supramemole

Thanks everyone...and I pmed back everyone that was interested.... Chris

Thanks everyone...and I pmed back everyone that was interested.... Chris

ok everyone has been pmed that contacted me. thanks again guys!! Chris

i used a two part epoxy myself... and ive also used 3M double sided tape, the thinner kind because it is a perfect fit against the bumper, and its been almost two years and havent had one fall off yet. Let me know what you used... thanks again Chris

sorry guys have been extremely busy with everything the last few months... but yes i have them still. shoot me a PM and let me know. thanks again and sorry Chris

DAMN!!! these are my dream wheels!!!!! wish shipping to the USA wasnt more than the rims.... great price as well. Good luck with the sale... Chris

well i got the switch figured out.. and everything works perfect...still would like to figure out the alarm and folding the mirrors when its armed... not sure if anyone else needs the info but i can post it up here for a helping hand. thanks again Chris

thats exactly what i want to do with mine. please let me know when u sort out the wiring.. i have the motors out the casings and ready to put in mine so i dont have to paint the housings... again thanks for any info u have... and also if u can let me know the color wires out of the switch. thanks again chris

hey all. I fit US spec front TT calipers rotors and pads on my NA Jspec. I only had to trim the dust shield...my question for everyone here is what is the cost difference on them, meaning the LS brake setup VS the US or UK spec??? I know i bought brand new US spec TT front calipers, rotors and pads for 550 USD. which isnt very much considering. maybe i should start selling these to you guys overseas...LOL... Chris

pm sent Chris

Hey there everyone... well I just got in my power folding mirrors and removed everything from the casing and figured out the wiring on the mirror side.. the problem now is figureing out the wiring on the switch side. I have looked threw a lot of forums(here and the aussi one) and came up short for a diagram telling me what those 4 wires go to on the back of the switch. The colors that I have are White/black Orange Blue/red Grey So if ANYONE out there has maybe done this conversion I sure could use a little help with that wiring. I know that two wires have to go to the fold action of the mirrors and the other two maybe power and ground??? Either way just looking for a little guidence. Thanks again everyone. Chris

well i have never been the type of person not to do something because of the time and effort involved... so Ill let ya know how it goes..LOL... maybe i write up.. Chris

Hey everyone. Was wondering if anybody out there has updated their preface lift dash trims and cluster with the facelift or S2 panels and cluster. I have the 1993 NA/Auto and want to upgrade the trim pieces and cluster with the facelift one and was wondering if I have to change out all the wiring. Under dash or if the harness will plug right into the S2 cluster? Thanks again for any help out there. Chris

this is is awsome... i like that alot.. well out to the garage with those pics..LOL... Chris

Looks great... i have never noticed that spoiler line before... its actually pretty cool!!! not to get off topic.. but if you decide to sell those rear bumper surrounds off that stock bumper, since you are going with the trial rear.. i would love to buy those from ya.. if your selling them that is...LOL.. let me know Chris

thanks a bunch. these are a set i bought you guys here. My original panles in the car are all painted black.. same process as about but no cf and added primer to the list..LOL.. thanks again.. I know things arent great for the world right now.. but im going to try to talk to the poeple i get my cf and resin from and see if they can drop the price per yard.. i know anything can help out right? thanks again Chris

