Chingy

Can not speak highly enough of the craftsmanship at SRD Keep telling myself it’s an investment Thanks Luc, I see yours is coming along very nicely

Bump

Few pics of SRD’s in-house blue print custom engine build

Hi Buddy, bought a RPS Triple Carbon that we will be fitting once the engine is back together.

HKS LA Twin Plate Clutch Kit As you can see from the pictures good as new, benefitting from being supplied complete and with brand new unused discs. In 2016 a new unused Toyota boxed V161 was sourced and this clutch was installed to go along with it. The car has done little work recently, in 2018 the car saw less than 300 miles. Great clutch. https://www.srdtuning.com/product/hks-la-clutch-twin-jza80-2jz-gte/ £SOLD

Thanks mate should be nice once it’s all finished up. Not sure buddy but if it is you’ve got a great clutch there, fitted to a brand new V161, only a couple of years old and I have done less than 300 miles on it for one of those years. With the new plates as well it will be as new. Brilliantly over engineered great engines.

Much appreciated, I am really fond of it and hopefully the build will match it’s legacy. Yes that correct, using the HKS 87mm pistons same as those used in the 3.4 stroker, although mine are the earlier non vvti flat top HKS ones which have a higher compression. The replacement vvti compatible ones I believe are part number 21003-AT002. The 272 are I believe 9.3 lift both In/Ex

Thanks buddy. Your engine bay looked awesome when I saw it at SRD and again at Atlantic and definitely.... we will have to go for a little spirited drive, although might need a couple of TD06’s to hang with the you

Quick update, not much to report over the festive period, few parts arriving (the RPS triple plate carbon clutch is here as well but weighed a ton so left it in the box on the floor ) Block has been decked and cross hatched Heat shields back from the body shop after being machine polished and Gtechniq coated Engine bay next to be detailed whilst the engine is at SRD

Thanks Luc, I was over SRD last week and your engine is looking mighty clean, can’t wait to see how it performs with the new head set up. It’s going to be an awesome weapon Cant beat a bit of bling Thanks buddy.......another true credit to SRD. Looking forward to the next update

Great build, looking forward to seeing this all finished

Thanks buddy

Whilst the engine is stripped apart I thought I would take adavantage of the loose parts and have them polished. Sorry only the after pics and forgot to take the before ones

Yeah when I looked online whilst doing my research they appear as a set but when I spoke to Carrillo direct they seem to believe they can sell everything separate as service items so hopefully they can just supply Lee the bolts. (If it helps I was going to offer my old rods forsale as spares/repairs for just like a couple hundred if they could be of use to anyone. After being taken out we inspected them and Rod 1 showed signs of wear on the bearing, 2,3,4,5 great condition and 6 the bearing had failed. They all have CARR bolts, if using the rods as a used set you would probably want to replace Rod 6, ideally 1 as well for a road car unless they where going in a race/drift car then probably as they are, PM me if helps and I will do a sale thread alternatively they will make awesome paper weights) Sounds like a nice spec love a T51

It’s not really the issue of after market or stock but more the type of pulley you run and what RPM you intend to run the engine at. You should run a Dampened pulley as Mikeekim89 said this is to reduce vibrations travelling through the crank and causing damage to the engine...crank, bearings, seals etc.. The stock Pulley is a Dampened Pulley and you can get after market pulleys that are also Dampened such as ATI/Titan which dampen using rubber like bushes and can be serviced however the V1 needs a larger belt and machining to fit your crank. Or the Fluidampr one which doesn’t use rubber bushes but is a one piece dampener. The difference over stock is that people running big horse power at higher than stock RPM have reported that the stock pulley can separate, so rather than leave the question they fit an aftermarket pulley as mentioned above. Now you do have a aftermarket pulley but being solid metal this will not dampen so put a Dampened pulley stock/aftermarket on your wish list. Hope that helps and welcome to Supra ownership

Lee ordered the new Carrillo rods and bolts as a set for me however I believe he is able to order the Carrillo bolts CARR or WMC on their own. How’s the refresh going? What rods are you running? Shells I have gone for Mahle - Clevite bearings their P - Series

