kjgreen3

Another thought is if the brake fluid reservoir went empty at any point during your caliper swap air could have gotten into tge abs unit. It can be a real PITA to purge the air outta there. More knowledgeable members/search function can point you into the best ways to bleed out the abs unit.

That's what I thought but after taking out the old piston I could see how the seal has flipped the wrong way. Maybe pressing the brake pedal flares the seal with the pressure being behind it stopping it flaring backwards. Anyway after it happened I talked to a few mechanics who say they always release the bleed nipple to allow the pressure to bleed out the nipple rather than the master cylinder for this very reason. Maybe I'm unlucky done this dozens of times on various cars prior to this incident with no issue but since it happened on the supra I always release pressure through the bleed nipple when pressing back brake pistons.

Have you got this sorted? If not sounds like the same issue I had when refurbing my jspecs with new pistons seals etc. When squeezing pistons in I didn't open up nipple so fluid was pressing on master cylinder piston to get back to reservoir. It flipped the seal backwards pretty much making the master cylinder useless. You get brake feel when engine off but no breaking resistance when engine on and vacuum assist comes into play. Travel was to the floor with little or no braking. Since you have upgraded brake calipers. You may as well order a refurbished master cylinder kit. Then try the bleeding suggested by Mr Wilson and Dnk.

As Mr Wilson says disable it or make it a manual. I recently fitted an electric gate for the first time (I'm an Electrician btw its not my normal field of expertise) and the amount of STANDARDS you have to meet if its automatic operation is ridiculous. As you say children have been crushed to death, hence all the recent stupid EXTRA legislation and EXTRA safety systems you have to install, calibrate and test. 175 notes is a lot but the 'Engineer' now has liability for your gate, Any accidents or damage to people/vehicles and he will have to prove he left it in a fit state after servicing. He sounds confident if he only spent 45 mins there. I breakdown his costs as this. Labour 75 inc VAT Liability of installation 100 Health and safety overrides common sense unfortunately and its pricey to boot.

You may get a quicker sale if you can link to site with its specs as that is a lot of money for a 1.5 Tonne jack. HOWEVER I think its a lightweight (Aluminium construction) with quick lift feature. If that is the case then its worth 130 all day long. Good luck with the sale. I would have bought it, but got a similar jack recently.

Toy coppers would (PCSO's as stated by the OP)

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Are these wheels straight. With no buckling, cracks or dents? (Not worried about scratches or having to get them re-painted) If so would you do £180 including delivery (courier/recorded delivery). I'm located in Sheffield.

OEM rad is copper core, take it to your local scrappy. You will get at least 10-15 quid for it.

Yes a firm in Sheffield had the tender, If you know where to look you can see part of the huge pipes (rusting away) that were to be used in the construction of the huge barrel. I think an initial payment was made and construction started, but the gun was never to be completed as the Gulf war took off soon after.

Check out super capacitors linky: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Supercapacitor If this could be incorporated with current or next generation lithium ion technology it would make electric cars more practical. You could recoup energy through regenerative breaking and they could act like a turbo for electric cars as their internal resistance is negligible so thousands of amps (albeit for a few seconds) could be drawn from them.

Sorry can't help you with that as I have no experience of turbo timers. Do you really need one? Can you not just let the car idle for a minute or two before switching off. The other option is to find the manufacturers instructions and ring their technical helpline, find out if the permanent live can be routed through the ignition with no detriment to the timer. Free bump anyway if this advice doesn't help.

It 'may' also be powering the memory to your head unit or the electric aerial controller. I had a similar discharge issue, but my draw was closer to 100mA.

Ditto, I live in Sheffield. When I had some issues I had the supra trailered down to Chris Wilson in Shrophire. Worth every penny for his expertise and quality work. With these cars you have to be VERY careful who you trust to work on them. For example I took the supra to a Toyota Garage in Sheffield a couple of years ago (where the new Mike Brewer franchise car sales place is now) to pick up some parts I had ordered. The head mechanic/technician came out and said to me and I quote "Nice car mate is it a Nissan". After I showed him the Toyota emblem he said he had never seen one before and could he have a chance to work on it when it next needed it doing. I politely declined, If my local Toyota dealership doesn't know they made the Supra, then God help us or maybe take it to a Nissan Dealership!

