kaahari

Could be: 1. Rubber grommet around light bulb is leaking (loose,broken, cut etc) 2. Wrong size bulb: o-ring not seal to bulb housing 3. Housing "breather" loose, broken, cut, wrong direction etc 4. Housings are opened (painted etc) and not properly sealed Just a quick thought: since housing (when bulbs in place) should be quite sealed construction exept breather, i would try with air compressor ([low pressure) to put air in from breather and check where it leaks. If steam inside, water is getting in from somewhere

Looks like oem facelift wheels There was change of wheels with facelift, center is different, just google

http://www.jack-frost.co.uk/toyota_supra_air_con.html Do the control of all other functions modes etc (beside ac) other work as they should? Meaning if you adjust temp/flow or modes like up, footwell etc it works? Or just the "ac button" when pressed, cold air not flowing? First, do that diagnose... symptom could be there easily found. If not, mkiv service manual covers ac system very detail... (mechanical & electrical side)

Source: mkv forum A good race debut for the supra! It didn´t explode in flames. The objective was clearly to gather data and continue the car development, not pace or points. That is evident with the driver lineup, not a single professional race driver there: - Morizo: It´s actually Akio Toyoda, the CEO of Toyota. So cool to have him racing the Supra, he actually put down the cars fastest laptime. Pressure on the development team for sure! - Herwig Daenens: Member of the Vehicle Testing Division of Toyota Motor Europe NV/SA - Hisashi Yabuki: Member of the Advanced Technical Skills Institute at Toyota Motor Corporation Regarding performance, very hard to read with traffic, non-pro drivers, and full track configuration. Best lap time (Nurburgring "GP" circuit + Nordschleife) 9:25.555 This is what we expected. The GP track usually adds a bit more than 2 minutes to the nordschleife laptime.

Testing layouts

I think there is very good amount of options for stand alone ecus

I was really interested about Defi dsdf until the specs came and the screen is very small Did this instead for a test how it would suit to Supra. Screen is standard android 7" tablet, connected to Defi advance unit via smart adapter. I'm using only advance unit sensors (non obd), since my car in pre vvti... (obd is laggy on this). I used old lhd cluster panel for "base" and top panel is made from polycarbonate... kind of prototype, would like to make this better if it turns to be good. On the software side, only running automation prog to run software when car ignition is on. I used this a few weeks before winter to check that on software side everything works... and then started to implement warning lights, case and harness. Warning lights etc are standard toyota/lexus and "base" for those is from old jdm cluster so bulbs are replaceable. Harness uses plugs from old jdm cluster so unit is plug&play to cars oem lhd dash harness. Just liked to share my progress on this Prototype Testing... Cluster test on car Also modded Defi software to more modern look with LFA & Lexus inspired background & needle. In live, screen and graphics are very sharp, very hard to take good pics on this due screen brightness.

Have you tried run hvac unit diagnostics? http://www.jack-frost.co.uk/toyota_supra_air_con.html According service manual (electrical) -The motor is connected to blower motor relay box. -Blower motor relay box gets signal from ac amplifier, what speed is needed. -Ac amplifier gets signal from dash unit if not on "auto" mode If motor itself works the broblem is between 1. Dash unit vs ac amplifier 2. Ac amplifier vs blower motor relay box 3. Blower motor relay box I would start by reading those codes... if nothing, then by measuring, with voltage meter, that blower control box gets current to control signal input wire. Also, trying with other working ac amplifier / dash unit could lead to symptom...

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Seats are reclining version of Recaro Trendline/Sportline, alcantara sides and fabric on the middle. Mounted on very low rails because seat base is quite high (higher than, for example on recaro speeds). pic:

My dash below. Just refurbished oem panels and updated gauges. I suggest that dont go too "radical" with colours, black / grey / gunmetal panels suits nice to stock dash...unless car is a show car.

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If using 3m (dinoc etc), remove oem rubber from surface and i suggest that you use 3m spesific vinyl "glue" on panels under wrap. On my car, after summer, vinyl started to bubble, badly from edges / bends due heat. That glue should help with that. Panels gets really hot inside parked car on sunny days!

Wow, awesome job with that interior. Looks way better than "diy" covered oem seats

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What seat rails you used to fit recaros? I assume those are trendlines etc. Asking, because i got same seats with recaro rails, used to have those with old Speeds. Now bolt pattern is different and i had to fit "raise bars" = seats are bit higher

Just normal cleaner spray (to clean electrical components) to make sure that there is no oxidacion (dont know right word for it ) And with ring, mean that timing plate/ring in crankshaft, under crankshaft pulleys. I dont know if the broblem was that timing sensor didnt read correctly the crankshaft timing or broblem was in connector. Looks like this (some differences between gte / vvti, but similiar...). Actual sensor is on left side. http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/2jzcrank11.jpg http://how2diyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/2jzcrank2.jpg But, as CW says, check TPS also.

I had quite same issue many years ago. I plugged out crank position sensor & igniter(?, that black box) + cleaned those connectors properly. Newer had this broblem since. so, if you have checked ignitor, check crank position sensor & connector + make sure that timing "ring" is ok.

I`ve read from supraforums.com many years ago that "V160 oil" is just normal dextron2 ATF oil, made by shell, if remember correctly. Toyota just branded it to "toyota V160" gearbox oil and sold it with good profit over the years I`ve used castrol transmax Z many years now, like some Finnish supra owners, with no broblems. Believe who wants

Old pic when i had do-luck bumper http://www.dvdplaza.fi/galleria/data/1034/medium/etu_yla.jpg

Nice! Waiting for pictures with panels installed

Connector E9 Pin 62 http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?35919-ECU-Pinouts

Measure from map wire near ecu that ecu gets map voltage right. Should be constant when ignition on (atmospheric) and alter when engine running

3rd line jspec: fuel vapor "box" vacuum line. That black can near firewall. Remove?& block Notice that theres vacuum lines on other side of manifold also, more fuel vspor system pipes and vacuum line to power steering etc if i remember correctly. Check those also Broblem is identical when my map sensor didnt get vacuum. Have you used supra wiring harness? Are you absolute sure map signal goes to right pins on ecu? My friend had mixed two sensors when making engine conversion, no error codes because ecu got voltage...