this is the process... remove all the gumming black stuff off the pieces. then sand the pieces down with 180 grit sandpaper. it gives the resins and CF something to adhere to. then paint the pieces black. lay the carbon fiber over the pieces...make sure its over the edges about 3 inchs...to help lay over them and not peel back up. one coat of resin... let dry... second coat of resin... let dry, cut trim anything that needs to be made.. holes stuff like that. now put another coat of resin to smooth out the areas where you cut..to fill in the gap around the egdes so the material is flush. after that.. i sand down the entire piece, to smooth out any resin deformatities.., meaning the weave of the cf will show threw the resin somewhat, without sanding it smooth once you clear it will have little humps where the weaves are, if that make sense. then clear the piece 3 times with a high solids clear, very thick, one coat of this equals 2 coats of basic clear. meaning MIL thickness.. to give you an idea on mil thickness, in case some poeple arent sure about it where as some do know about it.. the cigrette clear plastic paper around a pack or smokes is about 1 MIL thick. a paint job has anywhere from 7 to 12 mils total. not very much protection for our wonderful cars but thats about where its at..some more some less...well one coat of the basic clear is about 3 mils thick, thats why you would put two coats of clear on a panel after base giving you the desired mil thickness you want. this clear or a high solids clear your running one coat of clear equals two coats of basic standard clear... thus instead of 3 mils per coat your at 6 mils per.. thus is you have seen a car cleared with a high solids clear you will notice that there is ALOT of depth and very deep in color, and its easy to get out scratches or whatever because you have that extra mils of clear you can wetsand into and buff. well after all is sanded i clear these pieces with 3 coats of the high solids clear.. giving it that deep look.. and alot of depth that really brings out the CF weave. high solids clear equals more money per gallon.. basic clear runs about 80 bucks for a gallon kit. ( at least over here) where as the High solids clear runs just under 400 a gallon kit... i hope that better explains the process of how i do it and some of the cost involved. thanks again Chris

thats how i feel.. I plan on keeping my supra for a very very long time. here is hard to come by and we just cant import them. Also im not a big operation meaning i do this in the garage on nights and weekends..mainly weekends because of my day job.. with that being said i dont buy the CF in bulk... i mean i have bought 30 yards at a time...i am actually working on an entire interior for a friends car, he shows it very WILD, not a supra, but even 30 yards isnt considered bulk, if i were to buy 100 plus yards the pricing for the that would be alot cheaper.. thus passing on the savings. i can pm the mods and maybe offer a group buy thing... but it would have to be 10 or more to get the better pricing from where i buy my CF from. maybe that would be better option...ill look into that and pm Homer and ask him. Im all about helping the supra family out here and over the pond. I know i cant afford "buying" already made parts and understand the difficulties of paying for nice items. Im there myself, thats why i try to offer good pricing on the few items i make. i guess i will look into the minium amounts i can buy to get a better rate and thus saving everyone money in the long run. I am by far not trying to "rip" anyone off or try to make a million dollars doing this sort of work, i have a regular day job for that...lol.. I really enjoy making something and sharing it and its nice to know there are some parts out there accross the world that i have made in my little garage and not some big company pumping out inferior products that dont fit or look pretty crappy. I ll keep this thread updated if i can work something out with the material costs..meaning bulk rates..Ill call tomorrow and see whats up and ill PM Homer ti see about a group buy if possable. again thanks for the support and just letting everyone know I will be working on the cost thing. I would love to offer this for 300ish, there is alot of value at the 500 price but 300ish would bebetter...[COOL][/COOL] that will be the number i will shoot for.. again ill keep everyone updated. thanks again Chris

thanks again.. just take your time when you do this and it will look great!! Chris

i understand... these pieces are really time consuming. the other pieces i make its molds.. i lay the cf into it..do a quick trim around the egdes.. so you basically paying for the material used... these however takes some time to trim everything and make the fitment right. chris

thanks again. its not like bondo and some primer.. you only have one chance at it and if its off a tad bit the piece is ruined and you have to peel it off and start over again. I have gone threw SOOOO much material just making little things here and there. something that looks easy enough really isnt...LOL... but anywho. thanks again Chris

again just offering the service.. Chris

the CF goes to the edges.. meaning no gaps... its a high luster, 3 coats of clear, which mean if you scratch it you can acutally be wetsanded and buffed out. and the most important thing, to me anyways, is that it will not peel off OR delaminate or turn yellow. meaning you wont have to pull these off and repaint the dash pieces in a couple years... i know its a big problem in Florida with the sun and heat. ans also everyone runs the stick on type.. this would be more unique. Chris

Im an authorized hobbyist, i have already talked to mods about this. thanks again Chris

in person they look amazing, im not a big fan of the overlays on the dash pieces, but i really love how these came out... either way thats ok... its not for everyone...i was just offering it for poeple that might want it. I know on that famous auction site the sticker kits are running around 200 and they peel and turn yellowish after time, and saw another one offering the same service for 1000 plus, this will never peel and turn yellow or delaminate after time... but thanks again Chris Chris