halllon

We are putting a Supra steering rack into a different chassis, and need to twist the tube that has the two valve inlets 180 degrees. Has anyone ever split Supra or SC steering rack fully apart, including splitting off the steel piston housing from the aluminum pinion housing? I believe that this is more than what you need to do when rebuilding these racks. Is the steel housing just pushed over the aluminum body by using heat? If so, what sort of heat is needed and what sort of method is best for releasing the steel housing from the aluminum body?

The pump seems to push about 20 gpm. I guess I will try the stock pump up front then, and a larger one in the rear of the car by the radiator outlet. We will be running a trunk mounted radiator with ducting from either underneath the car or from the roof side, using two Derale electric fans.

Those of you that are/have been running Meziere water pumps, especially when racing/drifting: Have you had any issues? Does it supply enough flow? I can see that it is only rated at 20gpm. We are thinking of putting one on a 2JZ drift car with rear mount radiator setup. Thanks!

Ok, sounds good. I'll try and gauge what the yanks are doing a little bit more before I decide. Thanks for the great input, much appreciated!

Although I know cheaping out shouldn't be an option with builds like these, we are on a budget and I don't want to go too overkill. I see Darin and co don't recommend mains upgrade before over 1100 hp. I wanted to see if we could get away with not opting for the billet mains, but I guess that's the best insurance you can get. What kind of rod and main bearings do you run, and was it a meticulous process? Do you think we need the L19 studs over tyhe stock ones, considering our mild cylinder pressure?

Hi Jamie, thanks for chiming in! Turbo sizing is yet to be determined with COMP Turbo. We ran 640 whp with stock VVTi cams and stock crank at 1.6 bar, and did simulate this new build up front (hence the power figure), but I do agree it sounds optimistic. We're not pushing for a specific power lever, but we will limit boost for drivability and longevity. Do you run either the girdle or the billet mains? I have seen some posts re: the girdle that says the washer have sunk in causing irregular torque readings. I have been very happy with everything MVP in the past, though, just want to touch base with someone that has tested the girdle.

Hi, We are building a 3.4 stroker motor utilizing a Brian Crower billet crank. The motor is for a drift application and will see its share of redline action, but we will run stock redline (7200 rpm), and we are limiting boost to about 25psi/1.7 bars running E85, so it will not be tuned beyond it's potential by any means. Do we need the MVP girdle/ARP studs for longevity, or is that overkill at this point? How about the ARP studs on their own? Cheers

Thanks! From what I gather the facelift six speeds were all equipped with the small casing differential. Does this mean the 37100-14840 is the one I need?

What is the difference between Toyota OEM part # 37100-14810 and part # 37100-14840? Both are propeller shaft assemblies, and I *think* one if them is to mate a six speed box to the large casing differential, while the other one is to link a six speed box to a small casing differential. I have the small casing differential. Which part number is correct for me? Thanks in advance!

Thanks guys! What kind of info do you guys want to know? Let me know and I'll try to fill you in.

Cheers Chris! What is the price of ARP rod bolts (as compared to stock ones), and do they allow higher revs? We will reuse the old crank as it has done roughly 40k kms and is as new. We are only replacing the rod bearings as a safety measure as we have already split sump.

We'll measure them up and order accordingly, either from ACL or Toyota. What is the correct rod bolt torque settings for stock VVTi 2JZ-GTE rods and bolts (as per the Toyota manual)? I have found these numbers for the 2JZ-GE NA engine but I don't know whther GTE numbers differ: Connecting Rod Bolt Step 1 .................................... 21 lbs/ft (29 nm) Step 2 ........................... Additional 90 Degrees Thanks in advance!

Cheers guys, I'll forward this thread to the tuner helping us out and we'll take it from there.

Thanks Miguel! Do I have to actually measure each bearing, or is the mark (from 1 to 5) printed/marked on the back of the bearing?

Hey guys, Does anyone have the part number for VVTi 2JZ-GTE rod bearings? I have problems figuring it out from ToyoDIY. I need all six, so preferably a set if that comes out cheaper. They have to be standard dimensions. By the way, are VVTi and non-VVTi bearings the same part number? Thanks in advance.

Here's a little insight to my personal experiences from going to all GATEBIL Sweden and Norway events over the last three years: Gatebil Rudskogen, Norway is by far the biggest event. This is the ultimate "GATEBIL" event attracting up to 45 000 spectators/participants. The track is cool and allows you to get pretty close to the action if you are spectating - compared to the usual UK tracks I guess you can call it intimate (that goes for the rest of the event as well ). Gatebil Mantorp, Sweden is the best event from a driving perspective - it's a high speed track (pretty mental time attack, 120 mph+ drift entries). It's well suited to long legged Supras. Great atmosphere. We've had perfect weather for three years in a row now, and I think it's the best event on the calendar. I'd HIGHLY recommend you to plan for two weeks and take part at both events! Hook me up if you're going, would be great to chat it up with fellow Supe heads

Thanks Jamie! A couple more videos are added to the Youtube Gallery (click the YouTube icon) As for the spec of the car, have a look at this link (just published): http://fredricaasbo.com/cars

Thanks Alex! A cars section will be posted online in a couple of days!

