Frank Bullitt

Really, I paid £125 for my pair.

Have you thought lack of choice maybe down to this Wuhan virus with stocks selling out and replacements delayed. If you aren’t in a rush might be worth your while waiting.

For a bespoke, personally tailored map, built from the ground up with dyno time, road mapping and tweaking you can easily go past 5K.

I didn’t say it was just for autos

Then I would go with what he suggests. As an FYI, the S6 and S6Plus were replaced with the S7 and S7Plus respectively, S7 if manual and S7Plus if auto.

If I was in your situation I’d rather fit an older MoTeC. Who is your mapper going to be?

I use these guys for my spices - https://www.spicesofindia.co.uk/

That looks really nice, the noise is going to be something else Haven’t seen this kit before, it looks good. How’s the quality? Do you not think the 272 cams are a bit much? Are you having any headwork done?

Nice rare beastie, don’t see many GZ’s come up for sale. Good price too.

Looks a lovely car and pretty cheap too. Can’t see this hanging around long. GLWYS

It’s a sad state of affairs when secondhand parts command almost the same premium as new parts. He said tax, not taxi. Must be getting deaf in your old age

Good news

In that case you should Supra tax it!

Are these links of any use - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?308820-Greddy-Profec-B-Spec-2-boost-controller-settings&p=3881825 or this http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?274129-Greddy-Profec-B-Spec-II-settings Done on TT’s but the principal should be the same. Failing that try Mike - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/member.php?30620-Mike2JZ

Or go with the PHR version instead. There is no way would I would be putting any money into the pocket of that shyster Nero or his business after they screwed over a customer when their mechanic made an illegal U-Turn, crashed his car and they washed their hands of all responsibility. It’s a principal thing more than anything else. I’d be going with Real Street or PHR for buying parts stateside that you can’t get off the shelf over here. EDIT The legal battle has been going on over two years - https://tiremeetsroad.com/2018/11/20/titan-motorsports-damages-customers-car-refuses-to-repair-and-probably-wont/

That does look lovely Dunk.

What is your budget? What is crazy money? Any features you specifically want your ECU to have?

Go with Real Street mains, theirs need less machine work. Speak with Chris Wilson, he uses someone in the UK for his lineboring.

If you’re set on a manual it’s going to cost, I’d still recommend a drive in the auto if you can as it’s not a bad box, far from it. Even by todays standards. This is what is possible on a modified A340 transmission plus a hell of a lot more. 550hp, is that at the crank or at the wheels? Either way it’s pretty much the best power level for a road going Supra. Much more than this and you will have trouble getting the power down. If you haven’t seen it, although old, this is a good watch. Yes the box was pretty indestructible when it left the assembly line running OEM power before people started playing with them but as I said above these cars and obviously the transmissions ranges anywhere from 18 and 27 years old. Being realistic unless it’s bone stock then think potentially 18 - 27 years of abuse. Parts will wear out and breakdown over time, to think otherwise would be akin to burying your head in the sand. If it was being sold with a box that crutches then it would be a concern, as it’s been sorted by a reputable trader using what I will assume was the last of the available OEM parts before Toyota ran out and sold off the tooling then I would say it’s worth investigating. Also have a chat with the traders that have worked on the car, ask for their opinion. Chris Wilson (07971-952084 or email [email protected]) won’t mince his words Hope this helps

A piggyback? Yes, it’s pretty much verbatim for what was said. Problem with piggybacks is finding a mapper who is prepared to map one and the lack of protection. The GReddy stuff is so old now and was a cheap solution back then but then TT’s were 5K and parts were abundant so it didn’t matter if things didn’t work out

Horses for courses but if I was set on a manual 6 speed the black one would be a consideration due to the rebuilt gearbox & diff. The latter not so much as the parts are still available to do this but the gearbox is a no brainer. When you consider the price being asked for knackered 6 speed or secondhand 6 speed boxes with a very high chance of not being able to rebuild them due to many discontinued parts it makes a lot of sense. These cars are now between 18 and 27 years old, as such you are much better off letting you head rule your heart. This means buying on condition, ideally a long provable service history with pro active owners that are changing parts due to age rather than failure. Yearly oil changes irrespective of mileage covered and ideally as few owners as possible with previous owners being long term keepers. That said, I prefer the auto and would be knocking on drift bears door asking about his. I would highly recommend you try and get a passenger ride in a manual, auto and tiptronic in stock, BPU and single turbo form before deciding. What are your plans for ownership? Drive and enjoy or mod it for more power?

This is a little over budget - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?357657-1996-Supra-Twin-Turbo-6spd-Manual-%A328-750&p=4319420#post4319420

OEM ECU’s are going faulty due to age, the OEM traction control system is shyte and tries to kill you at every given opportunity, much better knock protection and 21st century tech. Also, if you happen to have the tiptronic box it means the car won’t try to change down over 120 leptons. Protecting your investment and piece of mind as we keep hearing these cars aren't cheap anymore. Bang for buck it isn’t but if you can afford it then why not.

I have the Syvecs S6Plus fitted but I couldn’t recommend it. Reason 1 It was sold as plug and play but was far from it, granted I did ask a lot of it but was told (before I bought it) that it was more than capable of doing what I wanted. With a lot of work and a lot of money it was possible but far from easy. I went an alternative route that cost me a lot in mapping to get the car how it is today because none of the Syvecs mappers filled me with any confidence. I went for a bespoke map built from the ground up, all from scratch. Lots of dyno time, lots of road testing, tweaking on both until it was done. Reason 2 Support was and is (in my opinion) terrible for an ECU that costs what this does, their forum is dead so if you are in urgent need of help you are f@#ked unless someone who knows these is a phone call away. My ECU is maxed, no more inputs, no expander kit for this either. That said, it’s got great engine protection and decent traction control two things I wanted. Reason 3 Another guy on here has the same spec car as me (tiptronic VVT-i) but in single turbo form. We bought the ECU at the same time but his needed mapping before mine. He went with a Syvecs recommended mapper and I believe his car still has issues that need sorting. Summing Up Would I recommend going standalone, yes. But I would choose a different ECU. Either a MoTeC M130 or MoTeC M150 and I would do my best to secure Fraser MacKellar as my mapper of choice. Yes the MoTeC will cost you more than a Syvecs as you have to pay extra to unlock parts of the ECU that you get with the Syvecs but the piece of mind you would get and aftermarket support, to me, would be worth paying the extra.