Supranature

Wth the help of Mini Me? I find it impossible without moving steering reservoir out the way!

The 4.2C was a rare car in its day, never mind now. I'll bet you could count those left on one hand.

Well f@@k me, Jamie P has emigrated to Thailand. Welcome, and some great cars you have, and very different too.

Nah.... The "petrolhead" one was the best.

Easy to forget our cars are actually "old"

Apart from duff 02 sensors and binding brakes, is there anything else that can cause bad fuel consumption on the 2JZ engine (both) Apologies to OP, but this seems the best place to ask.

http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/supra/turbo.htm

Hmm.... from http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/techo.htm#INTERCOOLERUPGRADE When should I upgrade my Intercooler? The stock intercooler is very good as far as factory intercoolers go and if you are running the stock boost of 11psi then there is no reason to install a FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler) apart from looks. However once you turn the boost up above 16psi (which needs a Fuel Cut Defender) then there are benefits to be gained from installing a FMIC. These are: More power (approx 10-15kw extra at the wheels) Less thermal stress on the engine due to cooler intake and exhaust temperatures. Increased boost levels (2-4psi) before detonation occurs. What size and brand of FMIC should I install? Interesting reading;) They say size doesn't matter but when it comes to intercoolers it usually does. A good size for a stock turbo'd mkiv supra running say 18-20psi would be 600mm Wide x 300mm High x 75mm Deep. This should give you all the benefits listed above and should handle up to 300kw at the wheels. If you are running aftermarket turbo(s) and you are making more HP then 300kw at the wheels then you should install a bigger FMIC. A good size for 400+kw at the wheels would be 700mm Wide x 300-400mm High x 100-125mm Deep or bigger if you can fit it in. The gap between the front rails on the Supra is around 790mm so taking account of the end tanks on the FMIC, it will need to fit into this gap. Just one word of caution with FMIC's. They do reduce the amount of air reaching the radiator and that air will be heated as well, so you can cause overheating problems if the FMIC is too big or too deep. A possible option to help alleviate this problem would be to install twin 12" electric fans instead of the factory thermatic fan and tiny subsidiary electric fan(s). There are a large number of aftermarket FMIC's available but unfortunately there is very little data available on flow rates, pressure drop and cooling efficiency available. Spearco who make alot of the cores used in these intercoolers do publish this information, but matching their cores to actual branded intercoolers in well nigh impossible. There are also alot of small companies that make intercoolers and again there is unlikely to be any data on them. There are alot of people that will tell you fitting a large FMIC is going to result in a big increase in lag but to that I say Rubbish! Whatever lag increase there may be from the FMIC will be mainly attributable to using larger diameter intercooler pipework and having an intercooler with much larger end tanks then the factory intercooler. When I created my FMIC using 3 factory intercoolers welded end-to-end I ended up with an intercooler that has a core of 660mm Wide x 270mm High and 125mm Deep. This hybrid intercooler will flow enough air to support over 400kw at the wheels and there was absolutely no perceptable increase in lag. This is because I was using the factory end tanks which are very shallow and the intercooler piping I used was only 63mmID. which is what alot of the factory system is. This piping does flow alot better then the factory setup though as the factory pipework squeezes down to around 55mm as it goes through the side chassis wall down to the intercooler. If you go for a brand name product such as HKS, Greddy or Blitz then expect to pay around NZ$3000 for one. However, a non-brand name intercooler that performs identically can be had from between NZ$1000 to NZ$1500. There are two core types for air-to-air intercoolers and they both have their advantages and disadvantages. The BAR & PLATE type has more pressure drop and a lower flow rate but usually has a higher efficiency. The TUBE & FIN type has less pressure drop and a higher flow rate at the expense of a lower efficiency and will be the lower priced of the two. The factory mkiv intercooler is a TUBE & FIN design. Here are links to two intercooler upgrades done by NZ Supra group members. See Kevin's Tube & Fin FMIC Upgrade or Lindsay's Plate & Bar FMIC Upgrade Intercooler Efficiency The stock Japanese mkiv intercooler has to cool 280hp worth of air (same intercooler as Export mkiv) when the motor is at stock hp rating. However as soon as you start increasing the hp (extra boost, high flow inlet, exhaust upgrades, cams, etc) the efficiency of the stock intercooler begins to drop very quickly. You don't believe me? As an example. lets assume we are now getting 400hp out of our mkiv. This is getting near the limit of the Japanese mkiv turbos of about 450hp, so is a good example. If we divide 400 by 280 we get a minimum increase in airflow of 42.86%, or 1.4286 times the airflow. As we havn't changed the intercooler, or the size of the pipes feeding the intercooler, then the air (remember there is 1.4286 more of it) has to flow 1.4286 times faster to get through the pipe in the same time. If we assume the total cooling power of the intercooler is fixed (a reasonable assumption, which I'll discuss later) then there is 1.4286 times the amount of air to cool in 1/1.4286 (or 0.7000) the amount of time. If we multiply these two factors together (1.4286 * 1.4286), you get 2.0409. This means the intercooler is now only 1/2.0409 (0.4900 or 49.0%) as efficient as it was at stock hp. Also, if we are running the stock turbos at higher boost levels to achieve the 400hp, then they will be running at a lower efficiency level then stock, and hence producing more heat, per unit of boosted air produced. This means the intercooler will have hotter air entering then at stock boost, thus further increasing the temperature of the air exiting the intercooler. The intercooler will now be less then 49% as efficient as stock, perhaps about 45% or so. The benefits of an intercooler upgrade become immediatly apparent. What does an efficiency of 45% of the stock intercooler actually mean? Without getting technical, it means you would need more then two stock intercoolers, if they were arranged in series. By series, I mean all the air flows through one and then flows through the second intercooler. However, if you take those same two stock intercoolers and arrange them in parallel (1/2 the air flows through each one) then you can increase hp from 400 to 560 (280 x 2) and still get the same air temperature into the engine. This is because you now have the same amount of air as stock flowing through each intercooler, and the air is flowing through the intercooler at the same speed as stock. I plan to produce some hard data soon, on inlet/outlet temperatures at different boost levels with a stock intercooler, and then with an upgraded intercooler system , to support (or refute) these arguments. My upgraded intercooler system will consist of two stock intercoolers (one in each front brake air entry), with 50% of the airflow going through each intercooler. Theoretically, there will then be about 200hp of air flowing through each intercooler, which should make my system (280 / 200 = 1.40) 40% more efficient than the stock system, with a considerable increase in hp and a large reduction in intercooler exit air temperatures as a result. I welcome any discussion (Email me) on these points I have raised, especially any mathematical analysis of my estimates of the intercooler efficiency drop as more air goes through the intercooler.