Hi guys, Just wanted to post this here in case anyone is interested in drifting: http://fredricaasbo.com/ A couple of videos are just published to show a little of what we do. Let me know if you have any questions with regards to drift setup, etc. We are no tech experts in comparison to the other guys on here, but I would be glad to help if I can. Thanks, Fredric

Cheers Suprabass

Can't wait to get this program going! We plan to stay in touch and contribute to the Supra community in Europe and in the UK as well. Thanks, Fredric

Fredric Aasbo and Team Japan Auto announce New Partners & Compete in Formula DRIFT! OSLO, Norway - March 1st 2010: A new partnership with Southern California based tuner and race shop FSR Motorsport Creations sees Fredric Aasbo compete at Formula DRIFT Round 1: Streets of Long Beach on April 9th-10th. Comp Turbo/KRB Trading, Adaptronic/Import Tech, Kimmit Sport Racing, EBC Brakes/Brakes Norge and SWR has come on board for the 2010 season to boost the two Japan Auto Supras and the team to a whole new level. The Norwegian Supra is currently being painted and assembled by Aas Videregaaende High School students as part of a charity program. - We could not have found better partners. FSR Motorsport Creations is a well renown tuning and race shop with great visions for the future, and the support from some of the best tuning individuals and companies in Norway make for a whole new competitive car and team setup. This season will see our cars faster than ever, with better driveability and a stronger support network than we have ever had. We have been focusedon creating a full impact package for 2010, and we can't wait for the season to kick off! Fredric says the goal is to move forward and partner with companies and individuals that will benefit from the teams presence in both European and US drifting series. - We are now set up for a proper transatlantic season schedule, competing in both the US and in Europe. Ultimately our goal is to work with FSR Motorsport Creations to create a long term drift and race program in Formula DRIFT for years to come. We are going at it against the best, and Formula DRIFT: Streets of Long Beach on April 9th-10th will be our debut. See you in Long Beach! Fredric Aasbo is a Norwegian drift driver representing Japan Auto, PBC Auto, BS Bildeler, FSR Motorsport Creations, CRC, Panvulk, KRB Trading, Comp Turbo, Kimmit Sport Racing, Adaptronic, ImportTech, Agip, EBC Brakes, Brakes Norge, Nuke Performance, Auto-Sign, BlackBox Media and SWR. Fredric Aasbo is two time Nordic Drifting Series Champion and competes in European and North American Drifting Series. Feel free to browse through the Fredric Aasbo and Team Japan Auto 2010 Sponsorship Program online at http://www.fredricaasbo.com/FredricAasboJapanAuto2010_EN.pdf FSR Motorsport Creations - FSRMotorsports.com Fredric Aasbo Official Web - FredricAasbo.com http://www.fredricaasbo.com/FSR_FredricAasbo_March1st.jpg

I want to bolt the relocator straight to the block. I have the sandwich/relocator, but I need to find a hollow bolt that has the correct length to bolt it into the block. Where can I get a correct length bolt? Will the hollow bolt that bolts to the filter on a NA 2JZ fit? Great project, by the way!

Hey guys, I want to remove the oil filter bracket and the water-to-oil heat exchanger/preheater entirely and bolt the oil cooler/filter relocator takeoff straight to the block. Part ID 15671 is the bracket I want to remove: http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/diag_1iTxUYE.png However, I need a shorter bolt to mount the filter relocator directly to the block. Does anyone now if the double threaded bolt from the NA filter bracket will fit? The double threaded bolt is visible in the lower part of this pic (it's the one that the filter bolts to): http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/diag_1iTxUY3.png It doesn't have it's own part number, so I'll probably have to get the entire oil filter bracket from an NA to get just the bolt. Will this bolt fit? If not, where can I get a double threaded, hollow bolt that will bolt straight to the block and filter and have the correct length? Cheers in advance!

Cheers Marty! The car wasn't remapped back then, it ran bone stock management and regular fuel. Only mods were air filter, FMIC and the exhaust removed. Boost peaked at 1.4, and I had to lift off and reapply throttle every three or five seconds to avoid boost cut coming into effect... Lol Here's a short video from Prodrift Series Round 3 2008 at Sturup: