Frank Bullitt

There was a recent discussion on here about VVT-i cars only having one cat and the second being faux or some sort of silencer. My VVT-i was failed for not having both cats in place and emissions. The only way I could get it through was a fit a second cat pipe from a pre-VVT-i which in turn lowered the emissions to the acceptable level. They also kept comparing my car to the specs of a UK car. I tried arguing the point but as I couldn't give definitive proof it was pretty much a moot.

Hope this helps - https://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?87963-Supra-Paint-Codes-vrs-quot-Real-quot-Name&p=764441&viewfull=1#post764441

More excuses from Tetsuya Tada-San - https://jalopnik.com/why-the-2020-toyota-supra-has-a-bmw-inline-six-and-why-1834540861

First official test-drives are supposed to be done at Goodwood this year.

It does beg the question what is their marketing team thinking, Toyota want us to accept this as a serious sports car so we will make sure its first race is against the nut mobile?! Also notice how the Zupra driver was shifting gears manually. Another great advertising job Toyota, even we know it's only currently available with a slush box. I wasnt sure spending 60K on a Zupra was worth it at first but after watching this video I'm convinced i'll be buying an amazing machine

Have you just bought P635 WGH or are you looking to purchased it? Are you saying it P635 WGH was on a private plate then swapped over or that the registration number does match the V5? Im confused.

A little more info and photos?

They plug into the back of the ignition barrel iirc.

You would be much better trying to pick up a forum owned car, especially the one Swampy has.

I'm guessing this one - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?344828-My-first-Supra!-(sort-of)

What widths and offsets are the front and rear wheels?

Yes, one is metal and one is plastic. The plastic one distorts with heat.

I went with a 15 row Setrab oil cooler (405mm) with a Mocal inline oil thermostat with -10 lines. The car is BPU. If going single I would just add another identical cooler. I don't think fans are needed unless your are on a track. E2A Engine or gearbox cooler?

Handbrake or brake fluid?

That would be the pertinent thing to do as sandwich plates have a habit of leaking.

SRD coolers look identical to Derale coolers.

Shoot Gary a PM, I'm sure he will be able help

14 months?! What were they doing for 14 months! I'll PM you about mappers later How big is your cooler and what size are the lines? You also need a inline thermostat and a temp gauge wouldn't go a miss either. Too cold is just as bad as too hot and in normal driving conditions a large cooler with no thermostat WILL keep the fluid too cold. Slippage in the torque converter and on the friction faces of brake bands and clutches is what will cause heat. A higher stall converter adds a LOT more heat. A deeper gearbox pan is also a good addition as it will allow you to hold more fluid and Lucas Oil Transmission Fix Stop Slip comes recommended too. Depending how the torque comes on I would image your are very close to the limit of the box i.e. The Emanage would have been piggybacked to the OEM ECU, so it would have controlled the engine whilst the OEM ECU still controlled the box. I always recommend joining this group on the forum - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/group.php?groupid=57 if you have the autobox, also it would be worth speaking with our guru DavidP regarding his upgrades to save your box - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?25493-David-P

I have had a quick look around and couldn't see anything bad mentioned, not publicly anyway. Have you spoken to them about the issues you have? If you have what did they say? Did they offer to sort it out? Getting the gearbox mapped well on these cars isn't an easy job, which version of the autobox are you running? J-spec, UK spec or tiptronic? I certainly wouldn't be driving it with the conditions you are describing. Did the auto box get a full flush and new filter before going single? Ideally you would want two coolers depending on size and an inline thermostat too to help regulate the fluid temperature in the box. What is your torque figure? Do you have a power run printout you can post up? No problem re the help Is this them?

Ryan has moved to pastures new I am afraid, he has become an honorary Arab oil sheikh in Dubai. By this I mean he now lives in Dubai and maps for the oil sheikhs Also, if you want to answer the questions I asked above there are lots of members on here that will probably chime in to try and help.

Where was it mapped? Who mapped it? When you say you aren't happy, what aren't you happy with? What does the AFR say on and off boost? Has it been fitted and mapped as a standalone ECU controlling the gearbox and engine or piggybacked with the OEM ECU still controlling the gearbox? What power are you running? Have you done anything to the autobox? I don't think I have ever heard of that ECU being fitted to a Supra on here but that isn't to say it's not up to the job. Full standalone ECUs I know of that are successfully controlling the autobox are Syvec & MoTeC for the J-Spec A340E and UK Spec A343E. For the tiptronic A343E (?) its only on a Syvecs but the MoTeC M150 would be up to the job if you wanted to pay for the R&D to be done. Full standalone ECU forum favourites are Syvecs, Link, some run AEM, Apexi Power FC, HKS and a very select few MoTeC because of the cost. But the best is always expensive. Piggyback wise it's pretty much GReddy E-Manage Ultimate or Blue but these are old tech now and not many map them. AEM do a nice piggyback but I don't know anyone running that. Take a look here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?129455-Supra-ECU-Register

The welds look like they are in the same place as mine, I would guess a colour change (looks like it has been powder coated) and new badge. Might be worth weighing it to see if it weighs the same as a TRD version. E2A Get a photo of the underside (in you are looking to buy) to make sure the badge hasn't been strategically placed to hide an extra hole. The TRD strut bar paint code is 1E3 or for the touch up pen #00258-001E3-21 - Charcoal Metallic/Phantom Gray Pearl.

Are you doing both or just the one? The Red wire is going to the fog light switch. If you fit two of the PCB's connect a wire between them, then connect the one on the drivers side to the fog light switch. Fit the PCB as per the photo