Didn't think Belgians had a sense of humour You must have English blood in you

Sounds like you have a gravity-fed boiler system. If there is a header tank in the loft and a seperate hot water cylinder then it is. You dont NEED to have a combi, but to change to a combi from a gravity would be expensive. However, a gravity boiler is usually a few quid dearer than a combi, £550 upwards. Fitting the replacement varies on location, here in Liverpool it can be done for a few hundred £...... depends who you know, etc. Dont expect any change from a grand. (total) Gravity fed systems are generally accepted to be a "better" system, and it HAS to be a condenser. A qualified plumber would be reluctant to fit a 2nd hand boiler, and no way if it was not a condenser. Remember, they have to certify it.

Rear wiper motor (arm not needed), £20 delivered?

Personally I get mine from a Motor Factor as they tend to be much cheaper tham Halfords/Motor World. They all more or less do the same job tbh. Some recommend the replacement of the fuel filter with a new one, then 100% neat additive in with the filter to do the job properly.

Theres quite a few products that do similar/same as that, but yes, I have used them. On the day, add to tank which is near empty, add £10 fuel, then go for a blast up the M56 to get it working. The trick with a diesel engine is to make sure its still warm when tested

Vivid green Stevo. The brown filter aids to make the colour a little more subtle.

Not yet, I am waiting for a mate who tunes Audi Quattros to go through all the info. There must be members who could comment though.

If Mr 6 only requires rear calipers, any chance of the discs? I can collect, I live in West Derby.

Cant be specific, but read this http://www.max-boost.co.uk/max-boost/supra/boosting_the_beast.htm

Do you have middle brake light and drivers a-pillar trim?

I'm after the middle brake light and drivers a-pillar trim please.

There is a thread going in to great detail by a Member of the physical/real world properties of various brake set-ups- the "Definitive brake thread" I think. You will get a surprise if you can dig it out and read through.....

Thats not a flueless appliance my friend.To determine what type of flue you have, go outside and look at your roof. If you have a chimney stack its a Class 1 flue, unless its capped with a 5'' cowl, in which case only a Class 2 appliance can be fitted. If you have a vented ridge tile then you have a pre-cast/Class 2 flue. Basically if you intend to replace that fire with a freestanding one, you can have any. If you intend to go with an inset living flame, you must determine your flue type first. If you want a living flame I can get you one (a good one) for around £150 brand new. I have a friend who manufactures them. HTH.

Damn awkward working hours! Do you know where I can get one from?

Is this meant to go over the existing trim or in place of a piece of it. interested. Is it Supra specific?

Do you have a working 3rd brake light please?

Have you got 3rd brake light and drivers A-pillar trim? How much delivered if you have?