Harllequin

Any update on your solicitors intervention girlracer1970?

To my mind it will depend on the setup of your car. Have you checked against these threads for what your car is to what is the recomended plug? http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=41927

Really!! Oh bugger I'll have to watch out for that then. Your the first person I've heard thats had problems with it. I've known it react at the edges of the Barcoat, but never on it

Congrats on the clear coat. Welcome to the world of paint reacting. At least it was just on the dash If that first skin of dry top coat if damaged in any way it can be a real bugger. One sure fire way of this not happening is to sand them flat again and take off all the paint you applied. Bugger of a job but you will not get a reaction and you can start again. The other method is to sand it flat leaving all your old paint on, coat it with "Barcoat" then start from scratch. I have had to do this a few times on things that have gone bad. Normally after following other peoples previous spray attempts. Hope all goes well for the dash though

I'd try the fuel filter first. It may be blocked. Next try the fuel pressure at each part of the fuel line you can gain access too. If there is a distinct drop in pressure at any point that may indicate a blockage in the line. After that it get to the more expensive tests of changing stuff. At least the first 2 are inexpensive though Hope that helps Darren

If the clear has not been done in an oven you might want to be vary wary of the thinners in the coat you apply reacting with the coat on the car. If you break its "skin" while sanding, this will be a sure thing and nasty things may well happen. Any time I've had to leave a job till the AM I've just blown the area off with the air line, then applied a "wet coat" to key into the already very soft area, then dusted a few more coats on top. Have to make sure it has flashed very well though. Another thing to take into account any sanding that you do to a clear coat will show through under the layers you apply next. Either way, be very wary of thinners reacting with the paint you have on the car already. Good luck m8.

Looked again tonight and it still just looks the same. I'll still do the rest, just when I feel like it

aahh, Can anyone please verify the correct size please?

Ok I did the front wings and the bonnet to see what it would be like. I wont be nocking myself out to do the rest of the car just yet. As you can see there was very little difference between the front wing that I spent the time on the the door that I just polished and waxed. I will likely do the rest of the car, but just a pannel at a time before a wash I think. Darn those silver cars!!

Ok guys need a bit of advice please. I've done my car BPU as you all know. Thing is its boosting past 1.2bar going to around 1.4 to 1.5 bar. The resistor ring I have fitted has an opening of 5.7cm. Can anyone give me a clue what size to reduce this in order to restrict my boost to around 1 to 1.1 bar. Thanks in advance folks Darren

haha poor man

I did a friends new Corsa at work by hand after he got some marks on his bonnet before his wife noticed the scratches Guess what he was doing before work that day the dirty boy!!! Took bloody ages and didnt come up that well. The marks were not that bad either. If you have the cash, get a good quality body shop machine. They are worth their weight in gold!!!

Congrats that car lol

Welcome!!

hay there and welcome. Nice looking car. You going to the Stadium of Light this Sunday kidda? If you are I'll see you there. Darren

MY GOD I've just had a brain wave!!! Thought The silver looks very bloody nice, your brain is just telling you its not good enough. Explination When you look at any car pre detail work it looks kind of milky. Silver / white cars look milky by the very nature of their colour. Therefore your brain is telling you its not as much of a difference. In actual fact looking at that link they look excellent. Oh bugger. Looks like I've got a lot of work this next week while I'm off.

It gets the regular polish then wax. But I'm not sure if the extra work with the claybar and a good going over with the G3 and the machine would be the way to go. I gave it a quick blast when I got the car, but hours of work for little reward dont seem to float my boat. Unless once done I will be proved wrong. Hence the question LOL

Hay there guys. I did Her Who Must Be Obayed's MX5 last week end. Very pleased with the result! I'm wondering if it would be worth doing the Supra also. My problem is that its grey and although it looks good when polished and waxed. In the time it takes to have a tin of beer and admire the work it has gone dull already (over exaggerated I know But wth) The MX5 being red looked awesome and well worth the extra work. Will the grey be transformed to the same degree. AKA Lots o work = lots of reward. Or just look the same as a normal polish. Are there some colours that are just not destined to look shiny? Or is it worth doing the work anyway. Cheers in advance for your experience. Darren

Yep I did see that too after looking a bit more. But 400 for a rear bit of prety = ouch still LOL I'll just have to make on myself

Ttt

Mine wouldnt tick over very well at all. Then you could not get it to go past 2k rpm while driving it.

Just re checked mine and Its at 4.3 volt. Runs fine now I re did the earth connection

Looking at the guides and what I've set mine too that seems about right. Are all of your connectiomns sound?

What age Sup do you have?

Went right away. No messing. Reset the ECU and not seen it since.