the long game, if you ever wanted to revert back to the OEM set up and add ons. Stock has always been sexy, it was the chavs who didn’t liked it. Some of the set ups from the past 20 years (when done well) were good but seeing something different is like finding a needle in a haystack. Not many “built, not bought” cars around, a lot of copy and paste work going on. Makes it all a bit meh. 100% with you on the memories.

Didn’t they sell? Prices seem all over. If there is a “rare part” for sale and enough people looking I can see how some of the estimates get so high. Specially when you see what the yanks are currently spending but with the $ - £ loosing a chunk this year I guess their money goes further in Japan. 1994 6 speed RHD JDM Supra sold for $100K in Chicago - https://www.mecum.com/lots/CH1021-468891/1994-toyota-supra/

Seems a shame to modify something as unique as yours. You have that single itch you need to scratch?

Active spoiler must be around 1K for a full kit today and I’d imagine you would be looking at the same for your U.K. wheels providing they are in mint condition. Is all this coming off your Silver U.K. Spec? If storage and money isn’t an issue I think I would be storing them. The prices are only going to go one way with parts like this. The longer you keep them, the rarer they become and the more the value *should* rise. @rider What are your thoughts on pricing?

-10 AN fittings welded to the cam covers and the Real Street catch can. https://www.realstreetperformance.com/real-street-performance-10-billet-baffled-catch-can-black-with-breather-filter.html

Wow, bet that is a real 5p 10p moment. So is the Syvecs working independently of the OEM system? As in no OEM ECU’s and only the Syvecs fitted with full control over the engine and gearbox? Or is it piggybacked to the original OEM ECU so the Syvecs does the engine with the OEM ECU controlling the tiptronic gearbox?

No worries at all. The K&N filters I adapted were similar to these (picture attached) - https://www.knfilters.co.uk/air-filters/marine-air-filters.html Just be careful regarding asking sellers of parts their thoughts. Not all will be upfront if it risks looking a sale. I think if it was me I’d be hitting up Chris Wilson (https://www.mkivsupra.net/profile/28-chris-wilson/) as this sounds like his sort of thing but he is old school. So email or phone, no PMs [email protected] or 07971-952084 48506AC5-3A10-48DA-86A1-89B3BD049CD0.webp

If your original has stopped working, I assume you know you can open it up to check what wrong? The plastic parts have possibly worn out or if someone has forcibly tried to move it’s due to being jammed as it won’t go up/down, they may have broken some teeth. You have - http://antennamastsrus.com/Toyota/Supra/Toyota Supra 1993-1998.htm Full Aerial - 86300-14411 - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8630014411 Mast only - 86337-14411 - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/8633714411 Might be worth trying the new forum trader TCB, they offer the best prices on new OEM parts.

How tight for space are you? The Jenvey stuff could probably be made to fit using a bespoke plate between the TB trumpets and body. There will obviously be a little outlay but you don’t seem afraid of that. The flip side is that sock filters have always been a compromise but I am thinking back to the 90’s! ITG have been around a long time, good quality stuff from what I remember. RAM air, (again going back a few years) used to be less dense than ITG. From personal experience of running twin Dellorto 40’s and later 45’s the slipover style was found to be quite restrictive for power delivery and the filters tended to ride down the trumpets so you would end up with foam directly inside the trumpet opening. Don’t be tempted to investigate the over oiling route either, as this will make things worse. I went with K&N marine filters in the end. Unless you are convinced your engine will run in dusty conditions you could consider running clean filters only but without the oil they won't remove any of the fine dust that causes engine wear. Just remember the moment you add oil you will restrict airflow and if the airflow capability is at or below the required amount before adding oil, power will be lost. Have you looked into a fine metal gauze?

ITG might be worth a look too - https://www.itgairfilters.com