Soop Dogg

Dunno about the ins and outs of the technical bits mate, but if ou end up needing to replace the speedo dials, I have a set from an Auto that read up to 180.

I can recommend the opinion of Pete at TRL on this one. I had my Supe de-catted a couple of weeks ago and had a similar symptom. Changed the plugs on Pete's advice; problem solved...one happy Supra!!!

Hey Alex, try the passenger window lock out button. It seemd to work for that window fault you had for the last month or two!! :conf: Sorry, couldn't resist!!

Why would it raise the car? If you fit larger rims, you MUST fit lower profile tyres to try to keep the rolling radius of the tyres as close as possible to (or the same as) the original rolling radius. Otherwise the speedo goes way off the mark. If rolling radius doesn't change, then total diameter of your wheel/tyre package has to stay the same. So why does the height of the car change?

Anyone have any idea how to remove the Heater Matrix form the MKIV? Is it an absolute shed load of work to get to it?

Thanks Gaz. I just thought I'd ask as it seemed unusual to see the gearbox and pedal box for sale on the same day as Terry S. put a 6-speed manual ECU up for sale. I guess I should have expected the different prop shaft, but I wasn't aware that the diff and driveshafts were different too. I thought it might be do-able as I think I would be pushed to find another Supe in the condition mine is in at a price I can afford just now. (Recent house purchase!)

I've just asked this on the For Sale Section, but I thought I'd ask here too. I'm toying with the idea of converting my J-Spec Auto to a 6-Speed Manual. Exactly what are the parts I would need? So far I know I'd need the 'box, pedal box, ECU and a Clutch. Are there differences between the flywheels or Crankshaft ends etc? Any new info would be appreciated.

If anyone is looking for something to do for the next few mins, perhaps you could nip outside to the car with a multimeter and measure just what voltage you are seeing at the OX1 pin of the diagnostic terminal either in the engine bay or to the lower right side of your dashboard near the bonnet release lever. I need to know what this value is at idle when the engine has warmed up. Thanks in anticipation!!

Good old Dingles, new owners of our previously fairly friendly Toyota dealership. Looks like we're no longer welcome!

I usually get Angie to sit there with a big bottle of 7-UP, lightly shaken, and when I let off the throttle in town she undoes the cap a little....sounds as good as one of these things and is much cheaper! And with the added bonus that if we get thirsty.......shall I stop there? Perhaps I'll just get a real one some day

Right, got to the bottom of it.....I think! Had it analysed by Clive Atthowe in Norwich and the O2 Sensor isn't changing it's output (about 0.3V) no matter what you do with the throttle or put down its throat. Trouble is that our friendly local Toyota dealer says the uk and J-spec O2 sensors are different. Anyone know for sure? Mine has 3 wires coming out of it which go all the way to a plastic connector at the front of the engine. The other thing the Toyota Dealership said was that it would take about ten days to get one from Belgium!!(£121 + VAT) Any ideas, Anyone?

Yep, that's correct, probe up the exhaust pipe. I'll try what Martin suggested and bypass the VSV for the fuel pressure regulator. Just excuse me for being stupid though when I ask what a VSV is!! Let you know tomorrow how I get on.

Thanks for putting me right, i obviously misunderstood what I read and thought me box wasn't functioning correctly, which it obviously is. Well that presumably means the temp sensor is working. With regard to what Mycroft suspected, i.e. cold running when warm. When started from cold I get the usual increased idle speed which returns to the normal idle after a few minutes. If it thought it was still cold, surely the idle speed would stay high? The MOT emission figures are as follows: Fast Idle Test: CO 8.86% (Limit: 0.3%) HC 236ppm(Limit 200) Lambda 0.76(Limit 0.97-1.03) Second Fast Idle Test: CO 2.74% HC 103 (PASS!!!) Lambda (.92) Natural Idle Test: CO 1.77% :( :( :( :(

Quick update: No trouble codes in the ECU. No mod been preformed to fuel pump ECU. Fuel pump input voltage at idle: 8.6V....normal. Just something I came across while surfing for info, when you guys select 'manual' on your auto box, does your box select overdrive when on a light throttle at speed? The reason I ask is that apparently it should do so when warm. However, mine never gets into overdrive from 3rd no matter how warm it is. There is a protection system which stops it changing up into overdrive when cold. This temp input is from the coolant temp sensor. If mine has failed to cause it to stay in 3rd, could this also make the car run on 'cold' fuelling when warm? However, does this mean that the temp gauge uses a different coolant temp sensor as my gauge seems to act fine?

Thanks everyone for all the advice. I'm looking at error codes this morning. Can anyone give me locations for the O2 sensor and the fuel pressure regulator.(Don't have a workshop manual) Also, if anyone knows what resistance I should see across the O2 sensor I would appreciate that too. (Am I just being a pain in the a*se now?) Cheers, Brian.

I was thinking of just taking the air filter out just for the MOT to help drop the figure a bit. But look at how rich it seems to be running, nearly 30 times the LIMIT. And there lies my problem, it isn't just running at 30 times normal mixture, but 30 times the limit!! I'd like to borrow an ECU for an hour and have the emissions checked before I spent £X000 on a replacement ECU. If a sensor was up the wall, wouldn't the ECU pick up the fact that there was a problem because all the other inputs were showing that the engine is at idle and the throttle is closed yet we're pumping in shedloads of fuel? It just seems very strange to me that no warning is being given of a problem and the system is putting in this amount of fuel. I think it would be unusual for the ECU to have become corrupted rather than breaking down in some way either causing it to stop functioning completely or to at least flag up a problem. I'll be checking out this 12V mod tomorrow morning as that sounds feasible. Any other thoughts will b egreatly appreciated. Mr Betts, are you about? Are there any checks I can get done?

Thanks Alex. By the way, you don't happen to have a spare ECU kicking around, do you?

Cheers, Ash. Re the 12V Fuel Pump thing, do you have a link to that?

Just took my car for MOT. Everything was going swimmingly until the last bit....emissions. It seems it is being massively over-fuelled. The CO levels were over 8% where they should be under 0.3%!!!:o :o :o Everything else was fine, but what can I do about this? Can the ECU be adjusted by Toyota to rectify this or could it be a different problem? Are the NA and TT ECU's very different? (As I suspect they would be) Would an aftermarket ECU be a better idea? Someone pleeeaaasseee help.....I'm in a panic now and want some good news!!!

If you want to make this purchase early, I got a very clean (and very standard) Auto Aero-top for sale right now!! See my wife's profile pictures. (Angie Holkham, member No.113)

Phil, any chance you can send me a copy of these files. I know I should have asked you for these ages ago, but haven't had much time. Also, is Graham's .exe ready yet? I fancy trying that out too. Thanks in anticipation.

And that's it? Don't know if I could manage that!!

C'mon, Supe, don't have a go at Mycroft. He's being hit with question after Question here and he's tyring to answer them. He's put more info on fuel on this site than I've seen before and this has got to be useful to us all. If he's having to repeat himself a few times to get a point across, he obviously will add a little more emphasis on the points we've missed. If we have a go at him, he'll leave the site, and I for one want people with knowledge to stay here to help us. By the way, Mycroft, what about the use of LRP?

I have a Total station at the top of my road, but they don't do SUL. Are you saying that their regular UL is OK? Is there a reason I shouldn't use lead free 4*? After all, it doesn't have any lead in it.

Thanks Andy, I think I'll give that a go myself...if it goes wrong, I can always put them on Angies car!!!