Hey peeps just been prowling internet for new front tyres. Always been a fan of the Vredestein Ultrac/Ultra Sessanta. Found it cheaper to order online and get a local tyre company to fit. As of today Black Circles couldn't quote for 235/45/17 although the 18" version was ~£120, Mytres came in at £91.10. Which I thought was good. But as an afterthought I tried Camskill and that is ~£80.00 delivered!! Bargain. So anyone needing some tyres now or soon should check them out, especially if it needs to be the Vreds.

P38 2 pack (resin and hardener) from halfords for dings excluding the lip. Ideally the lip wants welding/flattening because as soon as a tyre is changed it will crack any filler used on the lip when they lever off/on the tyre. Best advise would be to contact IBRAR at speedwells or anyone else on here that refurbishes wheels.

Aha but on the flip side hot oil has circulated around the engine leaving a thin film on all working parts therfore not giving a true measure on the dipstick. For example you fill car from empty with 5 litres of oil. Run up to temperature, wait a few minutes and note the reading on the dipstick. Then the next day when cold measure again and I bet the reading will be the same or even higher as oil has drained back into the sump offsetting the small thermal expansion of the hot oils reading.

I check when cars cold so all the oil has gravity drained into the sump (on a levelish surface as well). I don't think it matters hot or cold as another question that needs answering is the dip stick only checks the last litre of oil? For example say the correct oil limit on the supra is 5 litres from empty. The dip stick will still measure empty even after you have filled it with 3.5-4 litres then it will read minimum and the last litre takes it from minimum to maximum on the dipstick. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. But I'm sure on the supra this is PRETTY much the case.

Doesn't seem that steep to me, maybe always leave at least half a tank of fuel in the car if you are worried about fuel starvation. I doubt it would be a problem anyway unless you like driving with the fuel light on.

NO, the fuse is designed for high current audio applications. Yes you will need a fuse but you will have to know what your starter motor takes when cranking over the engine and have a fuse rated for that maximum current, otherwise that 150A may pop when you try starting the supra. Maybe read up on some battery relocation threads and find out what fuse they used. But yes best to have a fuse next to the positive on the battery as if the main positive cable from the battery shorts to ground you could end up setting fire to the car.

You shouldn't need more than 5m for that. Last time I checked 0 Gauge is around 9-10 quid per metre, you may be better off buying an amplifier kit just for the 0 gauge cable. For example http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3000W-Complete-Amplifier-AMP-Wiring-Kit-0-Gauge-150-AMP-/250671158154?clk_rvr_id=472779333699&afsrc=1

If your 120A fuse has blown, Ideally check the entire fuse carrier assembly first before putting in another 120A fuse. You really need to work out what caused it to blow if it has. I'm not up reasons why, possibly other members can chip in why it would blow. I can only think of maybe a direct short to bodywork from the positive feed out from that fuse (that 120A fuse feeds all the other fuses via a positive busbar under the fuse carrier) so check for that first. Or TEMPORARILY put a very thin bit of wire (less than half a millimetre thick) across the blown 120A fuse, 'battery disconnected first!' reconnect battery and check to see if gauges, dash and exterior lights now have power. Ideally using a clamp meter across main battery positive to check for excessive current draw. DO NOT TRY TO START CAR WITH THIS METHOD ITS PURELY FOR DIAGNOSIS. If all the above is fine buy new 120A fuse install cross fingers and try to start car from a healthy fully charged battery without jump starting.

Should have worked off his mates car especially with a 230amp alternator (medium revs at least 2000-3000rpm) and heavy gauge 600ampish jump leads. Only time it may not is if the battery is ok and deeply disharged and sucking all the current from the jump to charge itself. It the battery is fubared it wouldn't interfere with a jump start. My guess is check the main 120 amp fuse. If that has popped putting a brand new battery in will not start the car or light the guages.

Yes very weird. If this is a legit first post then congratulations on a good deal. However I rang up sky a couple of days ago for a quote and they came in ~£250 more than the cheapest quote I got which in the end was £395. So they can't please everyone.