Frank Bullitt

Of course, completely my own opinion which I have absolutely no problem sharing We will have to agree to disagree on the other bit as I feel it is down to us to look out for new members to stop them paying through the nose unnecessarily whilst giving chancers a little reality check! This car being a prime example - https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:Du5tp-9DqnkJ:https://www.platinumautos.co.uk/used-toyota-supra-princes-risborough-buckinghamshire-2626117+&cd=1&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=uk

I don't think our prices mirror Japan for two reasons. The condition of the parts advertised more often than not surpasses the crap offered up for sale in the UK and their tax system. I also have no problem with people pointing out issues and shortcomings with cars for sale. Especially when new potential owners, who don’t have the wealth of experience or knowledge and don’t always know what an OEM car should or shouldn’t look like when it is for sale at the extreme top end of current asking prices. This clubs ethos has always been about helping others out and stopping them from being bent over and shafted unnecessarily. If people want to profit (more often than not by greed) by selling jap cars and parts and have opted to choose this marque they have made a mistake. Plain and simple. They should have gone with the LHD Supra or R34 instead. As an example I have bought many new OEM parts direct from Amayama and TCB cheaper than people have had offered me used parts for. That should tell you all you need to know. I have also given away more parts than I care to think about and have posted them all at my expense, guess that makes me a mug for not looking to screw others over at every given opportunity. Sorry to say it but exactly the same can be said for most of the cars being listed for sale too and it's f*@king pathetic. Each car for sale needs to be judged on it's own merits. Just because it's a TT6, TT auto or UK spec et cetera doesn't automatically mean it should be listed at X price unless the seller has the primitive intelligence of an amoeba. Any cars or parts advertised for sale at a reasonable price sell and people don't complain, those that aren’t hang around for a long time and with the seller usually given a bit of a reality check now and again.

The UK market isn’t weak and our prices are inline with the Aussies so it's not like we are loosing out. It boils down to the old RHD versus LHD scenario/debate, with a little supply and demand thrown in for good measure. Being realistic the demand for RHD parts isn't there as the market is oversaturated by comparison, unless of course you are talking about the UK spec. Even then, that market is so small only UK spec owners or our European cousins usually consider paying the absurd prices asked for UK specific parts. If the secondhand market is stagnating and sellers are being left with parts that they can't shift or they aren’t getting the prices they want, then maybe, just maybe, rather than blaming others for lowballing, being cheapskates or time wasters they should reevaluate their pricing structure. I would suggest looking at the constant not the variable but of course that all becomes rather uncomfortable. So much so sellers prefer to point the finger and blame others for their shortcomings. When individuals go around buying up and hording parts when they don't need them in the hope that they increase in value that becomes unadulterated greed and capitalism at its very finest and is about as far removed from what this club used to stand for as possible. So could it be that the lack of increase is due to people getting sick and tired of Supra tax and the inability of other owners to do something decent and right for a fellow enthusiast…

Wise decision. The spoiler less OEM boot lids are another uncommon item.

Was your car previously owned by a guy called Mike? If it's his car, you have bought yourself a lovely motor.

I can't help you with sourcing anything and it's your choice but who gives a f*@k what other people think. Everyone knows autos are quicker, especially with VVT-i Yes, it's a tiptronic so what. Tiptronic transmissions were developed by Porsche back in 1990. You now have a portmanteau word being widely used, Manumatic. An automatic transmission that allows convenient driver control of gear selection. Used by Alpina, Aston, Audi, BMW, Mercedes-Benz & Porsche to name a few. Don't see many people snubbing them because of this type of transmission. Don't let others peoples lack of understanding or blinkered attitude affect they way you feel about your car and how it looks. If you wanted a more modern feel find yourself a nice Toyota or Lexus steering wheel with flappy paddles to update the look. Good luck with what ever you decide Take a look here - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?318422-Quicksilver-progress-thread-00-TT-Tiptronic-Facelift-Yaris-wheel-fully-fitted&p=4094623&viewfull=1#post4094623

No worries, all the best for 2020.

He ended up with a better office. I believe Lee bought the business from him. You will need two if you want both rear reverse lights to act as fogs. If you're interested in his office - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?344682-My-Future-within-this-Forum and here http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?344682-My-Future-within-this-Forum http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?355263-Yes-I-m-Still-Alive!

Never heard of a dyno offering insurance when mapping. As Swampy said it's all at your own risk. Get it running safely on a dyno then finish it on the road. Good mappers cost the earth and are often booked up well in advance. Dave Rowe & Fraser McKellar being two that immediately spring to mind. Their prices are eye watering too but you pays your money and you takes your choice. I would guess most mappers have a skeleton or two in their closet. I would be more concerned about how they dealt with any issues and how far they went to ensure the problem (what ever it is) was rectified to the customers satisfaction.

