Frank Bullitt

All you need to know is in my answer to your question. Yes there is everything wrong with doing that unless you want to find yourself and your Supra sitting in a ditch or worse.

E2A Just a heads up OP, they are still available from Toyota at £130 per side.

Yes. Everything. Unless you enjoy sitting in ditches.

I love the stack stuff as it's tried and tested. I have one fitted to monitor the tiptronic autobox temperature. Ashamedly I never look at it as it's hidden away in the glovebox but the alarm is set to sound off should things get too hot!

No worries, the initial outlay might seem eye watering but I can assure you it's not in the grand scheme of things. Well, not compered to a blown engine anyway. You really need to monitor what is going on before something really expensive goes wrong.

Hope this help you mate Boost - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/stack-turbo-boost-pressure-gauge-mechanical-249475/ AFR - https://www.demon-tweeks.com/eu/stack-wideband-lambda-gauge-249506/

Tax, tax and more tax. Plus exorbitant fuel prices. I would imagine petrol powered cars will become the privilege of the very wealthy.

There is only one way to know the true power and that is to pull the engine and put it on an engine dyno. If you want an accurate figure to the wheels get a power run on a hub dyno. Torque Developments International PLC in Thurrock Trade Park in Essex or Abbey MotorSport Ltd in Oxted. Dyno Dynamics are inertia dyno's and work on the principle of the acceleration of a known mass over time. Their rollers are the known mass. Weighing in at over 1100 kgs +. The car gets strapped down to the machine and the dyno collects it's data. It is able to calculate horsepower by measuring the acceleration (in RPM) of the rollers. This is why gearing can affect the dyno results which leads to over reading. Now that the dyno has recorded the horsepower curve, it can take the integral of that curve and get the torque curve. Since the dyno’s power calculations are based on the acceleration of mass over time in regards to RPM gearing is very important. A vehicle with a lower gear ratio can accelerate the mass to a higher speed using less engine RPM so it will show a higher horsepower number than a car with a higher gear ratio. If a car is able to accelerate the dyno’s rollers from 200rpm (roller speed) to 300rpm (roller speed) in 1500rpm (engine speed) then the dyno is going to record more power than a car that did that in 2000rpm (engine speed).

Would it not be simpler to pull the main fuse or am I not looking at the bigger picture?

Pop your registration in here for UK MOT history - https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk It has the B03B diff which is a large case diff which has the 3.266 ratio.

I don't think they go back to retest, the old scores remain listed so it gives you an option to compare lots of different types. One nice feature of the Michelin is that it has, for want of a better word, an inbuilt lip protector. The way it fits to the wheel, it almost hugs the lip so protects it from damage should you accidentally scuff it. The Conti have a slight edge apart from handling, wear and buy again. I would guess it's a softer compound in comparison to the Michelin. If you are happy with Michelin it's not a bad tyre, far from it.

No worries. The PS4s is more advanced but only available from 19" upwards. The PS4 is the replacement for the Michelin Pilot Sport 3 PS3 but much much better. Lots of rave reviews prompted a lot of us to switch 3-4 years ago. I have tried searching for the old threads but it looks like Mawbs has deleted them in his forum clean up. I'll see if I can find some of the reviews. Vredestein Sessanta were on mine when I picked it up. The back end felt so loose, never planted. Every time I hit a drain the rear wanted to step out. Michelin all the way. E2A http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?336294-Michelin-Pilot-Super-Sport-Pilot-Sport-4 https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/91858/michelin-pilot-sport-4-review https://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Article/2018-Test-World-Summer-Tyre-Test.htm https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/91858/michelin-pilot-sport-4-review

Michelin Pilot Sport 4 PS4 or Michelin Pilot Super Sport would be my choice if they are still available in the OEM sizes. E2A Here you go. https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s312p135337/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Pilot_Sport_4_PS4_-_235_45_R17_%2897Y%29_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_71dB https://www.camskill.co.uk/m54b0s321p155864/Michelin_Tyres_Car_Michelin_Pilot_Sport_4_PS4_-_255_40_R17_%2898Y%29_XL_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_A_NoiseClass%3A_2_Noise%3A_71dB

He herds what? Sheep? Cows? Elephants?

I guess it would allow one to find a real mint example but when you build the car yourself, as you know, there is a lot more of a connection. All that blood spilt, all those cuts, the swearing it all builds a bond. Which is a ridiculous thing to say as cars are supposed to be an inanimate object but the connection seems to run deep.

I think that is the boat most of us are in. The jump seems too much of a risk and once you are out of ownership finding a car as clean will be nigh on impossible to find.

Makes sense to me now

Airbox lower cold air feed, the one that sits underneath the headlight? If it is, it's the same for '93-'02. They were available new from Toyota (17752-46060) when I ordered one in '18. I should still have my old one in the garage loft which you are more than welcome to. It just needs the foam gasket renewing where it slots into the airbox.

Sorry it's been a long day and my brain is frazzled. I seem to be getting in a muddle. I thought we were talking about the collectable R34s increasing from £25k to £100k in comparison with the Supra TT6. Not the NA Supra or GTT & GTST. Hence the supply and demand analogy and mentioning of production numbers being lower than the Supra.

Possibly but I don't think they sell for circa 100K... So were are we with collector status, desirable colours and models. TRD conversions have to be at the pinnacle of collectable status don't they? Colour wise, Monkey Shit Brown, DGJ and 576 (yellow) seem to be the least common in either manual six speed or auto flavour. GZ aeros, late production (2002) TT6 and any White TT6 à la Paul Walker. To me, these seem to be the sound investments over anything else.

No idea in all honesty. I am talking about the fifth generation produced from 1999–2002 GF-BNR34. Wiki gives the following breakdown for production figures which is what I based my comment on. GT-R (Series 1) = 2,709 V·Spec = 4,193 V·Spec N1 = 38 V·Spec UK = 81 V·Spec Hong Kong = 10 V·Spec New Zealand = 5 V·Spec Singapore = 10 Unknown (Series 1) = 20 (pre-production cars including GT-R (Series 1), V·Spec and V·Spec N1). GT-R (Series 2) = 1,268 V·Spec II = 1,855 V·Spec II Nür = 718 V·Spec II N1 = 18 V·Spec II New Zealand = 2 M·Spec = 366 M·Spec Nür = 285 NISMO Z-Tune = 19 Note: The Z-tune were built on used cars, which is why that number can not be added to the total figure below. Total = 11,578

It's not as simple as that, you need to look at the bigger picture where the R34 is concerned. They weren't ever produced in the numbers the RHD Supra was and they weren't sold in the USA. Supply and demand which is something you just don't have with the RHD Supra, well not to the same extent anyway. I would rather the Supra be a slow appreciating classic rather than taking off like the R34 did as there is a lot less chance of the bubble bursting which would leave a lot of people severely out of pocket.

If you bought the parts years ago when prices were cheap then realistically they owe you very little. Any cars or parts advertised for sale often sell for the asking price and usually quite quickly if the pricing structure is reasonable. Just as Craig's car did for example. I would say it's six of one half a dozen of another. Buyers will only pay what they think something is worth, trying to force people to pay high prices won't work especially if the prices are already higher than UK buyers are willing to pay. I would suggest looking further afield for people who are willing to pay more or who have deeper pockets. If you want a specific price then you are going to have to work to achieve it.

It's not and certainly not an OEM flavour so should be priced accordingly. Front bumper, front bumper indicators, facelift rear spats, facelift rear lights, aftermarket front speakers, aftermarket exhaust, aftermarket roof the list goes on. Oem and stock is where the maximum pricing seems to be, this car is far from it.