Good group on FB this, look forward to seeing the Supra times come up

subscribed

Rods Now I can't stress how valuable it has been having your chosen garage as your engine builder, mechanic and parts stockist all as one when it comes to choses like this. SRD, all under one roof being able to give advise but also going above and beyond. That with stocking several different Rods allowing you to physically compare and inspect these side by side. In this day and age when everything is ordered on the net mostly from abroad this kind of service then choosing a part I find superb. So splitting the bottom end out after being built some 20 yrs ago we have decided to put a fresh set of rods in her. With no intention to go back inside the depths of the block for another 20yrs I wanted to give this some serious thought and upgrade the Rods where possible albeit I was already running Carrillos.... (it's going to be named the Wangan 2.0 so no point in doing half a job!) So I initially reviewed the Brian Crower Heavy Duty Rods with the ARP 625+ bolts/fasteners. These are rated to 300bhp + per a cylinder. The rods are 642g and the 625+bolts rated to 280KSI as an upgrade to the ARP2000 bolts also available. Compared next to the Carrillos (right) these are very nice rods but just didn't feel or have the finish of the Carrillos, also weighed a noticeable amount more? BC put back in the shelf. So my next thought was... a new set of Carrillos (top) or a set of the latest Carrillo HD's Rods.(bottom) The HD in many places appears to be a bit thicker and more robust....(as the name suggests.) with addition material they weigh 606g, 6g more than the standard Carrillos but don't feel real heavy like the BC's, also note the different positioning for the oil feed between the two Carrillo rods. Carrillo also offer two types of bolts CARR bolts being there top of the range rated at 285KSI and WMC bolts rated at 220KSI. Both more than adequate for a street car, the WMC are "good for about 15 to 18 torque cycles" and the CARR are "good for for indefinite torquings" 15-18 torque cycles sounds like a lifetime for a non race build that won't be torn down often but I could certainly see a race team exceeding that. :confused:So after lots of research and back and forth between the two different Carrillo rods and bolts I ended up finding the answer in a more simple way.... Firstly the CARR bolt is arguably the best bolt made! TICK, Then in the long run with everything else I was going to be using part wise, why not eliminate a question mark? .....Simply fit the most over engineered. Carrillo HD's + CARR bolts ordered! Now I would imagine most after market Rods are capable of handling above and beyond what we would run so I am not trashing other makes or designs. I enjoyed my research and for this particular build my now personal choice. I hope this helps anyone who may not be able to compare 3 different rods side by side.

Very cool

Great clutch for the track the ORC, on or off but hard to live with on the road with virtually no slip lol......

Mine is converted to mph, was never good at quick math when driving hard

Bought one last week from SRD to replace my HKS LA.... got a free RPS t-shirt as well:d I had a triple plate ORC clutch in the do-luck when I owned it which was a right handful, drove a car recently with the newer version of the RPS Triple and I couldn't believe how like stock it was.

Thanks The internals are in very good condition which is a credit to the original engine builder and the components used some 20 years ago. The car always had good oil pressure and never smoked. The bores where in excellent condition with the original cross hatching in them and the skirts of the pistons where nice. The bearing did show signs of aging, the engine was built with the factory OEM bearings which are softer than that of modern aftermarket ones. Rod bearings 2,3,4&5 where all in very good condition, Rod 1 had worn and 6 had failed. The main cap bearings also had signs of wear. However considering the engine had always ran in excess of 800/900bhp the majority of its life 20 some years and that Steve had done several dragon balls and some long trips abroad the engine was very healthy. Needless to say that these will all be replaced with modern bearings from Titan and SRD have sourced me a low milliage crank from a stock car so it will be a above and beyond build done the right way:thumbs:

Thanks James, hopefully the rebuild will perform well and keep the car strong for another 20 years! The turbo set up is quite unique and I would imagine something quite special back when it was built in 98/99 using 2x TD05s and a single wastegate! However compared to today's modern singles it is very much overshadowed in the way of performance, technology and cost. The trouble with big twins on a 2jz is there twice is much heat, twice as much to work on and twice the cost but there is something majestic about the old girls and they can hold there own. SRD are looking into reproducing the manifold in a more modern material as I didn't want to change it as simply it works well. The turbos had new internals back in 2015 but are currently Max'd at 97% duty... we might explore upgrades depending on what can be achieved with the manifold or a change of direction completely