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Everything posted by ADL Mark
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Does look well fitted. Never seen one fitted to a mkiv before, very strange!
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Ah, I see what you mean now. And no, that's not why a redline is raised and I very much doubt something that a tuner thinks of when mapping the car. They are more interested in getting the most out of the engine. The driver then has the job of making the most of the gearbox unless you're flush enough to be able to put custom ratios in. To be honest, in something turbocharged and for normal use it's not really going to be an issue. If you were racing competitively then yes, you might want to change the gear ratios.
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This I'm guessing? - http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/toyota-supra-spoiler_W0QQitemZ120173343640QQihZ002QQcategoryZ72209QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Yes, but manufacturers don't generally build cars just with the performance view in mind, it's nearly always a compromise unless you've just been and bought a McLaren F1. In the case of the car above I would imagine that the gearing would put it well outside of the powerband on the shift up to 5th, but that doesn't mean you're shifting up in to unusable power. MR2's don't have a particularly close ratio gearbox, but then they don't need it as they have plenty of torque to get them up and going again. It's a much different engine characteristic to a revvy Civic engine which flails when it's outside of it's powerband (VTEC range). This line though, totally confuses me?! lol..
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I know in cars like the Supra and the Celica/MR2, the gearboxes are set up with the top gear as an overdrive. So the next gear down (5th in the Supra, 4th in a Celica/MR2) is set up with 1:1 ratio and then top gear is set up as an overdrive for cruising. 1st gear needs to be set up with a reasonable ration to get the car moving on any incline and then the other gears are spread in between with differing ratio.
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I see what you're saying Tom, but I think you're over simplifying things there. There's other reasons other than dropping the engine back in to it's powerband that go towards deciding what gear ratios a manufacturer will use. Most road cars gear ratios will also be decided upon for things such as a good cruising (motorway use) rpm, good fuel consumption etc. Cars like a Civic Type-R then yes the gears are designed to drop the engine back in to the start of it's power band otherwise they're next to useless, but every car is set up for different reasons.
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How come BHP figures vary so much with same boost?
ADL Mark replied to Dash Rendar's topic in mkiv Technical
Surely when we're talking about the amount of air it's flowing, then it's how fast it's flowing the air. So a small turbo will push out less air per minute (cfm say) at 1.2bar than a large turbo will at 1.2bar? -
Are these 52mm or 60mm Paul?
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Yes, you can adjust this to fuel cut at whatever level you like, there's instructions on http://www.mkiv.com on how to do this
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How much for the boot carpet Graham?
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As long as what I said made sense then that's fine. Lol.. I shall go and annoy Dusty and Joe and moan that I didn't get all the right bits Thanks Wez, I'll have a chat with a friend and see what he thinks about welding it up for me before I fit it. I wonder why it kept spitting the gasket out though.. Cheers for all the help so far guys, it's been very useful!
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My car has nearly 120k on the clock, so is going to need a refresh at some point anyway. Whilst open, I figure the extra cost would be worthwhile. From the technical discussions I've trawled through, it should quite help in getting the turbo up and going with virtually no lag and also beef out the torque at the bottom of the rev range? And can I just confirm about plumbing up the wastegate? One port goes to the compressor housing (and will also T in to one side of my boost controller?) and the other port goes to the other side of the boost controller? So essentially they both see the same boost reference, but the boost controller is in between the two ports working it's magic?
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Ahh, just had a look again at the wastegate and can see the side port. I hadn't noticed that before. Also missing the screw in bit for that, thought this was supposed to be a complete kit .
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Homer - what design problems were there, and with which bits? I thought Wes made up the kit from various different places? And I'm not totally sure what you mean about the wastegate? I thought it was like a normal turbo actuator, and just had a vacuum port which needed to see vacuum/boost so it would open and close?
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It is fairly similar to Wes' set up yes Rob. I don't think anybody will argue that his car is pretty much the benchmark for streetable cars around here. Once this is all on and setup, the next step will be cams and then if all goes to plan I will look later next year at a stroker kit but keeping this turbo and manifold. I think a well made 3.2 stroker kit with a cast log manifold and a T61 sized turbo would be absolutely killer on the road. Possibly even with an upgrade to DBB just to squeeze every ounce of quick-spooling from the turbo.
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No, there's a feed on the wastegate, see the last pic. No tee for the compressor housing though so I suppose I'll have to get that drilled and tapped myself and find a fitting for it too. Does the cartridge need rotating or just the compressor housing? I suppose the oil return needs to face down when the turbo is installed yes?
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Yes, the thought did strike me. I'm crap at keeping things polished too Got most of the wiring in for the Innovate kit tonight. Was trying to check it all before I hard wired it yesterday and couldn't get it to work no matter what I did. Had another gander at the manual today and it all became crystal clear for some reason. Works a treat, very pretty lights
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Yeh, not too bad, more than I need and a bit more than I wanted to spend though. Have been trawling eBay and found a 700MHz P3 IBM T20 for under £100. I'd just rather not use eBay to be honest..
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Looking for something for datalogging and mapping so preferably with an onboard serial port. If not, then must have a PCMCIA slot. Must be capable of running XP so minimum of 256Mb memory and 5Gb+ hard drive. Battery capable of lasting an hour would be a definite bonus as would wireless. Would prefer a decent make, IBM, Toshiba, Dell at a push.. Anybody got anything laying about?
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Photos of the now arrived turbo - http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-turbo1.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-turbo2.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-turbo3.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-turbo4.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-turbo5.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-turbo6.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-turbo7.jpg http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-turbo8.jpg And another one of the ITS wastegate with the vacuum takeover fitted to it. The braided line the fits on to this (screws on) I assume, but them I'm a bit stuck the other end as the compressor housing doesn't appear to have a vacuum take-off. I've just PM'd Joe about it. I checked Richard's thread about the install of this kit and his turbo appears to have a blue take-off similar to the wastegate one just at the compressor outlet. http://www.i-macca.co.uk/temp/singleconversion/Single-ITSwastegate4.jpg
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Chris, I had a dragging clutch caused by the last owner not changing the clutch fluid (good old Toyota service schedule ), it was black and watery before I changed it. The fluid change transformed the clutch action and bite, but has had a detremental effect on the flywheel (I assume overheated from drag and has high spots, as it 'wobbles' sometimes at the bite point). Could this have gone towards causing the clonk in the drivetrain even though it's now fixed?
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Tricky Ricky's DIY full bodykit build
ADL Mark replied to Tricky-Ricky's topic in mkiv Supra Projects
Coming on well Dick I'll have to pop round in the week and have another gander -
Sounds exactly like mine too, and other members have told me mine is actually quiet for a Getrag. Quite worrying really..
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Helping a friend fit an alarm to his UK Impreza turbo (1995 car I think), just wondering if anybody knows what type of central locking it runs, negative earth, positive earth, pulse etc.? Or how I check? I've been trawling google but can't find anything.. Cheers!