pezzler

I wanted this first time round - immaculate motor, shouldnt hang around long

I think just about everyone is in the same boat, I know I am! Just been plagued with fault in top of fault, and once one is rectified, another rears its head. I personally dont like using 2nd hand parts either so it gets so bloody expensive, and I know i'm overdue replacing the wishbones amongst other expensive bits and bobs Unless you have a fair amount of disposable cash, these cars ARE more trouble than their worth ....but, as with pretty much everything, you wouldn't be interested if it was easy

Had this many times before too; the last time was when I was selling a my Hyundai Coupe (yeah I already know...). Was in contact with a guy via email guy abroad, who was very willing to forward me a cheque for £2000 over the asking price, as long as I could deliver the car to a container ship Obviously knew it was a scam so I strung him along for ages, in the end he got the arse with me and sent me loads of abuse - good times...... hope he wasnt genuine

Like i'm driving Miss Daisy

Yeah, that When I had my first Supra, that overheated. This was way before I knew much about cars; I called the AA, and the guy told me that the HG was leaking. A day or so routing around under the bonnet revealed a leaky core plug - plug out, new one in, job done..... think it cost me 34p

Any chance of pics of the Recaros?

Replaced my SMIC earlier this year with a Whifbitz one, the old one basically blew away in the wind when I took it out - binned it Good luck with the sale, but I think £100 may be ambitious

Too true. This year I have replaced the following connectors: all 6 coilpack, MAP sensor, IAT sensor, both cam position sensor, ECU temperature sender, dash temperature sender, throttle position sensor Its absolute madness, as soon as you look at one of these 18 year old connectors, they fall apart and blow away in the wind. My advice to anyone would be; if you're about to carry out a job where you will need to remove the harness from sensor(s), then presume that the connector will be useless and order it in beforehand and replace it anyway. Nothing worse than getting your teeth into a job and having to be held up to order connectors

Yeah its the connector for the dash temperature sender; it's currently just a bare crimp pushed onto the sender pin, its on and working, but i'm not entirely pleased with it. Popping a spade on it would hold, Would prefer to have the original connector back on Thanks for taking the time to point me in the right direction Andy - lifesaver. Great tech post by the way

Bump

Thought i'd do a (late) update for future reference I replaced the connectors, they were far more accessable that I had first though - took about 15 mins The mid sensor connector was intact but a little ropey so I replaced it, and the rear connector was cracked straight down the middle which in turn completely buggered its ability to seal. The result being, that the pins had engine oil on them from a slightly weepy cam-cover gasket. Connectors replaced, and it hasnt skipped a beat yet - thanks to Ian and Chris for the input

Sorry chap, kinda jumped straight on it - completely forgot to reply ...feel like a right A-hole All sorted though, thanks for the input

Love number 12 in the "engine details" box With all the work and money that has been pumped into this car, that little rad cap must be pleased as punch to get a mention

As stated, i've been trying to find the part number for the single pin connector that attaches to the temperature sender in the water neck My connector fell into a million pieces when I seperated it, and it just so happens that the part number is embossed on the housing of connector, so i'm fooked. I had a look on ToyoDIY but it seems they no longer have exploded diagrams anymore. Also been to a Toyota and they said they need the part number really Can anyone help, does anyone have a loom lying around that they could quickly have a look at? If someone could take a gander for me, there should be a 5 digit number embossed on the connector Cheers

Love it when one of these comes along

If you're sure you want that sort of power, then it'd be a good idea to get the car over to a specialist and get it checked over (especially compression/leak down test) then get their opinion on whether it would be worthwhile doing without opening the engine If you're really looking to do things properly and cover all angles, then you're going to want to do things like: getting the head refurbed (valves, seats, seals), new oil pump, new crank pulley, new cam belt and tensioner, new water pump - obviously these little jobs will hike the cost up, but you'll also get a little extra peace of mind

You knocked him down 2k and you haven't even seen the car yet? He must be desperate to sell if he's willing to drop it by £2000 without you even taking a look at it and twisting his arm. He seems very eager to sell, be wary

I like the reverse beeping, you dont get beeping in a manual - consider it an upgrade

I had this problem with my car for ages, drove me mad After weeks of mucking about with it, it turned out to be one of the joints on the O/S drive shaft was fecked. A tell tale sign was when I was removing the allen bolts that mount the driveshaft to the diff; every bolt I removed was caked in grease, thought something wasnt right. On seperating the shaft from the diff, I noticed the grease was everywhere and decided it had moved on to a better place. Not sure if you can buy the parts from toyota to refurb/replace the joints, i'm sure I remember reading somewhere that you have to buy the whole shaft?? I had a spare set of driveshafts from a low mileage car so I just replaced the entire shaft/hub assembly, ticking noise gone Obviously check the wheel bearings for play, and check that its not just the pads rattling in the calipers first. If you get really baffled though, pop a couple of bolts out of the drive/diff union on both sides to see if any of the are covered in grease

Pay peanuts, you get monkeys I'd be put off if someone told me they'd spray something on my car for £80 Hope you get your cash back mate, but these guys seem like proper cowboys - trading standards??

Bite the "bullet" and "shell" out for them

Cant you just use a universal T-piece? The T on my boost line is off of a Cimbali cappuccino machine, works a treat!

The dash panels are pretty simple to remove, there are a couple of guides with pictures on here somewhere - the first time you do it, it should take you no longer than 30 mins to get them all off. Be patient with the connectors, if your car hasnt been "messed" around with much, then the connectors my be a little stubborn, dont pull on the loom to get extra purchase when trying to disconnect a connector Best off painting the dash in my opinion, the carbon covering looks like it would eventually give you a headache. If your dash still has the rubbery covering on it, and you do decide to paint the dash, you will need to remove this; you should be able to get the rubber off with thinners and elbow grease Good luck, remember to post before and after pics

Interested to see how the full kit looks - subscribed

Its a Supra, the back end will step out.... deal with it My old n/a used to hang its arse out even at low(ish) RPM Get some chubby back wheels with decent tyres