Frank Bullitt

These might still be available to buy new but if you are happy with a refurb try SGS engineering - https://www.sgs-engineering.com

Rebuilt OEM and hybrid can be reliable as long at they aren't subjected to abuse. Things like bouncing off the rev limiter, anti-lag and 2-step. Rebuilding using stock sizes would enable you to increase boost slightly so you would gain a little more power. Going hybrid, as in re-working the OEM turbo to take larger internals from the "disco potato" (2860) or 3071 will give you power but terrible lag and an awful drop in torque and power when turbo 2 two comes on line. Having looked at the various printouts it looks like a terrible conversion. If you want bang for buck and a quick spooling 500hp supra then a cast manifold and small single is the recipe. There was a similar conversation going on recently, this thread might give you a few options - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?355254-Hybrid-highflow-twin-turbos-VS-small-single-turbo-setup

Do your OEM turbos need a rebuild? Why hybrids? Do you want more power? Are you currently running sequential or TTC? If running sequential, do you plan on running TTC in future?

No worries, I must ask, what are you planning to do? Hybrids? If that is the case, J-specs make better hybrids than UK specs.

The bolt pattern on the turbo where it bolts to the OEM manifold is different, to use UK specs turbos you will need a UK spec manifold. The turbo heat shield is different too.

No bolt pattern is different between the UK and J-spec turbos. You need the full kit.

Wow! Would you be allowed to take any photos and post them up? It would make a great thread, Si's View of the World. You could be the RAFs Alan Whicker What motor is powering it? Those Ford Zetecs go well with a turbo strapped on them...

No problem

Same TPS used (89452-22080) until the engines went VVT-i (89452-30150).

Loosen the back of the seat from inside the boot space. I think it's held in place with five nut type screws along the bottom. You should be able to access the entire mechanism.

A blast from the past, looks like you are still having fun. Amazing office, the views must be spectacular. The new toy looks fun, is it for track days or just for hitting the b roads? Bet it feels quick, how far off the floor do you sit?

Try these guys - http://www.munichlegends.co.uk they should be able to help

Is that 500-600 at the crank or at the wheels? Also, are you looking to make the most power possible for your outlay (bang for buck) or are you happy to invest a lot, for little gain to get the result you want? If you are still running the rubber OEM brake lines and don't know if they have been changed, it would be worth your while checking them when you are next working on the car. They started perishing years ago and quite a few members found they had been running on borrowed time when swapping over to braided. Eibach on the B6 will provide a firm ride but there have been a few B6 fitment issues recently. Sorry to sound like a broken record but have a chat with the guru who resides in deepest darkest Shropshire. The B6 fitment issues are mentioned in this thread - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthr...rs-Bilstein-B6 I don't think you would need to go with the 220 diff. The smaller should be fine as long as it's refurbished and the torsen swapped out for the OS Giken. When I talk about the rear end, I mean diff ratio. Hot rod tuning 101. The higher ratios will give better torque and acceleration compared with lower ratios. But lower ratios produce higher top speeds and better fuel economy. Higher ratios mean the engine has to run faster to achieve a given speed. Lower ratios allow the engine to run more economically to maintain that given speed. So the manual diff ratios are considered low and the auto and NA are considered high. You can also mess about with tyre profile sizes to achieve this depending on wheel size and offset. Water injection is great, don't worry about going too fancy. Set it up on a pressure switch to read off the intake so it comes on over 1 bar. Go for a true 50/50 mix of deionised water and Methanol done on weight not volume as the density is different. That said, it only increases the water content slightly so the mix isn't as strong if you decide to do it the other way. No problem regarding the help Hybrid turbo build quality has improved over the years so I would expect a set to last as long as they aren't subjected to anti-lag or 2-step. As you have the VVT-i you have the added bonus of the intake camshaft adjusting to suit low down torque making you quicker off the mark. If you increase the size of the OEM turbos you will add lag, how much depends on how big you go but the VVT-i can (if tuned correctly) help minimise the impact. Remember, no matter what, if you go hybrid or single, you will loose some bottom end grunt when comparing it to BPU OEM twins. Our BPU VVT-i has a Syvecs S6Plus fitted along with a few extras. She is currently producing 414ft.lbs of torque by 2,900rpm and 369 RHHP at 5,730 rpm on OEM turbos mapped around 1.1 bar. My mapper couldn't go beyond this because of the OEM waste gate causing boost creep. You don't have to swap the VVT-i TB but it is terrible tech and hard to map correctly if you want the ECU controlling it. It runs on a clutch based system with gearing powered by a DC motor. Throttle response isn't linear because of a heavy spring which returns the motor back to closed if it is not powered. It's also alot slower compared to these new Bosch DBW TBs. So you can stay with what is fitted, go with the oldskool pre-facelift TB set-up or go down a true DBW route which means using a Bosch unit from a Porcshe, making an adaptor so it bolts directly to the intake and fitting the DWB pedal. I went with the true DBW mod in 2015. I couldn't recommend it highly enough and as you have a manual it's a no brainer. Just remember, if you go with the DBW mod and it goes tits up, you will need a recovery truck but the response and ability for your mapper to fine tune it is worth it. Forget about the Munro kit, it's all hogged out for maximum flow which is great if you want a car that comes alive over 4,500-5,000 rpm.

