simbasupra
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Everything posted by simbasupra
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Hi guys Currently rebuilding my engine. Got round to looking at the cylinder head, removed the valves and have noticed there are no valve spring seats installed! Would there be any reason someone would not reinstall these? uprated springs? If not, how would this have effected things? Thanks
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Thanks:thumbs:
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Hi guys Would a standard alternator be ok for adding twin fans? Or would I need an uprated one? Thanks
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Cheers, I carried on looking and found these: http://www.rotagriponline.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&product_id=10138&flypage=shop.flypage&pop=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=29 hopefully they will do the job.
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Hi guys Just wondering if anyone knows of any cheapish tools or methods to measure the internal diameter of valve guides? I have seen some small hole bore gauges but they only go down to 8mm, whereas the supra guides are approx. 6mm. Thanks
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All done with the stuff from halfords
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Thanks for all your help. I will give it a try.
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Cheers, popped down to halfords and all they had was this, do you think it would be ok? http://www.granvilleoil.com/product_info.php?prod_id=151
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Thanks again. I can only find them online and not in a shop, so I will have to order one in. Unless anyone knows a store that stocks something suitable.
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Cheers. Had a look for loxeal 58.11 on the Internet however cant find anywhere that sells it. Anyone know of any other alternatives?
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Researching a bit more it seems most people use a sealant. I have got some Toyota seal packing black (silicone liquid gasket) to reseal the sumps etc. Would this be ok for the core plugs too?
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My block is back from being rebored, has been masked up and sprayed satin black. Im now going to start the rebuild. Ive got a full set of Toyota core plugs however would like to know the best way of fitting them. After reading a few things on the Internet im still unsure. Should I use sealant? If so what sort? Is it best to use a socket and hammer to tap them in? If so should the socket fit on the lip or inside the lip? How far should they be tapped in? Sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure its done right. Cheers.
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Oem, acl or clevite crank and conrod bearings and thrust washers
simbasupra replied to simbasupra's topic in mkiv Technical
I went for ACL in the end, didn't realise they had folded though. -
Only just seen your reply. I decided I couldn't go wrong with getting arp bolts all round.
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After a bit of clarification on replacing crank, conrod and thrust washers. From what I can tell from other posts acl and clevites are better quality than oem. However oem has lots of options in thicknesses to get clearances spot on. Would you guys fit new stock, acl or clevite bearings and thrust washers?
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Hi guys In the process of buying parts for an engine rebuild. It will only ever be BPU power level. I'm going to get 86.5mm wiseco pistons, but keep the stock rods. I have been told this would be fine? The Toyota manual says the conrod, main and head bolts are reusable if not stretched to far. Would you guys reuse all of the above if within spec buy new all of the above reuse some of the above Also would you get oem or arp? Thanks
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Just got off the phone to the engineering company who have quoted me £42 per bore. So total of £252 to rebore all cylinders. Is this price the going rate? I am going to ring other engineering companies tomorrow.
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Shropshire is a bit far, plus I was just unsure of rebuilding and engine after a rebore, so the advise from chris was very helpful.
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That makes sense now. Just found the info on the wiseco website. Thanks for your help:thumbs:
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Thanks Is piston ring filing by hand just a case of pushing the rings down the cylinder evenly with a piston, measuring with a feeler gauge, removing, filing, then checking? Do oversized pistons come with instructions stating what the piston ring gaps should be? Also could I reuse the stock conrods with oversized pistons. Sorry for all the questions, I just like to know exactly what has to be done, as never rebuilt a bored engine before.
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Cheers Chris So best option would be to rebore to 86.5mm, cross hatch hone, hot wash, then fit oversized pistons and rings. Could you recommended any good value oversized pistons? Also what is the best method of getting the surface properly cleaned up?
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Has only ever had standard air filter as far as im aware. The cylinders have worn evenly and not tapered/oval. The reason I took it apart was slight lack of power and low compression on cylinder 4. Out of interest how come you would rebore and fit oversized pistons instead of making up the gap with different piston rings?
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They didn't say if it was consistant across all cylinders. However before I sent them the block I measured them and got 86.03 across all cylinders. I sent it to them as I wasn't sure on the accuracy of my gauge and they are the experts. So I assume they got 86.05 across all cylinders. Do you think it would be worth taking it to another engineering company for a third opinion? I didnt realise I could make up the gap with piston rings. I thought I would have to rebore and use bigger pistons.
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Hi guys Just had an engineering company measure my cylinder bores. They have said the cylinders are worn 2 thou over 86mm. I have converted this on google to 0.05mm. Is this correct? That would make my cylinder bores 86.05mm. The manual says to replace the block if over 86.02mm. Is this amount of wear normal for a 100,000 mile cylinder block.
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Is that gunk stuff OK to use internally on the block, head and sumps? Or is it for the outside only?
