n boost

Ok guys, probably posted this in the wrong section but as title............if a engine has been out of a car for 8 mths and then fitted/started and u find low compression in 4 adjacent cyclinders............how would u know if it was valves or headgasket without removing head? I know u can't be 100% sure until removed,but must be some ways to give u a rough idea. Basically bought a engine of a guy who had it removed over 8 mths ago and when fitted, we found compression low in 4 cyclinders( 1+2/4+5).......3 & 6 were ok. The guy i bought it off insists, their was nothing wrong with it as it was removed from his own car but then again they all say that. On the m3's it cause's the car to det badly which can be heard whilst driving in gear very easily although in neutral everything is perfect. So any pointers in trying to identify the problem without ripping the engine apart? Already squirted oil down cyclinders and no change in compression, so rings ok. P.s..the engine is for a bmw m3. Thanks in advance.

Happy B'day buddy!

What!...........u got another project going on? Will have to pop down once it gets going to have a look.

Or if your borrowing a mates car, just hpi it and get 7 days free insurance lol!

On the m3 forum we have a couple guys who already have ksports and been tracking their cars for over a year without issues and 100% positive feedback. My car is a road car and will be used for odd trackdays here and their, so ksport will be more than enough. People might say go AP's because of the name but if u do a search and u will find even the big names have had issues here and there!

I ad one off the very first ksport kits when they were released a few years back on my single turbo supra. I did have ds2500 pads in their and not crappy k sports pads. I removed my uk brake setup and fitted these and can honesty say they were much better. My uk setup was running uprated pads/discs and these were easily better overall. People can say what they like but i would like to know how many people dissing the cheaper brake kits have actually tried/had them? People will make all sorts of assumptions but its alll hear say IMO. I have just ordered a ksport kit for my E46 m3 along with 10 other members on the m3 forum as part of a group buy and most these cars will be tracked.

Nothing wrong with ksports for the money IMO.

They would have better customer service if they opened a call centre in India is what i've heard. Loads of stories on the net about them and i'm also on M3cutters forum!

ok bud.

Any pics of tyres/repairs?

I've started to dig my own hole!

Congrats bro!

Sound quite cheap to me lol!..................But then again i have pay approx £200 for my oil change at bmw for my M3!

I would go for it but the market has changed quite drastically............well in brum anyway. My mate owns a well known cosworth tuning garage and even he say's the last few months he has mainlly just had general servicing work and hardly any tuning stuff. He even had one customer wanting a remap so he could run the car on 95 oct fuel because it was cheaper than v power which he is currently mapped for. If u have a market up your end then go for it and as u have low overheads and most the stuff u need, there's no harm in trying and not much to lose.

This year so far i've got a sp30 3 points & £60 fine and another £60 fine for not wearing my belt. I tell u what...........i fcuking slap my belt on everytime i drive now and also my licence was totally clean first time after about 7 yrs and only got it back clean in dec 09 and now have to send it back again! Fcuk am i letting this Gov't take anymore of my money!...........i mean, i've never had a fine for my seatbelt in 14 yrs of driving but as soon as the double it from £30 to £60, i get hit! Police = revenue collecters!

He got off lightly TBH!

I'm stuck in my t-mobile contract at present and last year it was per sec billing but know is per min! I normally never go above my allowance but since this permin billing i'm always getting screwed. I also paid extra to have all 08 numbers included in my allowance only to find that their i a list of 0845 0870 etc etc that are not included and got billed £30 one month for numbers that i though were included in my allowance!

I have one mate, painted silver (cr4p job).

My clutch started to judder/vibarate in my e46 m3 6 spd manual recently which has a dual mass flywheel. I haven't driven the car since it started doing this but thought i'd take it for a drive to keep the battery charged today. Things i've noticed today are that the clutch doesn't judder like say it would on a normal car with a worn out clutch, but instead u can feel a vibaration through the clutch pedal along its travel and then judders at biting point when taking off. I can also feel a very slight vibaration when changing gear and letting the clutch out. It doesn't slip and engages all gear fine but when u press the clutch pedal down and hold it their and rev the car at the same time i feel the vibration and it will stay their until i bring the clutch up and move off. I noticed their is a noise when pressing the clutch pedal to the floor whilst in gear and revving the car (stationary). Sounds like chatter and dissapears when i take my foot off the clutch or whilst the car is moving in gear but i also get a whizzing noise when changing gears. Car drives spot on apart from noise/vibration. So the question is............does these symptons seem to be the flywheel fooked rather than clutch? I know box will have to come off either way but would like to know anyway from someone who has more knowledge about clutches/flywheels. I've had loads clutches go on previous cars but none have felt like this before.

Well i currently have my e46 m3 for sale which hasnt missed a beat in the 14 mths i've had it until i sold it on ebay! The guy came on a train from Sheffield and i picked him up and as he took it for a quick drive round the block the fecking clutch started juddering badly, so sale fell through. Then last Sat another guy came who i told about the clutch fault and knocked some one off for replacement but my 2 mths old battery died and car wouldn't start! Had to jump start it but needless to say the sale fell through again! So right now i am well pee'd off trying to sell and may just put a clutch in as i just fitted a new battery again and keep the car unless someone turns up with a bundle of cash and convince me otherwise.

Done!

Selling these for a mate who don't require them anymore as he's had change of plans and is fitting a aftermarket ecu with boost control module. These are the ltd edition D1 versions, white casing and cool blue display. Will try and upload some pics later. Please PM me as i'm really busy for the next few days so dont get much time to flick through the threads. £350 for the pair.

Thanks for the advice guys, will relay the info on to him. Car drives ok but is slow on cranking to start it up...........sounds like battery isn't powerful enough, so he doesn't want it to not start 1 day as he needs it for work which is a 60 mile round trip for him. Will tell him to pop into halfruads to see if they have anything.

Happy B'day bud, and have a good one!

Asking on behalf of my mate whos run around e36 bmw is running low on power but doesnt smoke. Did a compression test and 2 cyclinders were down to approx 120 psi each while the others had approx 170 psi. Added a cap full of oil to do a wet test and the compression shot up to 150 and 168 psi for the 2 low cyclinders. So i assume this is down to bad/worn rings? Question is: He can't afford to fix the problem right now and wanted to know if their are any additives he can add to restore the compression ? He knows this will only be a temp fix but he needs a couple months to get his bonus, when he will put another engine in. Also if u squirt oil down the cyclinder to raise compression (wet test)....will this make the car smoke afterwards at all? If he added a cap full of oil in each bad cyclinder, how long would the higher compression achieved last? Thanks in advance.