tomgeer

Also as above, try disconnecting the battery for 10 mins or so to reset the ECU if you haven’t already done so.

Couldn’t be something as simple as an ABS sensor faulty could it?

Thread resurrection after over a decade. Just thought I would add to the list of solutions given in this thread for no boost on the second turbo. I’ve found this particular thread really useful for diagnosing and ruling out everything else. The car had been off the road for many years until recently but it has always ran at BPU level 1.2 bar for pretty much all my ownership. My car randomly lost boost last year whilst driving, there was no drama, no noise, no smoke or anything. First turbo came online but at 4000 Revs it dumped all boost. I went through everything suggested on this thread and discovered a few minor issues with my sequential system fixing them along the way. Turns out my major issue was the turbine wheel on the second turbo had sheared clean off. There was no debris so must have shot straight out the exhaust, it was literally the last thing possible that could have been the problem but should be sorted now after fitting a pair of hybrids from Whifbitz. I’ve learnt a lot from doing this work myself, and thanks to anyone that has helped with advice along the way. Ive attached a couple of photos of what I found and what the stock turbos should look like with a turbine wheel attached for reference. Maybe this post will help someone else in the future, it’s probably the worst case scenario but just shows it can happen without any symptoms or warning.

That’s some list of spares can you pm me the pice of the good facelift ecu and the auto gearbox? thanks tom

Looks like a mirror

I will take these please.

Just spent an hour or so catching up on these current supra projects. Great work

Good luck with the project! I still love those M5 tuner wheels, I bet they weren’t cheap to source

Brilliant work, incredible stuff

Great work, keep it up lads

Paint looks brilliant it’s all coming on nicely

Can I take the pressure canister and vsv please? do you have any of the other vsv’s?

Thanks Rob, mine looks identical to that pipe but the angles aren’t quite tight enough, I will see what I can do, maybe even a slightly longer silicone sleeve from the hole in the wing will make a difference

Does anyone know of an easy solution for an intercooler hard pipe or flexi hose that clears the stock airbox housing? It’s a greddy intercooler if that makes a difference? The hard pipe that came with the intercooler kit fouls the airbox. I can probably fabricate one but would rather buy off the shelf if possible. cheers Tom

I will PM you an offer

£2000 if the panels are being fabricated for that price sounds pretty reasonable, as a (former) welder fabricator that is a lot of work. worth doing right though to rescue another supra

Sold

I’m not mate, the car still isn’t finished but getting closer. I will PM you my payment details are you ok to do bank transfer or PayPal? cheers tom

I removed these from my front end when doing the front subframe and control arm bush refurb. I bought all new bolts as I didn’t expect these to come out in one piece, but all four came out no problem. I’ve shotblasted and galvo sprayed these so they are pretty much as good as new, comes with all the nuts and washers. The Toyota part numbers are: 48190-14040 x2 bolts 48190-24020 x2 bolts 48198-24010 x4 cam washers plus the nuts and washers. A bargain at £30 plus postage.

Can you borrow an igniter from someone? They are known to cause issues sometimes.

The restrictor rings aren’t an exact science, they will vary a bit from car to car, as scooter says the electronic boost controller can’t turn down boost, only up it from the restrictor rings boost level, so you are on the right track upping the boost from the controller. make sure the car has no misfires through the rev range, mine was missing still after I sorted the coil pack issue because the plugs were fouled up. Quick clean up and it was back to full boost and no problems.

Mine was coil pack connectors and brittle clips for the wiring to the coil packs.

I had similar sporadic boost issues when I took my car out of storage after servicing it. I would be looking at the coil packs, coil pack clips and connectors and the wiring, after that check the FCD settings and wiring to it. Check the spark plugs, if they are wet and sooted up they will need cleaning up too. My issue turned out to be the coil pack connectors and I replaced all the coil packs with a set from Whifbitz which are good value for money.

I didn’t really I’m afraid, once I start working I get carried away and keep going until it’s done or I’m told to get in the house by my wife . I just removed the hard lines whilst the rear subframe was off the car and used them as a template to bend the new pipes into shape. I reused the original rubber lines as there was nothing wrong with them (I think they are Teflon lined or something so sure they will be fine and worse case scenario an easy replacement at a later date. I attached a photo of one of the brake lines being made up as an example, just tape it together as you go so it keeps its shape. To be honest the original pipes weren’t in bad order but it would be daft to not replace them whilst access was easy. if anyone is thinking of doing this themselves it’s straight forward enough. Buy a brake flaring kit and a little cheap pipe bender from Amazon and a few brake pipe fittings about £50 in total. Most of the bends can be formed by hand but you need a bender for the tighter ones to avoid kinks in the pipe. The brake pipe sizes are 3/16 and the fuel lines are 5/16, the brake pipe cost £22+vat and the kunifer fuel lines cost £64+vat…. You need two packs of the 5/16 line. You will NOT be able to do this without at least dropping the subframe substantially to gain access, it’s much easier with the subframe off completely. the most difficult part is putting all the little pipe clips and undercarriage trim back on at the end, this was fiddly.

I haven’t driven it yet so can’t comment, the car needs to go for geo set up and haven’t booked it in yet, I am intending to do the front end next and have all the bushes and parts to do that. I am told the Superpro bushes are very good and NVH is minimal, I was also recommended to fit OEM diff mount bushes as solid or poly bushes are the worst culprit for NVH. I would be disappointed if it isn’t a noticeable improvement over the stock 1996 rubber bushes