Yes please 1. 214supra 2. Mark C 3. Frank Bullitt

Spot on, absolutely pointless unless you want to ruin the drive of the car by increasing the lag factor. TT or small single.

How far do you want to take the build? How much would you be looking to spend? Can you do any work yourself because parts wise it's pretty cheap, it's the labour that whacks up the price. Tim at TB developments has a really nice single kit on the go. He has a lovely ported Treadstone cast manifold with a reworked wastegate. Again, just like CWs SMIC nothing else like it out there. Forget about a screamer pipe, you want the exhaust gas as hot as possible so run the wastegate back into the exhaust system. Match it with a Garrett turbo, something small. They have better early and midrange power but don't have the top end that a Precision turbo provides. Camshafts stay stock, forget about changing them. Intake stay stock, yes it will give you horsepower but at the expense of torque. You want quick you want torque. Rebuild your brakes. CW does stainless bits and great pads (can you tell I'm on commission? ) fit OEM discs. Upping the HP is great but make sure your stopping gear is spot on. Sort your suspension out, make sure it's all good and that geometry is spot on. Replace your torsen with an OS Giken 1.5 way LSD. You will kill your OEM version which may mean serious down time. Look at changing the rear end, going for an NA/auto ratio would make for a rapid car but at the expense of top end. Chuck some water injection in there, inject it into the TB. Use it as protection, not for extra power. Let it keep the engine cool. One thing to note, you mention the desire for a particular sound. A cast manifold (fast spooling) sounds very different to a mandrel exhaust. Cast is deep and a mandrel is higher pitched.

No worries, if you remember to keep things simple and small you can't go wrong. Velocity not volume is the key to a fast spooling set up. I believe CW's intercoolers have supported up to 600hp quite happily as they are an extremely well engineered bespoke product. There is nothing comparable on the market.

Does your TT6 have VVT-i? If you want a quick spooling set up you want a cast manifold and a small single with a Chris Wilson SMIC and a 40 profile tyre on the rear to help you put the power down.

I believe they are pretty good with the rally cars, I wonder what they could do with a Supra...

You can check Amazon price history here (https://camelcamelcamel.com) Mr P

Pain in the arse is more like it, I don't blame anyone for charging 1K to do this job. Especially now the plastics and clips are so old they will now be prone to breaking, it must be an absolute nightmare. If you think the wiring behind my dash was bad you should have seen what I found under the carpet and in the boot. Must have been in excess of 5kg! Also your version too

These guys are the best in the business in the UK and should be able to advise you correctly - https://www.noswizard.com Just remember too much and you will blow the welds on the intake.