Frank Bullitt

There is this one which is a VVTI tiptronic, this is the promo video I think Jay is talking about. [video=youtube;Nlby5KOc-vg] But I don't think this had the new Whifbitz DBW kit fitted.

Yeah they do, you obviously haven't been in one of the fast ones!

You're right, although the itrader is the first thing I check before contacting a seller. I always forget about the disputes section! Check out the one from AxelB, you got off lightly although he did get his money back!

That is an amazing menagerie of animals you have there Chris. Rescue dogs are extremely rewarding albeit sometimes hard work because of the damage done by previous owners & the trauma of being in a rehoming centre. Better than a kid any day!

How has the guy got 100% feedback rating if this has been done before?

Found this on youtube for those without face ache.

I have looked but unfortunately I am yet to find a spreadsheet with specific points on the torque curve at 3k, 3.5k, 4k, 4.5k,5k & 5.5k. Looking at the independent info out there they appear to be within 5% of each other assuming you are comparing apples to apples. But you never are when you take a really close look at the specs of the turbochargers. They always have differing wheel sizes by 1-2mm. Sometimes they have the same inducer size but their exducer is larger causing the Trim to be greater. To be fair knowing this it’s really hard to say what company is making the best turbochargers. Just by enlarging the wheels exducer, pushing the turbo to have a higher trim, we know would then favour more efficiency at higher boost levels while loosing efficiency at lower P.R. levels. You can abuse Garrett turbos and they just keep asking for more. Precision makes a great compressor wheel but it seems that oil seal issues & reliability problems are still a lot more common than they should be.

Really? I'd be interested to see some dyno readouts if you could post some

Your right sorry, my mistake the AVR is THX certified I had it confused with another model. For speaker type "Normal" can this be changed to small? Low frequency information below 120Hz is, for the most part, non-directional, meaning that even if the info is “crossing over” from a surround channel, you won’t know it. The effect will still sound like its coming from the surround, thanks to the principles of psycho-acoustics. If you are concerned with changing the crossover point for the subwoofer start at 100Hz then change to 120Hz and see if that helps. Also, have you done a system reset as Scott suggested as it might help the AVR pick up the Sub when running Audyssey.

I've just replaced my rad as it had seen better days. I had the choice of going with the cheaper shiny version or the more expense not so shiny OEM and sticking with the ugly viscous fan & rad cowl. I went OEM I spoke with CW about this, hopefully he can repeat (probably for the umpteenth time) what he told me as I can't remember now

GTX3582R would be perfect, if going single again I would go Garrett. I honestly don't know what the fascination with Precision is, be different and do it with style http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/turbocharger#GTX3582R If you want to be different again go to Owen Developments and get their M-Spec GTX3582. http://www.owendevelopments.co.uk/product/393/Owen_Developments_M-Spec_Turbos/

Here is a link to the isolation pads I was speaking about - http://explore.dolphinmusic.co.uk/search?p=Q&w=auralex+subdude As I said if you are DIY friendly they can be made for a lot less The Y splitter attaches to the end of the phono cable turning the connection into 2 rather than 1, changing it from Mono to Stereo. In the days of stereo you would normally hook up a preout to a powered sub and would adjust the crossover and level for both. Most subs at the time did not have signal detection to tell if a stereo or mono signal was used and the low pass filter would send both low freq signals to a buffer and the sub would amplify in mono. This would also allow independent subs for left and right channels, until Pro Logic and DD were created/developed. Where a down mix was needed to perform base management vs. running 6 channels of preout to a sub the receiver did the work and one connection to the sub was all that was needed. It *may* solve the Audyssey not recognising the sub, again I find this strange. Silly question but I will ask anyway, was the sub switched on? Also in the nicest possible way I wouldn't get too hung up on the THX thing either, it's cack! Like a lot of equipment your AVR isn't THX certified either Looking at the photo of your sub again the settings I can see seem to all the way to one side, am I seeing this right?

First things first, that is a lovely looking set up you have there I can't see anything in the room that should cause reflection & the positioning of the sub is fine. It certainly shouldn't be behind you if you can help it, by having it in front it helps the bass mix with the sound from the speakers. You could possibly look at moving it further away from the wall and further into the room. I would almost certainly look at adding an isolation pad (make one if you are DIY friendly) to sit the sub on or add some feet if you have this option? I have both on mine and it's certainly "cleaned" up the bass as less traveled into the floor. Does the system (AVR) ever have trouble recognising the sub when you first switch it on? i.e when it wakes from "sleep mode" or is it just Audyssey that doesn't recognise the sub? Have you tried using a Y splitter to see if that makes any difference? With all 5 speakers set to small on the AVR and at 80Hz that seems okay. The subwoofer mode on the AVR should be set LFE and LPF for LFE set to 120Hz. The Subwoofer should have a volume setting option within the AVR, this needs to be set at 0. Any volume increase should be done from the subwoofer. I wouldn't look at doing the sub crawl, as mentioned above just move it further away from the wall and into the room more.

Pictures of the set-up would be good to get an idea of positioning of the speakers and also to see how reflective the room is. You keep mentioning the crossovers are to THX reference levels. What are the crossovers for the speakers set to? What is the crossover of the sub set to? How is the sub wired to the AVR? What is the channel level for the sub set to on the AVR? Can you set the volume on the sub? If so, what is it set to? Where is the sub positioned? Have you tried the sub crawl? Have you tried an isolation pad for the sub?

Al. I have just picked a few lines out of things you have said above, hopefully not taken out of context please say if I have. Can you explain what you mean? What is your definition of a Criminal? Also how you think Prison life is? You seem to have some pretty solid ideas and I wondered why

Possibly because the out voters haven't done it secretly, there are only a few members who have voted to stay in and said why. If people want to stay in then it would be good to hear the reasons why as some of the out voters might have not looked at things from a certain angle. It should be an open debate, not a hit and run

35k+ ?

If only Cameron had the balls to stand up for the UK like this! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbJp8zxduWk

So who voted in?

A few sets have been for sale recently in various places. One set went for £400, one advertised for £700 and sold for £550, one advertised for £600 and sold at that price.

Might be worth trying Paul @ Whifbitz

Out.

You basically want to look for a complete rotten or crashed VVTi Supra, anything less will cause you a major headache as j_jza80 has already said. Also as mentioned above contact Swampy. What on earth you would want to ruin a rare car like a UK spec by unnecessarily fettling with it in this way is beyond me. Sell it to an enthusiast/collector that will appreciate the car for what it is, buy what you want and put some cash in the bank. There is no rhyme, reason or benefit to doing this unless of course you like wasting time & money.

Can't imagine it would have a positive affect on the value of the UK car either. You would be better off selling the UK spec and picking up a J-spec VVTI if that is what you want. Depending on the condition of the UK spec you might even be able to put a little in the bank

How did you disguise the Green colour?