Did you see my post above? Lean is any number above 14 on the AFR and any number below 14 is considered rich. The numbers you have quoted in all of your posts show you car is running rich not lean

Thats rich, rich is lower than 14, lean above 14

The world is your lobster! If it's not a rude question, whats your budget like? Would you be happy spending 1K, 2K or upwards of 5K? Are you or any mates handy with a spanner or would you need someone to do the work for you? Labour (depending how far you want to go with a refresh) will eat a chunk of the budget. It can never hurt to sympathetically refresh 25 year old components. Shocks and springs might be all that is required to replace what you feel you have lost over time. But there maybe other issues that shocks and springs can't fix. This next bit could be akin to opening Pandora's box and you would need to get the car in the air. Depending on mileage, history and usage of the car check for worn ball joints, worn suspension bushes, give the top and bottom arms a good looking at. Especially on the rear. Do you know if the car on it's original wheel bearings? Also check the hubs, make sure they are in good condition. Physically check the anti-roll bars, check their bushes. Check end links. All potential problems due to age and all replaceable. Diff mounts, subframe mounts, engine mounts, gearbox mounts are all items to consider. To give you some ideas check out the links below. Really nice work done in all of them. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?343238-Rear-sub-frame-swap-off-for-galvanzing-may-turn-into-a-project-thread http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?346463-My-96-Uk-tt6-thread-ongoing-project! http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?352572-1994-NA-Overhaul http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?343109-Burna-s-UK-Spec-Restoration

What do you mean by best alternative to refresh the suspension? What are you trying to achieve? Are you having suspension problems? CW will see you right with your suspension needs, he always sets up each car individually so you know it's done right and not just off a spec sheet.

The one below isn't too bad either. [video=youtube;wV5i-mXUi-4] All members cars too I believe.

US majority were aerotops but came with manual or auto. Their hardtops were more limited in both forms. The Japanese aero came as a TT but only with the autobox.

USDM car

I'll go with the easy one first, have you tried reconnecting the disconnected air con fan?

Same as the j-spec without the lip I believe. UK Spec front UK Spec rear Kev has the european front plate holder on his which offers you another alternative.

Due to what you are specifically requesting I would highly recommend you having a chat with Chris Wilson, our resident geometry specialist. His number is 07971 952 084 or you can email him at [email protected] There have been a few B6 fitment issues recently mentioned in this thread - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?353402-Big-problems-shock-absorbers-Bilstein-B6

No worries, good luck.

Still available from Amayama. Factor in shipping costs, handling, import and VAT just in case you get caught. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/5211414100 It might be worth trying Paul at TCB as they are pretty much the lowest prices, very comparative in comparison to anywhere else in the UK for new OEM parts - http://www.tcbparts.co.uk/contact_us.htm and don't forget to try and wangle a club discount. Every little helps Part number you want it 52114-14100

Gesundheit.

So anyone else bought a MKV? Would be good to see some photos uploaded with any specs or mods.

For the avoidance of doubt and for the sake of absolute clarity, is this being said in a German or Japanese accent or a really weird mixture of both?

Hi Herbie, no worries about the post. Just I heads up though, I can't give you specific on NA/T. You would need someone with better knowledge than I but I can run through certain technical details with you. For NA/T and no particular order I would be chatting with David P obviously, Sidewaysdan (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?18720-sidewaysdan) has a lovely NA/T and has spoke to you in this thread, Style (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?32567-Style), Parm_93 has or had an NA/T stroker build (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?44747-Parm_93), Mike2JZ is very clued up too (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?30620-Mike2JZ) and Josh42 (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?30942-Josh42) had a very expensive build Fitting the thicker head gasket will have lowered your compression, not sure by how much as I'd need other info to figure it out but even then it's only a rough idea. Whilst HP will be affected it will be the drop in torque that you notice. By lowering the compression it is possibly making your car seem slower than before. As compression has changed I would recommend a remap no matter what. Any thoughts on using a different ECU? Nothing as expensive as a standalone, something like the AEM FIC. This would give you more scope to appropriate mappers as David mentioned and also allow the mapper to make finer adjustments as each map is 21X17 on the AEM compared to 17x17 on the GReddy. You could also store two maps on the FIC, one for low boost and one for high boost if that would be of interest to you? David also mentioned your W58, you need to keep in mind that it's quite possibly at its limits. Again, mapping should help extend the life of the box if you don't want to look at an R154 swap. When you say stock injectors, NA or swapped to TT? If TT, JDM or UKDM? Rough rule of thumb is to equate 1cc to 1hp. This will also give you an idea of the percentage your injectors are running at. Regarding your exhaust, cats will slow and limit flow. If you don't want the extra noise of a straight through exhaust maybe a sports cat could be a good alternative or something like the Tanabe exhaust. If it doesn't bolt straight to the NA it could be made to fit and it would be a nice alternative. I know a lot of TT guys like them for keeping things discreet. I wouldn't consider upping boost to changing turbos at this stage unless it was something you were already considering.