MA70

If anyone is interested I have a set of unused front discs and pads. UK spec - (323mm diameter for 17" wheels). Consisting of a set of Black-Diamond 12 slotted front discs (KBD942G12), and a set of Black-Diamond Predator Brake Pads (PP424) For more details visit DC performance.co.uk who are the cheapest I have found: https://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/2091006/toyota/black-diamond-front-12-grooved-brake-discs/kbd942g12.html £400.00 for everything, +postage at £25.00 if you cannot collect. The total weight is 22.5Kg. Money up front or cash on collection.

I have recently extracted my rear speed sensors intact and so have information that may be of use to some people. I bought a set of the Yaris sensors from ebay (£40), in case I knackered mine trying to get them out, and can therefore say that the Yaris ones can be made to work mechanically. However they are not a direct fit and will require some thought in how they are mounted and how the cable is routed away. And the cable will need extending. They are also different to mine (1993 TT Jap import) electrically. In particular it seems the magnetic bias on the core is reversed which will reverse the signal polarity. This may be a problem, dependant on how cleaver the ABS unit is, and may require the wires to be reversed to compensate. Also the coil resistance is a lot higher, 1K5 rather than 900R. When I rebuild the subframe I intend to fit my originals but will also experiment with the Yaris ones to see if they can be made to work with the ABS unit. If people are interested I can write up what I have found so far, in more detail, and give updates as I progress.

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I seem to have been missed off the list....... Black mats, Blue binding and Blue logo please Pretty much like my attached photo, but with the grey bits in blue.

Black mats, Blue binding and Blue logo please Pretty much like the attached photo, but with the grey bits in blue. Thanks for going to the effort of organising this. Post how you want us to pay [ATTACH]122999[/ATTACH]

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I have the actuator already. I need the control unit and the switches to operate it. On my MkIII the control switchs are located on the steering wheel. I have never seen them on the MkIV but believe the are located on a stalk on the steering column. let me know a price for the control unit, stalk-switch thingy and anything else that may be specific to a car fitted with cruise control.

I have the actuator already. I need the control unit and the switches to operate it. On my MkIII the switches are located on the steering wheel. I have never seen them on a MkIV but belive they are on a stalk on the steering column. Let me know a price for the control unit, stalk-switch thingy and anything else that may be specific to a car fitted with cruise control.

You mentioned cruise control in your first post. If still available I am interested in the control unit, the control switches and the steering column surronds. Please let me know a price for these items

Hi Imi, I had the master cylinder on my Manta leak. This car had a dual circuit break system so if one failed you still have some breaks. The master cylinder was effectivly two pistons, on behind the other, and the seals on one of them started to leak. As the seal only leaked slightly, when I stamped on the breaks they initially felt firm and worked ok. However if I kept the presure on, the pedel slowly sank as the fluid leaked past the bad seal. Had to keep pumping....... ! It was the rear seal that failed so the fluid was leaking into the foot well and being absorbed by the sound insulation. As I recall the refurb kit (new seals) didn’t cost much. A lot less than the master cylinder. This will be fine if the cylinder bore is smooth and free from corrosion. If your not confident to check this take advise from a specialist. Air in the system will feel spongy as you press the pedal, then feel harder as the pressure rises. You may have air as well as a leaking master cylinder, if the fluid level fell to far. One things for certain, if you're losing fluid, it's going somewhere. When you find where its going you will have the answer. Good luck Mark

I'm interested in the full set of dash panels for pre facelift auto, and the dash top panel. Are they still available? Are they flocked ?

If you are just fitting the UEGO guage as a visual indication of the A/F ratio, you can leave both the white and blue wires disconnected. Make sure they cannot short to anything. The blue wire of the AEM UEGO Gauge is for connection to a computer. You can capture and record the A/F values for analysis, adjustment, interest or just because you can. Probably not very useful unless you are adjusting / re-mapping the vehicles fueling. I have a connector on mine that I can connect to a lap-top. The white wire is an analouge output that indicates the vehicles A/F ratio, in real time. The scaleing is be given in a table in the manual. This signal could be used for many things, including direct connection to an engine management system to provide closed loop control of the amount of fuel being delivered by the injectors. From the title of your post I assume this is what you are trying to do. The AEM UEGO Gauge outputs both signals as a voltage measured between the signal wire and the black wire (0V, Chassis , Ground, or whatever you chose to call it) From the information you have given on the greddy harness, it expects a A/F ratio signal that is differential. That is the A/F ratio signal is the voltage measured between the white wire and the grey wire. It does not measure it between a signal wire and ground. This type of system is generally used to eliminate noise that is present in the ground system. It may be possible to connect the grey wire to the vehicle 0V, as close to the 0V of the gauge as you can get it, but I would not recommend it for something as sensitive as the fueling of your engine. Without knowing the full data on the what the greddy harness is connected to, I would say the two are not directly compatable. You will probably need advise from someone who has fitted one, or direct from the manufacturer.

If I understand correctly you are saying the crackle only happens when the radio is off. The first thing you need to do is confirm the sound is coming from the speakers/stereo system. Disconnect the speakers from the amplifier or head unit and see if the noise still occurs. If it does stop it is likely that something is going wrong inside the amplifier or head unit. Your only real options are to take it to specialists (£££), Buy new units (£££), or find someone with some spare units who will allow you to try them for a while. Sorry that’s not very encouraging but without detailed, hands-on, knowedge of your system there isn’t much more advice that can be given. Mark

When I got my car the inner 21W lamps were wired as fog lights only. So either the bulb fail ECU has been frigged to work with one set of light or disabled. I shall investigate further.......... Thanks Mike